Ive got a good one for you jetting guys to try and figure out.
Posted August 04, 2002 - 03:13 PM
So, last week I was reading posts and there was a post about the throttle plate cracking due to slide hitting the top of the carb because the throttle stop was removed or cut to short. (I think it was a post by Brandon)
So with nothing to do this weekend I cut the throttle stop (per Bryan Hulse's recommendation in the tech section) to 9mm and that was no problem.
Then the next thing to do was take out the slide and check the throttle plate. So I took the top off the carb took the locking nut off and the adjustment screw out (what ever that does) and noted that it took 11 turns to get the adjustment screw out. Slid the throttle slide out and checked the plate. It looked great, no cracks, no chips, nothing.
Put the plate and slide back in carefully noting how I took it out. Put the adjustment screw back in (11 turns - although it might have been 1 more or less) and the lock screw.
(heres where it gets weird)
Put everything back together and it fired right up with the choke on. As soon as I turned the choke off it died. Kicked it, kicked it, kicked it (with my hand off the throttle) and it was acting like it was wanting to fire but it wouldnt light. So I pulled the plug and it was wet. Dried it off put it back in and it started first kick with the choke on. Turned the choke off and it died again. Kicked it, Kicked it, kicked it but no start. The plug was wet yet again.
So, I did the same thing yet a third time only this time after it started I held the throttle on and then turned the choke off. It kept running so I turned the idle up 2 complete turns and now it runs like a raped ape and purs like a kitten on idle just like it did before I checked the slide.
So what happend? I never touched the idle at all when checking the slide!
And why would the bike run great before but after pulling the slide out and putting it back in needed the idle turned up 2 turns?
This one has me baffled!
Posted August 04, 2002 - 04:30 PM
or idle fuel screw?? sounds like what you have done now it cracked the throttle to let the mixtur come back to what the screw from before was doing
Posted August 04, 2002 - 05:19 PM
Originally posted by MOmilkman:
Then the next thing to do was take out the slide and check the throttle plate. So I took the top off the carb took the locking nut off and the adjustment screw out (what ever that does) and noted that it took 11 turns to get the adjustment screw out.
There is a section in the manual about how to adjust the slide, that is what that screw is for. On multi-carb motors you would set your cables, then set slide height w/ that screw.
So it obviously adjusts the slide w/ respect to the pulley. That doesn't totally explain what happened to your idle adjustment, but it seems to me the two must be related.
It just occurred to me that you may want to check your TPS at this point...
Posted August 04, 2002 - 08:18 PM
Posted August 05, 2002 - 05:34 AM
I really dont think I put the plate in upside down.
The adjustment for the slide might be the culprit here. But since I have the thing back together and it runs good (or as good as before) then do I really need to get back into it and adjust that screw clockwise or counter-clockwise? Or should it be fine where its at?
I really hate to take it apart again. Im so sick of taking the tank, carb off I cant stand it anymore.
Thanks again guys.
Posted August 05, 2002 - 05:54 AM
It probably won't give you any trouble, but...
It will change the AP timing slightly, and as Hick said the TPS.
If you loosen your front brake & throttle on the handlebar and slide them over to the bend you should be able to get the carb out through the left side. Tank & side covers can stay in place. (assuming your grip end is open)
makes for 10 min. or less needle changes. Mains are even less.
Posted August 05, 2002 - 08:26 AM
Why in the world are you removing the tank to get the carb off the bike again
Procedure, Procedure, procedure....you were here when we first came up with it remember?
Take throttle cables loose at the grip, let cables hang loose, Remove Frame mounted Hot Start button (If Applicable) shut off and disconnect fuel line, loosten both carb boot clamps, rotate the carb to the left and remove....Disconnect cables from carb (only if necessary/work on bench)
Hmmmmmmm....Now you remember?
[ August 05, 2002: Message edited by: YAMAKAZE ]
Posted August 05, 2002 - 08:50 AM
I have the Clarke 3.3 on my bike. The sides of the tank hang low. I can see how you could do that with the stocker but I'd like to see you get your hands back in there to loosen the throttle cables with that baby on there!
And Im not actually removing it, just rotating it 90 deg to the left.
Now... supplied with this new info am I still allowed to come here and post?
BTW: Bill, (or anyone else) do you know if I am supposed to turn that slide adjuster screw clockwise or counter to get the bike to idle faster or slower?
[ August 05, 2002: Message edited by: MOmilkman ]
Posted August 06, 2002 - 03:38 AM
I know a lot of you have had that adjustment screw out so you could get your carb slide out to replace/check it.
Could someone give me some info on which way to turn it to get the bike to idle faster or slower?
Posted August 06, 2002 - 06:03 AM
Posted August 07, 2002 - 08:14 AM
Went home for lunch this afternoon, took off the top of the carb, turned out (counter-clockwise) the throttle slide adjustment screw 1 turn. Put it all back together and it idled really high! Which was exactly what I was hoping it would do. Turned down the idle and now it is right back where it was.
What did I do wrong? When I tightened the lock nut down on the adjustment screw I used a 7mm nut driver and when it got down to the point of being tight the adjuster turned with the lock screw.
So after I turned the adjustment screw back eleven turns the tightening of the lock nut turned it back 1 whole turn to 10 turns.
[ August 07, 2002: Message edited by: MOmilkman ]