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Have you tested the battery? Have you checked the connections? Have you quick charged the battery? If you quick charge the stock batteries they will fail fairly quickly, max charge rate is 3 amps for one hour. You have given us very little to go on here. WR Dave

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I've had my 08 wr450 for a year now my bike and my battery seems to be dead,it will kick start but no e-start any suggestions. thanks

Do you have a multimeter. If so charge the battery and make a note of the beginning voltage and the time it takes to charge. If the voltage is low and the battery doesn't take very long to charge it is probably bad (Battery Ah divided by charging A give a good approximate of how long a fully discharge battery should take to charge). Then once it is charged hit the button and watch the voltage. If the voltage drops really low (below 10V) the battery is probably bad.

Once the bike is started you can test that the charge circuit is working by reving the bike and making sure the voltage of the battery rises and falls with the revs.

I'm going to say the either battery is probably bad, a connection is loose or a fuse is blown.

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Quick question for JoeT.

could I put two 2.5s in parralle? lets say, I buy a 2.5ah and later decide that it doesn't have enough power for me. can I just order a second 2.5 and strap them together??

Note: I guess they would have to be ballanced first, maybe with a resistor, or just get them charged to a similar voltage..

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could I put two 2.5s in parallel? lets say, I buy a 2.5ah and later decide that it doesn't have enough power for me. can I just order a second 2.5 and strap them together??

Note: I guess they would have to be balanced first, maybe with a resistor, or just get them charged to a similar voltage..

Yes you can do this...that is basically what he is doing to make his 5 amp battery. And no need to balance them.:crazy:

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I want to thank everyone for there great input.:crazy:

I just ordered the 5ah for my wr450. The napa battery i put in last year is dead and it had been on a trickle all winter. The local honda shop (my only choice close to me) wants $120 for a Yuasa and even on line there over $80. If i can get 4 yrs out of this battery than I'm money ahead and having some experience with these type of batteries i think it will be money well spent.

Don

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wr450Oregon-your battery will be going out today, should be there monday/tuesday (sometimes it gets there monday because they move it on the weekend, some times it takes longer cause it doesn't move on the weekend).

bezeer-yours left last night.

Demo_Slug-You can put 2 2.5Ah in parallel, it is not as elegant of a solution as just using a 5Ah. The two inside cells in on 2.5Ah (the non post cells) are not actually electrically connected to two inside cells of the other 2.5Ah. It shouldn't be much of an issue though, as you are asking the cells to work half as hard as they do in a 2.5Ah.

You are right that when you connect the two 2.5Ah batteries you want them at close to the same voltage. If one is at full charge and the other is empty the full one will dump a lot of current in to the empty one. Putting the batteries individually on a trickle charger overnight and then connecting would be a good solution.

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they are already encased in heat shrink. :crazy: heat shrink is great BTW. factory looks are over rated.

really, do you think the big battery guys wouldn't be in this if there was a big fat profit margin. A molded case is the sort thing that only makes sense if you are going to make 1K of something. you ( not you but, "we" ) are getting new tech at DIY price.

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we are getting new tech at DIY price

Not really, the TurnTech 2.5amp battery is about 10 bucks to much when compared to another company that will build the same battery using the same cells.

If you want to truly do it your self, you can buy and build the battery for about 45 bucks.

I placed an order on friday for everything I need (45 bucks). Once I get everything, I will do a write up with addition to some links ?

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Hey guy's I'm all for DIY, but lets not do go to the extent of running down another guy's product for no reason. This is all for information purposes, but I will delete this thread if it starts to be a bashing contest. Sorry, just want this to stay civil and respectful. WR Dave

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Why do they need to be encased?

Why plastic cases, basically for 3 reasons. 1 it is expected/looks good. 2. Seals the battery. 3. Makes the connection with the bike more stable.

Plastics cases should be available mid next week. They are suppose to arrive on Monday.

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What's the difference between the older style which I think I'm getting and the new style?

My only concern is the battery shorting out on the frame.

I could care less about looks.

The way I have it figured is that I'll just tie rap the things in.

Pictures on the website of installations would be neato.

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Pictures will be updated early next week.

Both the one you will receive and the ones in plastics have the same connectors. Don't thick that there is much of a chance of either shorting out on the frame, of course every bikes battery box is slightly different so your make or model may vary.

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so i put my battery on a maintainer it went to charged in about 4 sec. so i hooked it up to my sons 06 wr450 and it didn't crank it over so does that mean battery is no good? thanks again im not too good with electrical

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Not necessarily, Tile Guy. This is a pretty simple thing to diagnose, but you NEED a voltmeter to do it properly. Actually a known good battery will tell you a lot too. If you have another bike, swap them out and see if it will start. If it starts battery is dead, if it still doesn't, you have another problem.

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