Switch for TPS
Posted April 11, 2009 - 09:36 AM
Posted April 11, 2009 - 10:39 AM
I installed spdp switch for now, still cant figure how to have the return voltage back to the CDI work with that switch. It is to cold outside to do any testing. William1 let me know if you come up with any ideas.
LOL, I've been letting you d the leg work....
Went for a ride the other day, It sure felt good to get out. Like I said in a earlier post small difference in performance and much less surging. To switch the TPS off you also have to shut the Engine off to reset the CDI.
So you've found you need to shut the bike off to 'switch modes' with the TPS? If you flip the switch while riding, what happens? Certainly there must be some effect as the variable voltage has gone away. Have you found you must be in CDI 'limp mode' to make this useful?
Posted April 12, 2009 - 12:21 PM
Posted April 12, 2009 - 12:30 PM
Posted April 12, 2009 - 04:44 PM
Let me see if I can help. You want the full power to go through a resistor (about 6 K ohm) from the yellow lead to go the blue wire and at the same time, taking the TPS pot out of the loop, right? This will tell the engine the throttle is at WOT. To do this, you'll have to have either a double pole, double throw switch or relay. One side disconnects the blue wire from the TPS, the other connects the blue to the yellow with the resistor in line.
Is this what you wanted to do? If a DPDT switch cannot be sourced, the bar switch could energize a relay and the relay could easily do the disconnect/jump with the resistor. You want to do it on this side as if the system had a problem, you'd want it to be in in regular 'WR' mode plus the fact that 99%, you'd be in this mode anyways.
Posted April 14, 2009 - 03:30 PM
Posted April 14, 2009 - 04:22 PM
I have now gone seven days since my last cigarette (Export A Green).
Posted April 17, 2009 - 06:43 AM
Posted April 17, 2009 - 07:54 AM
Cruising along 50-60 mpg no stutter,jerking,hunting or surging, mes very happy:banana:
Is it switched or un-plugged?
Posted April 17, 2009 - 09:44 AM
It is switched
So I've been following this thread but can't tell if you have shorted the voltage back to the CDI or not?
If not, is it "switch on the fly" or do you need to shut the bike off for a successful switch as mentioned above?
Posted April 17, 2009 - 01:00 PM
Posted April 20, 2009 - 07:50 AM
I still have not completed the switching to allow the voltage to return to the CDI, But that is the theory. When the switch is in off position the voltage will return to the CDI and hopefully it will allow for switching on the fly. Not that this is relevant but I installed soft foam in my seat to save my ass. ( what a difference ) Guts Racing.
I've had a soft GUTS seat for years and love it:thumbsup:
OK so it's 1. shutdown 2. switch 3. ride.... I think I can handle that for now.
Posted April 28, 2009 - 07:02 AM
Posted April 28, 2009 - 09:15 AM
I am going to have to buy a switch. I will take apart a couple on bikes I have hear to see what the contact choices are to determine what one I should get.
Posted April 28, 2009 - 09:45 AM
Posted April 28, 2009 - 03:27 PM
Posted April 28, 2009 - 05:14 PM
Posted July 14, 2009 - 06:46 AM
Throttle Black Blue/Black
Idle .62v -4.2v
1/4 1.16v -3.71v
1/2 1.95v -2.98v
3/4 2.78v -2.27v
WOT 3.51v -1.32v
The other connection used was the Yellow. I am hoping I only have to be concerned with the Yellow and Black wire. It will make switching and total amount of wiring simpler.
My first series of tests will be riding the bike and confirming where exactly on the throttle the issue occurs. Then I'll select resistor to emulate the TPS at a slightly wider throttle opening and retest with the emulator. The goal being to have a the CDI provide enough ignition advance to make the bike perform but not so much to induce detonation. I plan to use slightly aged 91 octane fuel (3 weeks old) to make the test as real world as possible. I expect performance at idle and just off of idle to be poor and I think that will be an acceptable trade off. Anyways, this mod should be switchable on the fly and only needed when cruising so having to hit a switch for 20 miles of easy smooth riding is worth it.
Stock ride testing is done. TPS stutter mostly occurs at about 1/3 throttle. So I am now going to figure out what resistors to use to provide a TPS signal of about 2.8 volts. This will emulate the throttler being at about 3/4's, which is sort of what I was hoping for. This will need about a 3.5 K-ohm resistor. For the Blue/black wire, I'll need a 2.25 K-ohm if it turns out I need one there too. LOL, I just checked, none of either in stock here so off to Radio Shack I go...
Posted July 14, 2009 - 10:36 AM