IS it posiable? 92 DR350 Kick to Electric start?


13 replies to this topic
  • flyboyn2144p

Posted 19 February 2009 - 05:37 AM

#1

I am very Mechanicaly inclined and I have went through sugery on both knees and me dry humping the seat trying to get this bike started is killing my knees. I have cleaned the carb, new plug (NGK), set the vales (.003 in & .004ex), Added a Super Trapp Exhaust (Getting ready to do a Yoshi RS3 Upgrade), Need air filter yet....

I am having a heck of a time. Need a shot of starter fluid to get her to pop 2 seperate times with decock to load then the third time she takes off. I am at SEA LEVEL! 45'! The bike has 22K mi and had been sitting but went through. I do not remember the jet sizes when I went through the carb. I set the needle 1 1/2 like it was. I dont want to have to add sarter fluid every time I start it. Is there any tricks. My 84 KX250 Is not this hard!! (for sale BTW)!

I would like to know if it is possiable to add the electric start system. I have no problems with custom electrical and schmatics nor. changing flywheel and covers..

Would love some help..

Nathan
JAX BEach

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  • ProCycle

Posted 19 February 2009 - 08:38 AM

#2

Have you done a compression or leak-down test? Low compression can make it tough to start when cold.

Electric start can be done but it would be easier and less expensive to sell it and buy a bike that already has the e-start.

You would still have to solve the starting problem. Otherwise you'll just have a drained battery and an aching knee by the time you get it going.

  • flyboyn2144p

Posted 19 February 2009 - 10:40 AM

#3

I am trying to find the adaptor for my car compression tester from Sun Pro that will fit my bike. Plus I am also trying to find a freakin spark plug socket that will fit.. Its so narrow. Any help there??

  • flyboyn2144p

Posted 19 February 2009 - 10:42 AM

#4

What if I wasto find a 650 Motor ready to go.. Or did they make a 350 with Electric start?? I just got this bike for fixing a fellows SV650.. Free with complete bike and title..

  • johanssont

Posted 19 February 2009 - 10:55 AM

#5

DR 350 SE was made from 94-99 with the electric kick start. Shouldn't be impossible to retrofit your bike but it might be cheaper in the long run to sell your bike and buy an SE. Check your valves, they can cause hard starting as well if they are out of adjustment.

  • Bob Onit

Posted 19 February 2009 - 11:45 AM

#6

am also trying to find a freakin spark plug socket that will fit.. Its so narrow. Any help there??

If you don't have the proper metric wrench then a deep 3/4" socket for a 3/8" drive will do the job.

When the 350's are tuned properly (carb is very important) they will start on 1-3 kicks cold.
You should even be able to start it with you're hand on the kicker if it's warm and you're on the correct stroke. :lol:

  • jcalis

Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:39 PM

#7

It's not easy to convert to e-start, the engine cases are different. You could do it if you could find a replacement engine or lower end. Best bet is to sell the kicker and buy an e-start model.

Spark plug is easy to reach using the cheap plug tool in the stock tool kit. You can buy a replacement at most MC shops for less the $10 if you do not have it.

When you cannot start the bike does it flood easily? If it does, replace the vacuum petcock. It is probably leaking fuel down the vacuum line into the carb throat. It will sometimes leak enough fuel into the engine to thin out the oil. Change the oil if it smells like gasoline!

  • getoutside

Posted 19 February 2009 - 07:56 PM

#8

If you don't have the proper metric wrench then a deep 3/4" socket for a 3/8" drive will do the job.

When the 350's are tuned properly (carb is very important) they will start on 1-3 kicks cold.
You should even be able to start it with you're hand on the kicker if it's warm and you're on the correct stroke. :lol:


:worthy: Not on my bike ever.... it starts just fine but I can't even kick it over with just shoes on need my boots.....even warm. If you can kick it over with your hand then I'd bet your compression is low.

  • Bob Onit

Posted 19 February 2009 - 09:10 PM

#9

:worthy: Not on my bike ever.... it starts just fine but I can't even kick it over with just shoes on need my boots.....even warm. If you can kick it over with your hand then I'd bet your compression is low.


Nope, plenty of compression. The bike only has 3,000 miles on it.
I have a 250 and a 350 and when they're setup right they start very easily :lol:

Heres a link to a video that another member posted of hand start of a DR350.



  • flyboyn2144p

Posted 20 February 2009 - 05:30 AM

#10

Thanks all for the help..

As per the answer of "does it flood when starting" As far as I can tell yes! i changed the plug when I first got it and drained 3 quarts of oil gas mix. now have 2 quarts that drained 2 days later (same filter) that was grey as hell and then added 2 new quarts to try to get all the garbage out of the case. So I am going to assume that with the vacuume Line that would be a yes as to the flowing into the carb. I will pull it and turn the fuel on and see what happens. There is no leakage when I pull the tank off, nothing drips out of it.

I can almost hand turn it over. I am 5'10 and 280 so I am not a small guy. Still have not done a compression test. However I am in ful agrememnt with the fellow who said boots only. I have 2 pairs of shoes that I can kick it over with. I tried with a pair of beach runners amd 3 kicks I was done!!!

Is there people looking for the DR 350 Kick start?? Posable trade for Electric start? My knees cant take it. NE FL IS where I am

  • TN2Wheeler

Posted 22 February 2009 - 04:01 PM

#11

I agree with others that if you MUST have the magic button, it'd be far cheaper to just sell your kick start bike and buy a 94 or newer model.

However, a properly setup DR350 is not difficult to start. Mine has a pumper on it with stock jetting and the idle mixture screw at about 2 turns. It will start after 3 or 4 kicks at 25 degrees. When warm, it only takes one easy kick. I've never tried it but I suspect I could start it by hand.

BUT, there is a proper technique. Cold or warm NEVER open the throttle! I've found that in colder weather (<40 degrees) it starts and stays running better if I flood it first - that is, turn the petcock on and lean it over until a little gas runs out of the float bowl overflow. Pull the choke on and kick it through slowly a couple of times with the switch off. Then switch on, full choke, no throttle, set the compression release and rotate until it clicks out and it's usually idling after 3 or 4 kicks. Above 50 degrees, the flooding step is not necessary.

IMO one of the biggest problems with starting these bikes is that user modifications to "improve performance" (particularly cutting the airbox) tend to work against easy starting.

  • web037

Posted 22 February 2009 - 08:48 PM

#12

How did it start before you added the Supertrap and how many plates do you have on the muffler? When I first bought my 350 it had a supertrap with 4 plates and it would only start by pulling it behind a truck. I cut it down to 2 plates and it got to where I could occasionally get it to start by kick starting. I traded the suppertrap for one of Jessies modified stock pipes, went back to the stock jetting and it pretty much starts on the first kick, without choke if the temp is above 48F.

I have also learned that how you kick it is extremely important. If you slowly push the kick starter through it's cycles you will see that there are two distinct places where you will fill compression and there is not an even spacing between them. You have to kick from just past the point of compression; press down slowly till you fill compression, pop and release the compression release and slowly push down the rest of the way, let up about 3/4 on the kicker and slowly press again. You should feel compression again before you reach the bottom, if you do, pop and release the compression release one more time, press all the way down, bring it back to the top and kick hard without opening the throttle. If you don't feel that second compression point before the kicker reaches the bottom your on the wrong cycle, press through one extra time.

  • flyboyn2144p

Posted 23 February 2009 - 05:48 AM

#13

wOW A WEALTH OF INFO

Web I was trying to follow what all you were saying.. i will have to re read here in a few,,

I have my air/ fuel mix set at 1 1/8= 1 1/4 I think maybe I need to turn it out to 2? With the supper trapp there is 7 rings... It has started with them and idled after a few (45 seconds or so) she dies. I dont get fuel out of res.. Pri flows like a river! Does the RES only open with vacuume>? I think the Petcock has been changed out! it does not look like the one on my service manual. I also noticed that my plug was loose and there was some blow by plus it had a heavy fuel smell(new plug plenty of spark when tested just to see if CDI or coil was bad).. I am going today to get the socket wrench from Cycle Gear for the DR line. Seeing as how none of my $800 MaC Sockets will get in the slender hole.. I am a Diesel and GSE Mechanic also. However the carbs cleaned and I dont have any fuel comming out of the overflow at all because i set the float to shut off per service manual specs.. I will try to get a good seat with the plug because I dont think it was in there good to start with, with the previous owner either. Then see what she does.. Will keep everyone updated... Thanks again for all the help!

  • flyboyn2144p

Posted 23 February 2009 - 01:57 PM

#14

Got the DR running today. Idles ok.. not as stable as I would like but it all is not going to happen in one day!

Tried to start her with the stand up 2-3 times through with lever pulled and then power stroke and only a pop!

I put the stand down and chocked her, pulled the de-comp and kicked her through 2-4 times i am no sure. Then stood up and felt where the compression was and pushed through a coupple of times and off it took on maybe the 3-4th time. I did however hear some valve chatter from the ex side and I had just set them at .004 (.003-.005mm) so I figuered a happy meadium would work. Have valve chatter.. ERR any ideas?

Other then that she wrode fine, a lot of oil smoke from the outside of the case that was trying to burn off. clean clear exhaust. I so want rid of the frapping Super trapp, noisy! I have a Micron Street exhaust I am thinking of putting on or an old Yoshi RS-3.. I didnt have a lot of top end but it pulled like a beast at 8-9K! If I am thinking rite that was second and third gear! It did die on me when I went into the woods maybe 20 minutes from when I got her started. I kicked maybe 15-20 times with tons of compression and she finaly started again after I let her cool for a minute!

So HUGE THANKS TO ALL OF WHOM HELPED!! I am almost there! Next is the Uni Filter and exhaust!!

BTW if any one needs a plug wrench that works very well and for cheap Cycle Gear had a 10,12,14mm for $6.99 It breaks down like the factory origonals and is made realy nice. Dennis Kirk the same one is $21.99

Nathan




 
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