Valve Adjustment Cost????
Posted December 02, 2008 - 11:55 PM
Posted December 03, 2008 - 01:28 AM
Basically you get the engine in the right spot to check valve clearances, top dead centre (TDC), which is when the piston is at the top of its compression stroke. Then you use the correct feeler guages to your manual/specifications (the clearances are measured in thousandths of an inch and intake clearance will be slightly less than exhaust clearance) and see if it slides under each adjuster and has a slight drag when you slide the gauge back and forth. If it has slight drag, it is right. If it has no drag, it is too loose, if you can't fit the proper gauge in it's too tight. If they're right, put the bike back together, if they're not, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster in or out with the correct feeler gauge under, until it is firm against the gauge and tighten the lock nut again while holding the adjuster with whatever tool so it doesn't just spin back in as you do the nut up. Check with the right sized feeler gauge and see if there is a bit of drag when you move it back and forth, repeat the loosen/tighten procedure until the valve clearances are to spec. Double check the lock nuts on the adjusters are tight then put it back together and start her up. Once you get the hang of doing it, you'll wonder why you ever paid to have it done with these style adjusters. Generally the exhaust valve clearances rarely move.
Posted December 03, 2008 - 05:43 AM
Call them back and talk to someone who is a little more knowledgeable with your bike as what your requesting is not a common model. A full service for your bike will be in the 2-3 hour range times what ever their hourly labor rate is. You can also request just having the valves adjusted but it will not save you much.
Posted December 04, 2008 - 08:31 AM
No way should you pay that much! It is pretty much a DIY job, especially on these older mechanical adjusters rather than shim adjusters.
The XT350 is shim in bucket style, not mechanical.
Check them as described. It's easy. Adjusting them requires a special tool if you don't pull the cams, and you will have to buy shims if you need them.
You are due for a check (600mi initial, 4000mi thereafter), but I'd be suprised if they need adjustment. I went over 10,000 before I had to adjust anything.
As far as price, that seems high, but I had mine done with the head off the bike. Cost me $75(1 hr. you shop rate may vary) + new gaskets($30). I think double that for doing it on the bike would be fair.
The only reason I had the shop do it was because they were putting new valves in too (long story). Also, they didn't charge for the shims since they just swapped mine with some others they had on hand. They don't really were out so they just reuse old ones.
Posted December 04, 2008 - 01:09 PM
Posted December 04, 2008 - 07:52 PM
Posted December 05, 2008 - 05:41 AM
You only need the special tool if you want to replace the shims without removing the cams.
If I was working in a Yami shop, I'd use the tool to save some time.
When I do it myself, I just remove the cams to save some $ on the tool.
As far as special tool go, there are several for this bike, but I have been able to either make something or work around almost all of them.
The only one I actually had to buy was the flywheel puller and you can get those on e-bay. I also decided that my solution for a valve spring compressor wasn't worth the trouble and had the shop do that part.
The Climer will tell you what tools you need. Many of them are pictured.
Posted May 05, 2009 - 05:30 PM
Posted May 06, 2009 - 03:47 AM
Remove the valve cover and left case cover line up the timing mark and check the valve clearence with some feeler guages.
You can change the leaky vlave cover gasket whilr you're at it. It's rubber and reusable, but they don't last forever.