Steering feels stiff?


14 replies to this topic
  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 06:21 AM

#1

Hey,

Would like some suggestions as to why my steering 'freezes' into place after leaving my bike sat for sometime. The front suspension has load on it when not in use and takes some force to move the bars left to right, then eventually frees up some play, enough to move the bars fully left and right.

Seems as though the head stock bearing can do with re-greasing and a good clean aswell, if it doesn't need replacing that is!

Thanks

  • KJ790

Posted December 15, 2008 - 06:33 AM

#2

Simple, you went too long without reasing your steering bearings and they rusted, etching the races and making the steering freeze and notchy. You will most likely need new bearings and races.

  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 10:26 AM

#3

Bummer, thanks for letting me know. So, the whole front end has to come apart now?

  • Wiz636

Posted December 15, 2008 - 10:50 AM

#4

So, the whole front end has to come apart now?


Yep. Honestly though...if the rust is not too bad I will just clean/regrease real good and run it.

  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 11:17 AM

#5

Bugger!!

Just had a quick flick through the workshop manual, the job requires the ring nut wrench YU-33975/90890-01403? Would i be stupid to try the job without this yamaha specific tool?

  • NorCal

Posted December 15, 2008 - 11:45 AM

#6

Bugger!!

Just had a quick flick through the workshop manual, the job requires the ring nut wrench YU-33975/90890-01403? Would i be stupid to try the job without this yamaha specific tool?


Is that for the top nut on the triple clamp? If so, you can run down to your local
hardware store and pick up a big socket. I'm not sure what size it is off hand,
but that's what I use.

  • Wiz636

Posted December 15, 2008 - 11:52 AM

#7

Bugger!!

Just had a quick flick through the workshop manual, the job requires the ring nut wrench YU-33975/90890-01403? Would i be stupid to try the job without this yamaha specific tool?


It is somewhat ghetto but I just use a pair of channel locks to remove the ring nut underneath the upper clamp. It is not very tight. When reinstalling it needs to be torqued down pretty tight to 'set' the bearings and then backed off and re-torqued lightly. Again, it is ghetto but when reinstalling I just set it pretty tight with a hammer and punch in the grooves and then back it off and re-tighten lightly with the channel locks.

The nut on top of the upper clamp just needs a big socket (32mm?) and it is tight. I believe it calls for 105 ft/lbs of torque.

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  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 11:58 AM

#8

Is that for the top nut on the triple clamp? If so, you can run down to your local
hardware store and pick up a big socket. I'm not sure what size it is off hand,
but that's what I use.


Would i not have to remove the bottom bolt on the pic to remove the bearing(s)?

Here's a pic.

Posted Image

  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 12:00 PM

#9

It is somewhat ghetto but I just use a pair of channel locks to remove the ring nut underneath the upper clamp. It is not very tight. When reinstalling it needs to be torqued down pretty tight to 'set' the bearings and then backed off and re-torqued lightly. Again, it is ghetto but when reinstalling I just set it pretty tight with a hammer and punch in the grooves and then back it off and re-tighten lightly with the channel locks.

The nut on top of the upper clamp just needs a big socket (32mm?) and it is tight. I believe it calls for 105 ft/lbs of torque.

Excellente, cheers for the suggestion. Yeah the upper bolt seems to be on tight for sure! May get some help for that! Bars coming off as i type. :thumbsup:

  • KJ790

Posted December 15, 2008 - 12:39 PM

#10

I've always used channel locks for the spanner nut under the top triple clamp, works great.

  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 01:25 PM

#11

Okay cool, have checked out the bearings and have given them a clean. Top one's off all okay, not sure how to get the lower bearing off without causing any damage, Any ideas?

All the grease seems fine but re-doing that as my gut instinct tells me that was the original grease (pink?). Giving the lot a shot of WD40 and a clean of crap that has built up.

This is my progress so far.

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Thanks!

  • KJ790

Posted December 15, 2008 - 01:37 PM

#12

The bottom bearing is pressed onto the stem. I think the best way to get it off without damaging it is to press the stem out of the bottom clamp, then press it back when you want to put it all back together. Run your finger on the races and see if you can feel any bumps. If it isn't too bad you might be able to get away with sanding them a little. If they are badly etched you will need to replace them, along with the bearings.

  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 01:45 PM

#13

The bottom bearing is pressed onto the stem. I think the best way to get it off without damaging it is to press the stem out of the bottom clamp, then press it back when you want to put it all back together. Run your finger on the races and see if you can feel any bumps. If it isn't too bad you might be able to get away with sanding them a little. If they are badly etched you will need to replace them, along with the bearings.


Races feel good to the touch. Have noticed when running the upper bearing in the race the outer 'shell' seems to move in an oval motion after a few spins?

  • Ninja 1

Posted December 15, 2008 - 02:51 PM

#14

Cool all seems good, have re-greased the bearings and the races and the feeling's much better! Just putting stuff back together now.

Many thanks for everyone's input and guidance throughout the job!

  • grayracer513

Posted December 15, 2008 - 08:50 PM

#15

The ring nut that pre-sets the bearing torques to only 5 foot/pounds (after being run down to 27, then loosened again). The use of a spanner wrench is more precise, but unnecessary for the most part once you get the feel for how these set up. When the crown nut is torqued down on the top clamp at 130 ft/lb, the ring nut is forced down farther, so don't gauge how the stem feels until after this is done.





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