pbrownw, on 16 August 2012 - 11:45 AM, said:

I'll gladly do it, BUT it's gonna be a while till I get to it. Making a new backing plate to me doesn't seem like it would be any big deal. You might even get lucky and find the XR50 backing plate is the right diameter to simply drill new holes. Yes, you do need to be careful and reasonably accurate, but I don't think it needs to be tolerances to the 1/1000th.
And if you need to push the stator plate out a bit, put a washer or two behind the plate.


It only looks like it's recessed 2-3mm here, right?

Bruce,

I can't speak for experience- I'll be willing to bet all the newer MX (crf, kxf, ext.) ignition systems are fix timing. As you know most of the 2 stroke ignitions had a slightly slotted stator plate with a locking retaining plate factory fixed timing.

I agree the pick location and timing light line of sight is the challenge.



Smacaroni,

I've said it before- those cheep IRK are JUNK. If you do pull the trigger on one- be sure to order 3 or at least two. After my 3rd one (with in a few weeks) I stated investigating- and transplanted the Lifan Daytona ORK for my XR100- Ran very well for just about a year.

IMHO From my past experience any ingnition transplant really need to be a reliable factory Japan product- Most of which are abundant and readily available 2nd hand. This is the most logical step- If ones plan is to market a costum mounting plate to the masses

Besides a custom adjustable (slotted plate) mounting - Any of the standard (inny flywheel- stock style mounting) will need a cut away sacrificial ingination cover to (retain oil in the sump) set ignition timing for moch up.

I hear ya, I do. That's why I've got a motoplat for the track bike and why I carry spares. It costs me a three hour round trip ride and $55 to get in the gate, no refunds - the bike better at least run. There are a few guys whom seem to always have regular break downs on the track every event. I don't know how they do it, I'd go insane. I go half berserk when it happens once and I can rig something to finish out the day, full berserker if it happens the last race of the day. I understand.
But I do like to tinker.

On an unrelated note, I very much appreciate you sharing your Honda 100 knowledge across TT, SMJ and elsewhere on the 'net. You've certainly made that build easier and saved me some money. If only I could learn to walk in someone else's footsteps for every project.

Edited by Smacaroni, 17 August 2012 - 06:50 AM.

Thanks for the props- allways happy to help- Even tho I haven't been activly posting in the last year or so
Now if I only could get back on those XR shock ideas and ripp off a small production run of disc conversions kits.

Bruce- Need help with cloning ASAP!

gman255, on 17 August 2012 - 06:36 AM, said:

Gman, I checked out my IRK that's been sitting in the box since last winter, and the exciter is D.O.A. F@#$

N o  W a y. . . . !

You are following in my foot steps...

Quote

Oh, so you threw yours at the wall too? LOL!

I'm gonna try and rig it up with a Briggs exciter from a 3.5 flat head this weekend on my quad, just to see if the flywheel is trash too. I paid $30 shipped for mine, so I'm not too butthurt about a loss I WAS warned about. Listen to Gman!

That being said, I've also picked up an old Motoplat mini 6 IR ignition in a swap for a rewound M6 OR. Wouldn't you know it, the flywheel is approx. the same size as the chinese IRK! The stator plate I got with it is too small in diameter, and that means I have to build a new one to try it, which I want to in the near future. I doubt it would be a feasible swap for anyone else, but it looks like a PVL!
Here's a similar rotor on Fleabay

I honestly think that the PVL is the best bet for a IRK, but we do have some serious options to explore with the OR set up. Smac, do you have a KX60 flywheel off? Feel like trying it on a DRZ crank?

500XC, on 22 August 2012 - 05:31 PM, said:

I don't have a 60 on hand, but I have a KDX80 and a KX100 which are the same taper and OD/ID as the KX60. Next time I've got the parts tub out, I'll pop it on and see how it feels.

You wouldn't happen to have any basic instructions for that motoplat would you? When I took it off I didn't realize it wasn't keyed, so I have no idea what the approximate crank position should be to make it run. I've got enough on my plate right now to keep me occupied for another month or so, but sooner or later I'll want to install the motoplat on my project. I didn't see any obvious markings, but I didn't look real close yet either. I figured I'd ask while we're on the subject of IRKs.

Sorry, I've got a marked one and no instructions. Fortunately, I've got a keyed crank and lefthand crankcase from a Husky to mark against.

If I'm not mistaken, the modern PVL is in fact an evolution of the Motoplat. I'm not sure about the Swedish Electrical Mystery, but it may also be a variant of the 'plat.

Post in Husky 2 stroke and vintage, someone should have instructions somewhere!

Thanks, I would have never known if you hadn't said something. Should be easier than what I was planning to do, install at a random setting, advance or retard until it starts without kicking me back and then use a software dyno to tune for the most power.

This might be a silly question but here goes.  Has anyone tried to wire a stock DRZ125 stator to work with the older style DR100 etc. CDI box ?

Bruce, little late but sorry I couldn't help. I've been riding and not changing things often, waiting on some parts to mount up my RM250 swingarm

I've been hunting, searching and haunting classifieds looking for a used Kitaco IRK, to experiment with, so far with little to no luck, at a reasonable price anyways. Everything I've seen points towards the classic chinese IRK being a direct knock off of FAR below sub-par quality. I rewound my exciter with three different wires of three different gauges, all as neatly as humanly possible, and still it comes up 0.0 ohms. SOFB.
However, totally by accident, I came across a place that sells the exciter separately for the Kitaco IRK It's not cheap, when you consider that in order to use it, you'd have to get a chinese IRK for say $20, then spend another $65 on a new exciter from Mini Mob Racing, Classic Honda or any of the other online parts houses that deal in Kitaco, the spend some time soldering the two bits together, THEN whipping up a new backing plate or modifying the existing IRK plate, it's simply not worth it unless you ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE the IRK, either to be different, or to get every last available ounce of weight off your crank for acceleration.

I'm ordering the exciter anyways, but for now I'm going to focus on shaping the ORK backing plate to give it a try. I've also got some other crazy ideas to try