Posted February 01, 2003 - 11:32 AM
Posted February 01, 2003 - 11:43 AM
Posted February 01, 2003 - 06:01 PM
Posted February 01, 2003 - 06:18 PM
Posted February 04, 2003 - 12:13 PM
if the rest of your jetting is done you must ask yourself how long did it need choke?
when did it eight stroke?
for instance my bike used to eigth stroke before it was warmed up!
this resulted in
choke out and start
choke out and start
getting the picture?
they shouldn't eight stroke you know ge-dung, ge-dung, ge-dung fizzzz (death warble)
Posted February 04, 2003 - 12:48 PM
Posted February 04, 2003 - 01:12 PM
My YZF wouldn't even attempt to start with the stock choke jet, and would not run with it on. It made cold (for here, anyway) starts a bit of a hit-or-miss proposition, and I had to run the idle really high to get the thing to warm up.
I finally got tired of that this fall, so I just guessed blindly at a choke jet, I think I went two sizes smaller, and my choke actually worked after that.
If your bike starts w/ the choke in cold weather you probably don't need to fool with it.
My two cents.
Posted February 04, 2003 - 01:13 PM
Posted February 04, 2003 - 01:40 PM
I do live in a warm climate, so cold to me is not very cold and I always considered that this was the reason I never needed the choke. In the colder months, though, cold starting is kind of little dance. Couple squirts with the throttle, tries to start, won't idle. Pull choke, kick not even close (never works, I don't know why I still bother to try). Couple more squirts try again. Pull the hot start and decomp and clear the excess squirts. Kick some more. Turn up the idle. Kick some more. Finally catches and if I nurse the throttle it'll smooth out and idle (with idle still adjusted high). When the idle rpms take off after a few minutes, turn the idle back down.
Huh, change the choke jet so I can use the choke? Duh, maybe I'll try that.
Posted February 04, 2003 - 02:23 PM
Posted February 04, 2003 - 02:44 PM
Posted February 04, 2003 - 03:10 PM
Posted February 06, 2003 - 03:56 AM
but if everyone runs rich at low revs they have to find another way to start the bike. a twist, three twists, two kick throughs whilst on the kill button getting the wife to piss in the tank etc etc.
but if you get the low end jetting right then it's simple-you need choke. i went through what you're saying when i bought the bike.
THEN when i had done the jetting, i needed choke.
that's why in "jetting Qs" i did the choke jet and the APJ last. 26 months ago i left the bike in the shed for three months and said phuq it because i had fowled a plug so i've been there.
Posted February 06, 2003 - 07:17 AM
You're right, though. I'm going to get my needle straight and pilot jetting dialed in a little better before I test any choke jet changes.
Right now I am at 170 MJ, ELP #3, 40 PJ, 65 PAS, about 1 turn on the FS. This has been hit and miss as the winter oxygenated blends here seem to very a great deal in quality and consistency. I've switched to VP MS103 in order to get more consistent (and cleaner) fueling. That jetting seems to be a little fat across the board with this fuel, so I'm gonna be tweaking it a bit at a time.
What do you think about some of the more recent suggestions to go leaner on the needle straight? I ride mostly in the range of about 2,000 to 6,000 ft with temps in the 80F range right now. Some have expressed good results from going to ELQ and juicing the pilot up a bit, what do you think?
Posted February 06, 2003 - 01:45 PM
i think the big problem is the fight to get people to keep going forward to leaner jetting instead of falling back "into the pocket"-an american term i believe- where it's easy to overjuice and be happy.
the needle straight has to be right on it's own. it can't really be lean or it would be a horror.
remember that at sea level the 'P' needle had a hidious flat spot on mine.
so i guess that if it has no "five yard flat spot" then the Q will be a good needle.
on opening the throttle the APJ and PJ start to take over and although i don't think the APJ has anything to do with it, a lot of riders are running high PJ to PAJ ratio.
so much so that i'm pretty sure that the shear richness of the PC is well over the top and is the reason that the needle can go back to a lean 'Q'.
if you look at jetting Qs (which i'm not but let's try my memory out) the PC is the 20% 'top-up' on the needle's straight diameter.
for me though the balance is wrong-richer needle, lean pilot is better for a snappy reaction (like a trials bike) as opposed to perhaps the drag strip overfueling some look for, when going from zero.
at the end of the day though as we have all said; if it works, it works!
Posted February 06, 2003 - 03:09 PM
Then again, I'm just guessing and I won't know until I try each little bit. Perhaps I'm just hoping 'cause for as tiny as it is, that little clip should be a heck of a lot easier to adjust.
In the meantime, I'll order a couple smaller SJs.
Posted February 06, 2003 - 10:49 PM
but the test conditions need toi be spot on for a true back to back test.
so no rough old tracks and try and find a bit of highway somewhere.