Drowning my 07 WR 450


6 replies to this topic
  • Scotty426

Posted January 18, 2009 - 09:26 AM

#1

Up here in Alaska, we cross streams a lot and they change course and depth almost dialy. I have an '07 that I bought the GYTR kit for. The kit recommends removing the "binoculars" from the airbox and I did. I notice that the bike is very vulnerable to getting water in the airbox. It happens on the WR much more so than my 04 YZ426. After every crossing, I dump the clear plug in the bottom and it nearly always has 1/2" water at the bottom or more. So far there are no adverse effects, just concearn. SO-I put the binoculars back in, maybe fix the water issue, but jetting isn't right and the over-rev I paid for goes away. OR-I try to rig a monstorous snorkle set up. OR-I ignore it. OR-There is someone out there who has faced something similar and and found some other work around. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

  • dl19

Posted January 18, 2009 - 10:56 AM

#2

I don't know on an 07 as I have an 05. By removing my bino's or inlet it just opened up the intake by making more room and reduducing air flow distance. Epoxy the top portion of it only to the top of your air box. Should give you another inch for water,and allow same air flow. You can build a snorkel, but how much will you really gain without some long tube. Then you fall back into air flow restrictioin if it has to draw air for any distance. You can also replace that junky clear tube with a valved drain off from a XR600. Then all you have to do is squeeze it to drain the fluid. It is not clear, but much much easier to use.

  • SamHard

Posted January 20, 2009 - 01:15 AM

#3

I've ridden an '03 250 and 450 all over south-central alaska for years, hydrolocked the engines a few times as well. The best solution I've come up with is to run some thin weather strip around the seam of the airbox cover and let a hunting quad pioneer the way across. Also, with the carbs, run a couple of the drain tubes into your airbox. When all of the drain tubes are submerged, a negative pressure is created in the carb actually drawing water up through them.

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  • Charles De Mar

Posted January 20, 2009 - 08:14 AM

#4

Posted Image

  • AK_WR450F

Posted January 20, 2009 - 12:27 PM

#5

Yikes, that photo of your bike Charles is all to familair. Scott, have you been riding your bike lately? Man, if so, your tougher than I am w/the cold temps we've been having.
I helped another guy w/his air box by routing a hose to his box from carb, Home Depot hose parts and plastic plumbing, about 6 bucks and now he has a tight water free box, cross our fingers.
Jim Creek does suck crossing, mucky crap, ruts but yet still temping.
Drop me another message when you have time.
I kept my bike afterall vs. selling it for another.

Mark

  • Charles De Mar

Posted January 20, 2009 - 12:33 PM

#6

Yikes, that photo of your bike Charles is all to familair. Scott, have you been riding your bike lately? Man, if so, your tougher than I am w/the cold temps we've been having.
I helped another guy w/his air box by routing a hose to his box from carb, Home Depot hose parts and plastic plumbing, about 6 bucks and now he has a tight water free box, cross our fingers.
Jim Creek does suck crossing, mucky crap, ruts but yet still temping.
Drop me another message when you have time.
I kept my bike afterall vs. selling it for another.

Mark


That's MXJunky's bike:lol:

  • Scotty426

Posted January 21, 2009 - 01:39 AM

#7

Thanks troops-all great ideas. I never considered that the water may be coming in through the air filter door. I may experiment with hosing water at the air filter door to see if it penetrates. Then it's a weathersatrip fix. I don't know about the top part of the binos-mine are 1 piece, it's all or nothing unless you are saying cut the binos in 1/2. If you guys could explain it more, it might help. Thanks again for the input. Big on Steelers myself charles. Call you later Mark. Too cold to ride now---thats why I'm itching to wrench.




 
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