Newbie doh! time.
Posted January 31, 2009 - 11:15 AM
Im having problems with an oil change on an 07 wr450. Draining the oil was easy, but getting the oil inbetween the min / max points on the dip stick seems impossible. One minute im nearly there at max, so i add a tiny amount of oil, fire it up for ten seconds re-check and oil has vanished (below min) or appeared (above max). I've litteraly spent all afternoon trying to set the right oil level. What am i doing wrong? Im using the kick stand not a proper stand. For sure this is embarrasing lol. All testing was done with warm oil. The filter has not been touched. One thing was noted, was that when there was to much oil in the engine, the cylinder head was abolutely quite.
Do i need to remove bodywork/fuel tank to remove the spark plug? How do I connect the supplied plug puller to my torque wrench or do I need another plug puller?
The coolant weep hole is leaking. I guess the seals need replacing. Are any specialist tools required to bleed the coolant system or it a matter of filling the radiator right to the top?
Thank god this site exists.
Posted January 31, 2009 - 01:22 PM
For sure this is embarrasing lol.
No prob tarmac!
You did drain both the engine and oil tank didn't you?
There are two separate drain bolts to remove, one under the rhs of the engine, and the other one sort of under the filler plug.
I always drain all the oil with the bike sitting perfectly upright for 10 minutes.
I then put the recommended amount in (0.95 litre without filter change from memory) and run the bike for a few minutes. I then switch it off and leave it sit for a minute and check the oil level with the dipstick.
You need to do this with the bike on a stand, perfectly upright, not leaning over on it's side-stand.
There is also a check-bolt that can be removed under the gear lever which will help you to get the level spot-on.
I always do.
Do i need to remove bodywork/fuel tank to remove the spark plug?
I use the supplied plug spanner and "feel" (experience!) to torque it by hand.
How do I connect the supplied plug puller to my torque wrench or do I need another plug puller?
You could buy a different plug spanner and use and extension bar to reach your torque wrench up above the frame if you were really keen.
Hope that helps.
Posted January 31, 2009 - 02:55 PM
Posted February 01, 2009 - 07:45 AM
And when putting the dipstick back in to measure level, I just drop it in...don't thread it in.
These engines, with oil tanks in the frame, are basically dry sump engines. I have a Yamaha Stratoliner...1900 cc V-twin, dry sump engine...same deal. I watched a rather detailed Yamaha training video on checking oil levels. The video showed that it's very important to run the bike at idle for a minute or so, shut it off w/o revving it first and immediately check level via the dipstick. Riders who would fire the engine, run it for a short period, rev it a couple of times, shut off and check, were driving themselves nutz because the level was varying all over the place. This would be like if you pulled up to your garage and shut it off...opened the door...fired up and rode in...blipped the throttle...shut off and checked. The oil level would vary all over the place because the short run/throttle blips were pumping oil out of the tank.
Conversely, if you don't run the bike for a period of time, oil can drain down out of the tank and it will appear to be low on the dipstick.
Posted February 01, 2009 - 06:36 PM
Oil amount is 1.2 litres after filter change.
Level bike, fill oil, then idle bike for about 3 minutes ,shut off, wait for 30 seconds or you will be covered with oil,then check level on dipstick if it is overfull wait, it will drain off very slowly,meanwhile open checkbolt near gearlever, the oil level must also be at this hole when the dipstick says its full ,
If not add some oil through the left crankcase filler hole and let excess drain out check hole.
If dipstick is low by now repeat whole procedure .
Oil must be full at both locations (dipstick and checkbolt)
Posted February 02, 2009 - 07:35 PM