Damaged shock body 2008 YZ450f


35 replies to this topic
  • Firewalker

Posted January 26, 2009 - 09:35 PM

#21

you want to buy a thread file. then match it up to the proper thread pitch, that will work way better than using a triangle file.

  • Wes Woodin

Posted January 27, 2009 - 02:12 PM

#22

you want to buy a thread file. then match it up to the proper thread pitch, that will work way better than using a triangle file.

True, a thread file would work better, however there weren't any threads to filed. they were stripped. it just needed straightening out in order to get the rings off.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 27, 2009 - 02:24 PM

#23

Then a flat flat would have done as well?

Really, a thread file is a much neater, easier approach. Most of them will cut or be guided by 4-8 rows of threads at a time, depending on the thread pitch, so the undamaged threads adjacent to the bad spot become a sort of jig to restore the damage ones with.

Once the adjuster ring is off, replace it if it is damaged itself, then add enough spacers at one end of the spring or other to move the ring to a new, undamaged area in the threads.

  • Wes Woodin

Posted January 27, 2009 - 06:49 PM

#24

Then a flat flat would have done as well?

Really, a thread file is a much neater, easier approach. Most of them will cut or be guided by 4-8 rows of threads at a time, depending on the thread pitch, so the undamaged threads adjacent to the bad spot become a sort of jig to restore the damage ones with.

Once the adjuster ring is off, replace it if it is damaged itself, then add enough spacers at one end of the spring or other to move the ring to a new, undamaged area in the threads.

Well when you're trying to ride and have 3 hours to get the job done, you do what you have to do. In a lot of cases when you are short of time you have to improvise. That is what I did in this case. And no a flat file would not have worked in this case. It's always easier to find a flaw, or point out a way that would be better when it's not you in the situation. It's all good! I got the job done within the time constraints and went riding. I really do appreciate all of the feedback and hope this doesn't happen to anyone. I ended up with a great result. Thanks again!

  • Ga426owner

Posted January 28, 2009 - 11:10 AM

#25

I use the Enzo Tehnica Preload ring instead of the top lock ring. Works great, easy to get to for quick changes.
http://www.enzoracing.com/parts.html


bingo - this eleviates the whole stupid issue and makes sag setting easy. :banana:
BTW....I believe KYB makes the shock not yamaha:moon:

  • Beaz

Posted January 31, 2009 - 04:12 PM

#26

bingo - this eleviates the whole stupid issue and makes sag setting easy. :)
BTW....I believe KYB makes the shock not yamaha:moon:


I think after its stripped this method doesnt work because you cant turn the nut without a hammer

  • mywifefarts

Posted January 31, 2009 - 11:24 PM

#27

Where can you get a steel preload ring to replace the aluminum one? I have seen a suspension tech adjust a guys sag on an 07 at th track and he bitched about the Yamaha KYB using aluminum preload rings as he sprayed the threads with WD40.

  • gtxkid

Posted February 01, 2009 - 08:09 AM

#28

I have the perfict answer.
Install the adjustable pre load adjuster made by Merge racing.
Problem solved.
And now you can easly adjust sag for different tracks or testing.

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  • dirtdevil72

Posted February 01, 2009 - 10:46 AM

#29

Same thing happened to my 07, yamaha wouldn't do anything about it. Still riding with the stripped threads.

  • PAdaytonaman

Posted February 01, 2009 - 01:40 PM

#30

for some reason, these threads are really prone to binding up. I took apart the rear and lubed up theads and kept the lock ring loose. When I went to adjust the sag the ring started to bind and I stopped right away. I took it apart again and used a shock wrench on it and it turned fine.

Not sure what happened, but it scared the sh-t out of me after reading this thread.

  • Wes Woodin

Posted February 01, 2009 - 06:35 PM

#31

for some reason, these threads are really prone to binding up. I took apart the rear and lubed up theads and kept the lock ring loose. When I went to adjust the sag the ring started to bind and I stopped right away. I took it apart again and used a shock wrench on it and it turned fine.

Not sure what happened, but it scared the sh-t out of me after reading this thread.

It was interesting to me. When I finally got the rings I looked closely at them and the aluminum ring had been worn, as if the ring was pitted. Now remember, at the time the bike had only 13 hours on it. The only thing I can think is that the ring was tightened too much, but thay is only a guess.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 01, 2009 - 06:40 PM

#32

Since the spring hasn't changed size in several years, I'll guess that the older lock ring will fit. I believe they were steel. PN 3SP-22213-00-00

  • Wes Woodin

Posted February 01, 2009 - 07:14 PM

#33

It was interesting to me. When I finally got the rings I looked closely at them and the aluminum ring had been worn, as if the ring was pitted. Now remember, at the time the bike had only 13 hours on it. The only thing I can think is that the ring was tightened too much, but thay is only a guess.



I did replace both rings

  • mywifefarts

Posted February 01, 2009 - 07:20 PM

#34

I did replace both rings


What did you replace them with? Steel rings, or OEM steel and aluminum?

  • Wes Woodin

Posted February 02, 2009 - 07:22 PM

#35

What did you replace them with? Steel rings, or OEM steel and aluminum?

I went back with stock.

  • bluebreadtruck

Posted February 02, 2009 - 09:06 PM

#36

i dont know if the newer shocks are the same size/thread, but my 2000' wr has 2 steel rings....both are steel. Maby you could use one of them?





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