Quick clutch question


15 replies to this topic
  • Jcorwin

Posted December 26, 2008 - 06:04 AM

#1

I have an 03 WR450 - when the bike is in gear (not running) I am unable to move it by pulling the clutch in. Is this an indicator of excessive clutch wear? Visually it looks like everything is pulling correctly - the exterior connector for the clutch cable appears to moving the correct distance. When running it seems to shift correctly. I have a new clutch that came with the bike so just wondering the time to get it replaced.

Thanks

  • oldmanx

Posted December 26, 2008 - 10:53 AM

#2

It sounds like the cable needs to be adjusted...like the clutch cable is not moving far enough to disengage the clutch plates. How much free play do you have at the lever when it fully released? It should be something like 3 - 5 mm...or the thickness of a nickel.

  • William1

Posted December 26, 2008 - 01:08 PM

#3

Not at all uncommon for oil induced drag to make the bike hard to move when in gear, engine off, assuming the clutch is adjusted right, esp. with a cold engine.

  • c9buff

Posted December 26, 2008 - 04:44 PM

#4

What William1 said.

  • flyer05

Posted December 26, 2008 - 05:45 PM

#5

Same with mine but does fine when running.

  • trailscout

Posted December 26, 2008 - 06:22 PM

#6

a slightly warped plate can cause quite a bit of clutch drag.

  • hillclimbguy

Posted December 28, 2008 - 09:55 AM

#7

You may want to remove the clutch cover, remove all the plates and inspect the clutch basket. May have grooves in it. Just a suggestion. Mine did. I was able to remove the basket and file the grooves. Still works for me but a one time fix only.

  • brad the best

Posted December 28, 2008 - 02:19 PM

#8

two questions

is it hard to move or is the rear tire locked up .

does it creap when you have it running start it up and put it in gear with the clutch in ?

mine does the same thing , my clutch is fine its just like william said .

on my sisters car when its cold out when you first start it up put it in neutral and let the clutch out it will stall just from turning the gears in the oil . friggin rice .

if your really worried you could check out the clutch .

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  • Jcorwin

Posted December 29, 2008 - 10:28 AM

#9

The rear tire is totally locked up when off and in gear with clutch pulled in - it doesn't creap at all when running and in gear - It did before I put a new cable on about month and 1/2 ago. Inspecting the clutch means draining the engine oil correct? Bout time for an oil change so maybe I'll do that. My history though - nothing ever seems to be that simple but I'm learning.

  • Jcorwin

Posted December 29, 2008 - 10:30 AM

#10

One more thing - I have the parts but I'm a complete novice when it comes to bike repairs. I'll do the basics ( Cables - sprockets - brakes) - would you all consider the clutch to be a major repair? Like you should really know what you're doing to mess with one?

Be honest my feelings will not be hurt!

  • face_plant

Posted December 29, 2008 - 10:40 AM

#11

not hard and simple tools required, just take your time and torque the 4 bolts correctly, and you should be ok

  • brad the best

Posted December 29, 2008 - 10:48 AM

#12

they're are certain things you need to know about taking a clutch apart , if you haven't done one before i would just get a clutch kit , don't bother trying to figure out if the old one is any good you already took it apart you might as well just put in new parts and not worry about it anymore . a new clutch is not that expensive .

you will need a torque wrench , i would go over the procedure in the factory service manual that you can download and see if you think you can do it .

i don't know if there is any clutch write ups on the net or not , there should be .

another thing is you need to be able to tell if the basket is worn out , you could always take it to were ever you buy your clutch and just ask the shop mechanic and he will tell you for free .

mine still does the same thing as yours i dont think its the clutch , ill change my clutch when it slips .

its actually an easy clutch to do the plates look like there just round ones not eliptical so it should be fairly straight forward .

  • trailscout

Posted December 29, 2008 - 02:39 PM

#13

A puzzler! This may sound far out, I'm just throwing out ideas.

Maybe as the previous poster has suggested, the basket has groves worn in it that are preventing some of the plates to relax apart when not running, but when running the vibration of the motor lets them get past the notch.

Just a thought, but as another poster also suggested, sounds like tear down time to see what's really going on.

  • Jeff_Steckline

Posted December 29, 2008 - 03:32 PM

#14

One more thing - I have the parts but I'm a complete novice when it comes to bike repairs. I'll do the basics ( Cables - sprockets - brakes) - would you all consider the clutch to be a major repair? Like you should really know what you're doing to mess with one?

Be honest my feelings will not be hurt!

as long as you have the manual you'll be fine. Just to let you know, if your in a hurry (your not) you can lay your bike on its side so you don't have to drain your oil. But it sounds like it's time for you to change yours. Peace. Jeff S

  • Jcorwin

Posted December 29, 2008 - 05:23 PM

#15

OK Challenge on - I'll do it after the next ride! Worse come to worse and I take the bike already stripped down to the shop for them to finish. I have the manual so no worries there and I already have the new parts as they came with the bike. Anything else I should consider replacing when I'm in there?

:busted:

  • brad the best

Posted December 29, 2008 - 06:27 PM

#16

you should be all good , remember to adjust your cable after your done . and take it easy on your new clutch for a little bit . probably a good idea to change oil and filter in a couple hours once its broken in .




 
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