easier clutch pull



51 replies to this topic
  • desdave

Posted December 08, 2008 - 11:39 AM

#21

On my lever, the cable is in a straight line from the new hole into the perch...the red line runs straight to my new position. Therefore my lever arm is about half way down the purple line you drew. If the cable exited the same spot and made a hard bend to the new hole it would break very quickly I would think. I have swapped the cable back and forth a couple of times, and it is noticably easier, and the engagement point only took a cable adjuster twist to make it correct.

  • matt4x4

Posted December 08, 2008 - 12:35 PM

#22

If your slot is really deep and actually does not allow your cable to rest in the bottom keeping the same lever arm as I suggested, then what is happening is the following:

pre mod - Your original lever pull from out to in is say 2.5" of handle movement, that converted to say 1.5" of cable pull.

post mod - Your original lever pull did not change so it still is 2.5", but moving the hole down in the lever reduces your cable pull to say 1.1" if the cable free floats

So - if that is the case, then yes, the mod reduced the force required because over the same length of lever pull you're pulling less cable distance and compressing the clutch springs less.

BUT - down at the clutch end, you're also disengaging the clutch less compared to the prior 1.5"), so you will get more drag on the plates by not fully disengaging the clutch (similar to not pulling the clutch in all the way).

One way to check this is put the cable in the original hole, pull clutch and reference where your lever moves to on the case, mark it, then change holes and pull again - it won't pull as far...

  • buspilot

Posted May 26, 2009 - 04:45 AM

#23

I installed a Wirtz Ez-3 Clutch Lever Kit to my '06 WR 450.
It's amazing how less effort is required to pull on the clutch.


Posted Image

Here you see the 3 Holes on the lever to choose the amount of force, on the pull.
Posted Image

  • graazzy

Posted May 26, 2009 - 05:55 PM

#24

:crazy:
Top mod . Thank's !

  • Lcpl0331

Posted May 26, 2009 - 06:06 PM

#25

That's the MSR ez-pull perch and lever that was mentioned earlier. I've used that on 3 different bikes.

  • HTElectrical

Posted May 26, 2009 - 06:45 PM

#26

Too bad you can't get that in a ASV or other folding lever, or can you?

  • wr450mazz

Posted May 27, 2009 - 03:00 AM

#27

Hi all,I remember back in the 80's reading Motocross action or Dirtbike magazine (yes we do read your mags here in oz)and they had the lever mod as shown.
Now...from memory what they did was move the pivot point.The bolt that holds the lever in the perch was moved to a different position.This kept the cable pull in a straight line.
The above mod shown here i'm sure works well but i'm sure stresses the cable/housing as it sits at an angle and will eventually cut through the adjuster.
As you all say though...its a quick and easy mod that you can change back in a sec.
One day i will go through all my mags and try and find it and post it here.
I used to buy about 4 dirtbike mags (US and oz) a month for nearly 10 years between '79-'89 and loved reading them.They have sat in my mums garage for the last 20 years.Everyone tells me to throw them out but i just can't part with them.I occasionally walk into the garage and pull out an old dirtbike mag and relive the old bike memories.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted May 27, 2009 - 05:23 AM

#28

I installed a Wirtz Ez-3 Clutch Lever Kit to my '06 WR 450.
It's amazing how less effort is required to pull on the clutch.


Posted Image

Here you see the 3 Holes on the lever to choose the amount of force, on the pull.
Posted Image


Nice. What did you do with the hot start lever? Doesn't it bolt to the top of the clutch perch on the oem clutch lever?

  • buspilot

Posted May 27, 2009 - 09:39 PM

#29

The picture in my post is from the Wirtz-Website - the hot-start-lever fits exactly on the Wirtz Kit!

  • GASKICKER

Posted October 29, 2015 - 07:19 PM

#30

I just did this free mod (drill a new hole in the clutch lever for the cable end to go in) and darned if it didn't make the pull much lighter. I have to ride it to see how it changed the engagement point, but first impression is that my stress over switching to hydraulic or an expensive wc perch or whatever are over. If this works out, it will be just what I needed.

check out this video - 

on a street bike, but exactly what you've done here



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  • bobpara

Posted October 30, 2015 - 09:55 AM

#31

Make it real easy on yourself. get 3 clutch springs from the 250 model and put them alternately (there are 6 springs total). Mine works like butter and its still strong enough to hold the whole stack together, Never slips on a hill, nothing.

You will also need to get a new clutch cover gasket.



  • GASKICKER

Posted November 02, 2015 - 04:43 PM

#32

anyone extended the clutch pull lever at the case on a WR?



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted November 02, 2015 - 05:16 PM

#33

All of the leverage change mods don't disengage the clutch enough

 

Kind of pointless

!



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted November 04, 2015 - 02:58 AM

#34

Krannie is right.

 

I disliked the clutch pull on my WR.  I replaced it with a Magura.  Make sure to get the 9.5mm master, not the 10.5.   The 9.5 increases the leverage a bit which makes the lever easier to pull.  The lack of cable friction also makes it easier to pull.  It also self adjusts.  The result is a somewhat easier pull and a lot more precision and feel.

 

The 9.5 master cylinder decreases the slave cylinder travel a bit compared to the 10.5.  You have to set it up very precisely or else the clutch is either slipping or it won't disengage.  Once set up, it is perfect though and doesn't need any more attention.

 

A Magura is expensive, but it should last a lifetime and with a different mount kit you can transfer it from bike to bike.  I love mine.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, November 04, 2015 - 03:00 AM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted November 04, 2015 - 06:04 AM

#35

Krannie is right.

 

I disliked the clutch pull on my WR.  I replaced it with a Magura.  Make sure to get the 9.5mm master, not the 10.5.   The 9.5 increases the leverage a bit which makes the lever easier to pull.  The lack of cable friction also makes it easier to pull.  It also self adjusts.  The result is a somewhat easier pull and a lot more precision and feel.

 

The 9.5 master cylinder decreases the slave cylinder travel a bit compared to the 10.5.  You have to set it up very precisely or else the clutch is either slipping or it won't disengage.  Once set up, it is perfect though and doesn't need any more attention.

 

A Magura is expensive, but it should last a lifetime and with a different mount kit you can transfer it from bike to bike.  I love mine.

 

Hold on there cowboy....don't get me caught up in you commie-clutch-conspiracy! 

 

I hate hydralic clutches....at least all I have tried.

 

The feel and engagement point is to nebulus for me, and I don't like the thought of having  a 'clutch helper' on board....that can fail from a small rock stuck in the chain....



  • GASKICKER

Posted November 07, 2015 - 05:01 PM

#36

Hold on there cowboy....don't get me caught up in you commie-clutch-conspiracy! 

 

I hate hydralic clutches....at least all I have tried.

 

The feel and engagement point is to nebulus for me, and I don't like the thought of having  a 'clutch helper' on board....that can fail from a small rock stuck in the chain....

so replace 3 of the clutch springs with 3 of the wr250 clutch springs and call it a day? where can i buy them singly? I see packs all over the place. 

Also, is there a how to somewhere? I do have the service manual, Im sure there are some details on spring replacement in there.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted November 07, 2015 - 05:41 PM

#37

so replace 3 of the clutch springs with 3 of the wr250 clutch springs and call it a day? where can i buy them singly? I see packs all over the place. 

Also, is there a how to somewhere? I do have the service manual, Im sure there are some details on spring replacement in there.

 

You can buy them from your dealer

You lean the bike on it's side (gas off, cap vent plugged) remove the brake pedal, remove the clutch cover (keep track of the bolt locations) and with the bike in gear, remove the clutch spring bolts using a 10mm. Then replace the springs discussed. You can do all (5) if you are a real lightweight (?).  Tighten to torque spec (about 7ftlbs), and do not overtighten, as they are not structural, and they do snap.

 

You can also 'shim' the spring bolt by putting a washer under the head that only touches the top of the spring (must fit in the recess).

This will provide less pre-load on the spring, making the initial pull softer as well.

 

The real problem is plate stiction.

 

When you pull in the lever, all the plates stick together, and you are not disengaging the clutch until you get the lever all the way to the bar.

If you drill more holes in the basket, similar to the one already there, the plates get more oil, don't stick, and you only have to pull the clutch in about 50% as far to disengage.



  • Agazza

Posted November 09, 2015 - 12:00 AM

#38

Anyone installed a EZ 3 with hot start?

 

s-l400.jpg

 

 

is it worth  the money?



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted November 09, 2015 - 08:00 AM

#39

Post of the year there, Krannie.



  • GASKICKER

Posted November 20, 2015 - 02:45 PM

#40

You can buy them from your dealer

You lean the bike on it's side (gas off, cap vent plugged) remove the brake pedal, remove the clutch cover (keep track of the bolt locations) and with the bike in gear, remove the clutch spring bolts using a 10mm. Then replace the springs discussed. You can do all (5) if you are a real lightweight (?).  Tighten to torque spec (about 7ftlbs), and do not overtighten, as they are not structural, and they do snap.

 

You can also 'shim' the spring bolt by putting a washer under the head that only touches the top of the spring (must fit in the recess).

This will provide less pre-load on the spring, making the initial pull softer as well.

 

The real problem is plate stiction.

 

When you pull in the lever, all the plates stick together, and you are not disengaging the clutch until you get the lever all the way to the bar.

If you drill more holes in the basket, similar to the one already there, the plates get more oil, don't stick, and you only have to pull the clutch in about 50% as far to disengage.

Ive never been called a lightweight. 210 @ 5'10", I have been called husky / sturdy though. Thank you for the instructions. I will get this done over the winter and report back. I was looking at 'race' aftermarket and GYTR clutch baskets, they all have slots where you are saying to drill holes....can you have too many holes in the stock basket fingers, obviously too many would affect structural integrity. How many is ideal?


Edited by GASKICKER, November 20, 2015 - 03:19 PM.





 
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