oookk so recently.. ive been riding my bike and im haulin along... and all of a sudden when i hit 5th gear im cruisn and then it starts shakin... The feeel is like it pops out of gear for a slight second and then goes back to normal and does that REPEPTITIVLY..(on going) im no good with transmissions so im leaveing it to you guys to find out the problem. it pisses me off because i think its been this way the whole time ive had it and thats why i got it so cheap... also another thing is My clutch... it is NOT smooth anymore.. i try and let it out smooth and it just POPS into gear totally rough!!! help me out!


If you cant get a feel off of that there is more information here

http://www.motocross...m_Title=The+Pit


thanks for anything

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Hello,

First off, make sure your chain and sprockets are in great shape. If the sprockets are very badly worn, the chain may be slipping, and causing the feeling you're describing. I work on bikes as my second job, and you'd be surprised at what people will ride. If the chain & sprockets are OK, then start looking at the clutch.

Pull the clutch side cover off and remove the clutch pressure plate. Next, remove the clutch plates and check the outer clutch basket to see if the fingers are grooved where the fiber plates ride.The inside of the fingers are supposed to be very smooth so the clutch plates can disengage and engage with the metal ones without hanging up on anything. This is the most abused part in the drive train (except for the chain & sprockets, but U chacked those right?). If there are grooves where the fiber plates ride, that's probably why the clutch doesn't feel right.
Also make sure the clutch cable is adjusted properly and not too tight or too loose.

If the clutch basket has grooves, then you can do one of 3 things. 1: replace it with a stock unit (expen$ive). 2: replace it with an aftermarket unit like an Hinson (not quite as expen$ive as stock, but still $$$). 3: file the grooves down until they're smooth, but you'll be buying a new basket soon, and if the grooves are too deep, filing is not gonna work 'cause it'll weaken the basket to the point of failure (extremely expen$ive) I wouldn't do it.

If the clutch basket looks fine, measure the clutch plates for thickness and warp (both fiber and metal plates) the specs are in the owners manual.

Now if all the previous things are fine, then you need to split the cases and look aththe transmission shafts, the gears, and the shift forks. if anything in there looks bad, then that's probably where the problem lies.

Any more questions, let me know..

Hi Stunt,
As butch has said already ,the first things to check are the chain and sprockets,make sure they are not slipping.My guess is its not the clutch that is rough but some thing in the garbox is not fully engaged ,probably due to a bent selector fork or worn dogs on a gear.Try not to ride it in this condition ,check your oil and filter for metal particles.If you do split the cases replace ANY parts that look worn .Theres nothing worse than putting it all back together and realising that the problem still exists,it makes a gear/shim/spacer seem very cheap all of a sudden !
Just my two cents,
Jim.

Well there was a normal amount of metal chips in my oil filter...and when i drained all the oil from my transmission i filtered it with a paint sprayer filter.. it caught some trash but i found no metal pieces......

what kind of difficulty level are we looking at when we talk about splitting the case....

Splitting the cases is not a difficult operation it is just very time consuming. First off, the engine has to be removed from the frame. Then the top end and cylinder need to come off, once that is done the clutch and ignition rotor needs to be taken off. Finally you can split the cases. If you decide to do this make sure you get a case splitter, this pulls the cases apart in a way that they stay parallel. You will probably also need a flywheel puller to get the ignition rotor off. The manual that came with your bike explains how to do it completely. You can probably split the caes in one Saturday afternoon. It is not difficult just time-consuming and tedious. There are a lot of parts in there to keep track of.

Ah, splitting the cases. Aside from needing a few specialized tools, it's not very difficult at all. You'll need an ignition rotor removal tool. This is the most important one. They cost around 40 or 50 bucks. You can't realistically do it with any other tool and not mess something else up in the process. If you can sweet talk your local bike shop into doing it for you for a few bucks this will work also. But don't try to pry it off or use a jaw type puller, you're just asking for problems.

The rest of the process has pretty much been outlined in HOYDAJJ's post, so no reason to repeat.
Remember, there are a lot of parts in there, and they all need ot go back where they came from. little shim washers can stick to either the inner cases, or to the transmission shafts, and if you aren't paying enough attention, they can get mixed up, or lost. This is not good, as they keep the trans gears all in alignment.

This is really easier than it sounds, but you do have to be careful, and keep a sharp eye out for where things belong. A digital camera may be of use during the removal phase, to make the replacement phase go smoothly.

This sounds exactly the same as what happened to one of my riding buddy's 426. the 5th gear felt like it was slipping, soo my uncle tore down the whole motor, and replaced the 5th gear and a bent shifter fork and it fixed the problem.

Could also be a broken/ cracked shift drum. I had one explode in my CR125, had to split the cases, and sure enough metal chunks everywhere. Good part was that no gears were damaged. I suggest that you DO NOT ride any further until you can find the problem. Are there metal particles in the oil and/or filter? As far as the clutch, it may be toast also. They can get real grabby when they are shot. Good luck!