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Loose spokes - can/should I tighten them myself without a torque wrench?


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I was cleaning my 2007 te450 the other day getting ready for spring when i noticed at least 2 or 3 loose spokes on my rear wheel.

I do not own (or know anyone to borrow from) any spoke torque wrenches - should I attempt to tighten them myself or should I leave it for my bike mechanic to fix?

I was thinking of just using vice grips to tighten the suckers, but thought best to ask the experts! (aka you guys!) I wouldn't know how tight to go though, so again, maybe it's best left for a professional??

I live in Toronto - so any leads on purchasing a well-priced torque wrench set is appreciated.

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You can either use one of those little special spoke wrench just use a small adjustable wrench. Give a couple of the tight spokes a tap with the head of the wrench and listen for the tone they make then tighten the loose ones until they sound the same. Not real scientific or difficult but I bet if you took a torque wrench to them after you tightened that way they would be really really close.

I've been doing it for years that way and never had a problem.

Cheers!

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No real need for a torque wrench. Just snug them starting with the loosest. Don't overtighten. Tap the spokes with wrench. Try to get an even tone as you go around. The loose ones will give a dull thud, the tight ones will give a "ring"

Make sure your wheel is true when your done.

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yes you should...torque wrench would be silly now, threads are dirty,etc...no vise grips! like stated, tap spokes with a flat blade screwdriver and listen for a "ping"...the loose ones will have a dull thud...the nipples don't have to be tightened to the point of being stripped/rounded either...no more than 1/8-1/4 turn at a time...remember from the top it is to the left to tighten because the nipples are inserted from the inside of the rim, so right from the inside is left from the top...have fun.

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Tapping mid spoke is is the most common, but use a spoke wrench, most bike shops, or royal dist,south of Barrie,will get one without the proper tools they will round off. I,m just north of the city, were do you ride, got mine te 450 in the house, Chris

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Best safest way to do this is to start at the valve stem. The 1st spoke tighten 1/8 turn only count 4 spokes tighten 1/8 turn count 4 spokes tighten 1/8 turn. Do this for a complete lap around the wheel. When you get back to the valve stem then go to #2 spoke repeat this process, then go to spoke #3 complete lap then #4. The reason for doing it this way is so you will not shift the rim if you tightened each spoke it will shift the rim. Doing it this way you only touch 9 spokes in a complete lap around the wheel. After doing this a series of times then go to the extra loose spokes then snug them the tension you have on the other spokes. Also helps to back off on the spoke before giving it an 1/8 turn reason is might feel tight but not just some crud or corrosion going on. Good practice also is to spray spoke nipples with WD-40 then ride it around the block to force it centrifically into the threads. Later George

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Thanks for all the tips guys - greatly appreciated as always!!

I,m just north of the city, were do you ride, got mine te 450 in the house, Chris

My favorite place to ride is the Ganny! (Ganaraska forest) just 45 mins east of me. But I hear there are some great riding spots up in Simcoe County near Barrie - we should definitely hook up for some rides this season!

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Yes georges technique is best, especially part about loosening. When loosening, have spoke nipple at 12 oklock. The dirt will fall out as it dislodges, instead of sitting in there.

Also, tapping for sound is common but misleading. I've abandoned it as a good way to tell tension, because some spokes touch where they cross, others don't. They will sound way different, even at the same tension. A better way is to grasp the spoke near the middle, and tug back and forth. A loose one will move obviously, while a snug one will display its tension.:banana:

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these are all good ways, but i still belive in using a torque wrench, 45-48 in/lbs. these are available through alot of different mail order houses, maybe even at the tt store. they usually sell for around 90.00- 100.00 dollars, they are really the nuts because you dont have to guess at the tension and worry about breaking hubs. if you are going to be playing with motor cycles, long term it would be worth the investment to own one.

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these are all good ways, but i still belive in using a torque wrench, 45-48 in/lbs.

While these are certainly "the bomb" for new bikes and building new wheels, they are next to useless on a well-used machine. And, anytime you tighten one-after-another, regardless of the method, you pull your rim all over the place, like George said. It's amazing how much a wheel moves from one turn of the spoke nipple. Get a truing stand and a dial indicator it's an eye-opening experiance.:banana:

Also, a "tight-spoked" wheel is not as strong as one that is snug but not real tight. Fact.

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While on the subject,never use safty wire on the spokes to tie them together. Some Racing Organizations require this but use the small Zip Tie's instead. First reason why not to when checking your spokes you can't tell if they are loose as they are tied together, second will cut the crap out of yourself checking them. By using Zip Ties if you smack the wheel Taco it the tie will pop then you know at least thoes spokes are loose. This works well in a long race like the Baja's and in the Dez. We have 1 pit guy who's job it is to get a good visual on the wheels when the bike comes in if sees a broken Zip Tie has spoke wrench then tightens them, beats having a wheel come apart 100 miles from nowhere. Later George

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I am from S.C. and am SCORRA member,race cma at the ganny enduro,if looking to head out in spring maybe get a ride , in April doing Turkey point if the snow goes way,if you want to ride respond and we can touch base, Chris

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What does that have to do with spokes?

I am from S.C. and am SCORRA member,race cma at the ganny enduro,if looking to head out in spring maybe get a ride , in April doing Turkey point if the snow goes way,if you want to ride respond and we can touch base, Chris
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While on the subject,never use safty wire on the spokes to tie them together. Some Racing Organizations require this but use the small Zip Tie's instead. First reason why not to when checking your spokes you can't tell if they are loose as they are tied together, second will cut the crap out of yourself checking them. By using Zip Ties if you smack the wheel Taco it the tie will pop then you know at least thoes spokes are loose. This works well in a long race like the Baja's and in the Dez. We have 1 pit guy who's job it is to get a good visual on the wheels when the bike comes in if sees a broken Zip Tie has spoke wrench then tightens them, beats having a wheel come apart 100 miles from nowhere. Later George

I've done the tightening sequence George showed me and it works perfect!!! Wheel stayed nice and true..... Back in my day (no zip ties) I would twist the safety wire from the "inside" of the cross point of the spokes, leaving the outside less likely to cut myself. That way I would only cut the snot out of myself while cleaning or whatever instesd of cutting the crap out of myself....

Happy trails.......

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks again for everyone's input... just to be SURE before ordering a wrench set, is the size I need 6.8 (for front and rear) for my 2007 te450 (stock wheel)?

I didn't get a manual with mine (bought used) and I can't seem to find the spoke nipple size in the shop manual I downloaded...

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  • 7 years later...

This is an old thread , but as was replied about the torque wrench , they're only really good on a brand new spoke set , once the bike/wheels get some time and use the corrosion and grit makes them almost useless . It takes more torque to break the nipples loose even if the spoke is loose , gives false readings.

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