Weeping coolant clarification question

8 replies to this topic
  • 2DTrail

Posted February 08, 2009 - 11:59 AM


Hi all. Thanks for all the great info on the site. I have a new to me 06 wr450 which I have ridden approximately 3x. I notice that on the first cold start there is small coolant drip from the weep hole. After riding all day and numerous starts there is no drip and all and the weep hole is totally dry. I bought the parts to change out the seals, bearing and shaft but was wondering if I am premature and worrying too much. Should i wait till I have a steady drip before replacing everything or do it now? I'm not losing any volume of coolant and oil is clear. Thanks in advance.


  • sabella

Posted February 08, 2009 - 02:55 PM


from FAQ's hope this helps

"Q: There's a little hole that dribbles coolant out when the bike is cold, but then it stops. What's that all about?
A: That's the weep hole designed to let you know when it's time to change out the water pump shaft and seals. It happens to all WR's eventually and is a fairly simple repair. It is designed this way so you are alerted to the problem prior to it becoming a major issue. The p/n's for the repair parts are as follows:

1. SHAFT, IMPELLER - 5GR-12458-00-00
2. OIL SEAL - 93109-11073-00
3. OIL SEAL,SD-TYPE - 93102-12321-00
4. BEARING - 93306-00105-00

  • matt4x4

Posted February 09, 2009 - 06:22 AM


Well, it's only going to get worse, personally - I would repair it, you'll have to eventually anyways.

  • 2DTrail

Posted February 09, 2009 - 07:51 AM


Thanks for the info, I guess it was just wishful thinking that I didn't have to do it yet. Have the parts already, so I'll just go ahead and quit whining about it! :)

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  • matt4x4

Posted February 09, 2009 - 09:34 AM


Or just wait until you need to change the oil - a few hours isn't going to kill it.

  • Dube2

Posted February 09, 2009 - 02:46 PM


it's pretty easy. Just crack open a coldy, clean off the bench and set the boobtube in the garage to FUEL TV. Set the bike on the kick stand. Drain the oil, remove the header pipe, kick starter and guide plate if you have one. Remove the side case cover. Make a list of parts/pieces from the yamaha website and call yer local dealer for availibility. I did mine and ended up replacing every seal I got my hands on while the cover was off. Spent about $25 in parts and put her back together piece by piece. Also, replaced the header bolts as they seem to be a little oxidized. Oh ya, one of the threads on my oil filter cover were buggered up from the get go. I just babied it on each oil change, so while the cover was off, I retapped each thread. Just to clean it up. No issues now and that was about 2.5 years ago.

I bet Yam will charge a grip for that? Good Luck

  • 2DTrail

Posted February 13, 2009 - 05:46 PM


Thanks for the info, 1 last question, how long should it take? Reasonably competent at following directions!


  • honyam83

Posted February 14, 2009 - 08:15 AM


It took me about two and a half hours. But that was being very meticulous. It's very easy though. Good luck, I especially like the bit about the "coldy" that's a must.

  • tarmac_terrorist

Posted February 14, 2009 - 09:51 AM


started my seal swap last night, but the sodding tool fairy has stopped knicking my 10mm socket and has now targeted my 12mm spanner. Spent over an hour looking for the 12mm but cant find it. Pos was definitely in my toolbox.:lol:

Does the manifold/header have to come off? I cant see why it needs lifted away. The manual states to remove the header, but it does not look like the header fouls the rhs crankcase cover?


eta, for an 07 btw


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