Posted February 12, 2003 - 06:42 PM
1)Molybdenum disulfide oil
2)Lightweight lithium-soap base grease
3)Molybdenum disulfide grease
ps,should or should not remove Polylube (stringcheese) before greasing? Any input is very much appreciated.
00DRZ400E sold 2/2/03
03WR450FR picked up 2/3/03 Can't ride, wont stop snowing.
Posted February 12, 2003 - 09:18 PM
Posted February 12, 2003 - 09:25 PM
Posted February 13, 2003 - 05:08 PM
I went to 3 Yamaha dealers to get some and they all acted like I was crazy. Even the mechanics said they never used it. Kind of wierd since the WR manual calls it out, and also molybdenum based oil.
The local Suzuki dealer mechanic had a tube of Suzuki branded molybdenum disulfate in his toolbox. He squeezed out enough for me to re-lube the Yamaha and ordered me up a tube.
I personally like useing what the manufacturer calls out. If I could remove the bearings and clean out all the old grease, I wouldn't have a problem switching, but I'll never take a chance on mixing different types. Besides, this grease is high tech, high temp, and stays where you put it.
So if you want molybdenum, go to Suzuki. Let's see, blue + yellow = purple? Or is that brown?
Posted February 13, 2003 - 05:49 PM
Posted February 13, 2003 - 07:00 PM
Posted February 13, 2003 - 07:48 PM
03 WR450 2/3/03- 1st one #0641.All stock for now.have carbon fiber front disk cover,rear shark fin & caliper guard on order.also alum. works connection frame guards.
Posted February 13, 2003 - 11:18 PM
Posted February 14, 2003 - 12:44 AM
that bike made me lazy.
Posted February 14, 2003 - 06:31 AM
Also, it may sound weird, but I bought Walmart branded Lithium soap base grease in a cartridge tube and it has been working out really nicely for a few years. The grease is light brown / clear so it almost matches the stuff that comes in the bike (if you can see the microscopic amount of grease that they put in the steering head).
Posted February 14, 2003 - 07:00 AM
Posted February 14, 2003 - 10:23 AM
The problem isn't that the grease goes away, it's that the grease gets contaminated with dirt and water. Just shoving more grease in won't really do much and it might damage the seals from the pressure on the inside.
Lithium water-proof grease on all the seals and a light touch with the pressure washer and the grease should be good for close to a season. I ride HS and XC up here. Typically there are 3 water crossings (usually over the pegs) per lap with about 5 laps on each HS. That is a lot of water, mud, crud and my bearings still look pretty clean and greased at the end of the year.
I leave the Polylube in the swingarm and I do mine once per year whether they need it or not.
Posted February 15, 2003 - 04:59 AM
Many time's it is just soap.
The bearings in the suspension and steering don't ever make full rotations but work back and forth on one side. This action displaces the lube wear you need it most.
ANY GOOD SYNTHETIC MARINE TYPE GREASE WILL WORK GREAT!
My zuk has grease zerks but the only way to get the grease in, is to loosen the nuts on the side and have someone move the suspension while you add the grease.
I don't know why the factory is so stingy with the grease but it isn't a bad idea to remove all the linkage and joints ounce a year and add a dab with you finger.
That marine type wheel bearing grease is great for wheel bearings to.
Just my 2 cents