easier clutch pull



51 replies to this topic
  • desdave

Posted November 30, 2008 - 06:42 PM

#1

One of the things I'll miss about my ktm 300 is it's hydro clutch....one finger pull and it never changed no matter how much you abused the clutch. My WR 450 takes a manly pull, with is fine until you're 30 miles into a gnarly ride and your left hand starts giving out. Here's the question....an old desert racer trick from back in the day was to weld an extension on the engine end lever to improve the leverage ratio and make for easier pull. Anyone done that on their wr, and if so, how much length did you add, and did it make the clutch noticably easier?

  • mickeydee

Posted November 30, 2008 - 06:47 PM

#2

when i used to own a yzf400 one of the mods i did was to put on a honda cr250 clutch lever and perch.it made a huge difference

  • desdave

Posted November 30, 2008 - 06:51 PM

#3

I've heard that the honda lever/perch does make for easier pull due to different ratio. Might be worth a try.

  • SXP

Posted November 30, 2008 - 07:16 PM

#4

Here's a free mod. If you try it, let us know how it works: http://www.thumperta...lutch lever mod

  • MaxPower

Posted November 30, 2008 - 08:34 PM

#5

http://cgi.ebay.com/...AX:IT&viewitem=

  • desdave

Posted November 30, 2008 - 10:11 PM

#6

That drilling the stock lever looks interesting, hadn't heard of that one, but it makes sense. I'll try it and report on the results. It's not that the stock pull is horrible, but half way thru the second loop of an 80 mile hare and hound, as my 56 year old arm starts to seize from having to finesse the clutch up one more rocky torn up goat trail a guy starts to think "gee, life would be sweet if this clutch was just a tad lighter on the pull".

  • desdave

Posted December 05, 2008 - 12:41 PM

#7

Here's a free mod. If you try it, let us know how it works: http://www.thumperta...lutch lever mod


I just did this free mod (drill a new hole in the clutch lever for the cable end to go in) and darned if it didn't make the pull much lighter. I have to ride it to see how it changed the engagement point, but first impression is that my stress over switching to hydraulic or an expensive wc perch or whatever are over. If this works out, it will be just what I needed.

  • SXP

Posted December 05, 2008 - 01:05 PM

#8

I just did this free mod (drill a new hole in the clutch lever for the cable end to go in) and darned if it didn't make the pull much lighter. I have to ride it to see how it changed the engagement point, but first impression is that my stress over switching to hydraulic or an expensive wc perch or whatever are over. If this works out, it will be just what I needed.



Allright! I may just try it too. Does the cable exit in pretty much a straight line like stock, or does it take a nasty cable fraying bend now?

  • justbackitin

Posted December 05, 2008 - 05:17 PM

#9

Moose has a mechanical box that goes inline with the clutch cable that alters the leverage ratio. It does the same thing as modifying your stock lever, but I think it's adjustable. Just an alternative.

  • ncampion

Posted December 05, 2008 - 05:29 PM

#10

MSR makes an adjustable perch/lever with three different holes for different pull ratios, but I like your "cheap" fix better. BTW, try the Rekluse clutch. It really makes my 62 yr. old arms feel strong after technical riding. Actually, I think it's cheating. :thumbsup: :smirk: :usa:

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  • desdave

Posted December 06, 2008 - 09:56 AM

#11

All of the levers and add on boxes that change the lever ratio do exactly the same thing as this free mod. Another mod that does the same thing and would be free if you can weld is to extend the clutch arm at the engine end by 1/2". I'm riding tomorrow and will see if it hurt the engagement point, but driveway testing says its fine. I love old school home remedies.

  • SXP

Posted December 06, 2008 - 10:30 AM

#12

All of the levers and add on boxes that change the lever ratio do exactly the same thing as this free mod. Another mod that does the same thing and would be free if you can weld is to extend the clutch arm at the engine end by 1/2". I'm riding tomorrow and will see if it hurt the engagement point, but driveway testing says its fine. I love old school home remedies.


So, back to my question - does the cable exit at a sharp angle that would cause cable fraying? Thanks.

  • desdave

Posted December 07, 2008 - 05:24 AM

#13

No, the cable exits the lever thru the exisiting slot and no real change in angle of exit. I see no problems in that area. Also, if you do it and don't like it, just move the cable back to the original hole.

  • SXP

Posted December 07, 2008 - 05:25 PM

#14

Thanks. How did the test ride go?

  • desdave

Posted December 08, 2008 - 04:06 AM

#15

Ride went great. Clutch pull was mucho better. We did 50miles or so with lots of technical, and it was great. First ride on ESP suspension work also, and it was just what the bike needed. I'm loving this bike so far. Key mods besides the usual stuff (ais removal, throttle stop, grey wire) are fmf Q4, gpr v4 stabilizer and esp suspension. Each made a significant improvement in it's respective area. The bike is now totally raceable.

  • Rockyracer

Posted December 08, 2008 - 05:15 AM

#16

The Rekluse Pro really works makes the clutch pull very light ( clutch lever can still be used and works just like it did before) and makes techincal trails and hills easier to conquer.

  • ncampion

Posted December 08, 2008 - 08:40 AM

#17

Agree with Rockyracer, if you have a problem with clutch pull, go Rekluse !!!

  • msgbean

Posted December 08, 2008 - 08:56 AM

#18

Agree with Rockyracer, if you have a problem with clutch pull, go Rekluse !!!


Its obvious he is trying to do this for free or as cheap as possible so I think recommending a $500 clutch is not the answer he is looking for.

  • matt4x4

Posted December 08, 2008 - 08:59 AM

#19

I have pointed this out before and will point it out again, the "free mod" that everyone raves about does not do anything besides shortening your cable outside of the lever.

Where your cable enters through the lever to where your bolt makes the pivot point is your "Lever arm".

This lever arm NEVER changes - the only thing you've changed by doing that mod is how much cable travels in the lever before the exit point - in this case, you've pre-tensioned your cable which is essentially the same as turning the adjustment screw at the lever out more - except - using the screw it makes your cable sleeve longer where with drilling the lever, you're taking excess up inside the lever by extending the cable length required inside the lever.

BUT - the cable in the lever never ever moves - the point of exit on the lever never changed, the point on the cable that sits there might as well be where it is fastened because that is how the whole lever arm works.

The reason it probably makes the lever work better is that any worn or dirty spots inside the cable sleeve and cable are now offset a bit from where they once sat.

A longer lever arm would make your pull easier, that would require a new lever and perch in order to work.

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  • RedBull420

Posted December 08, 2008 - 10:37 AM

#20

Just the mod i was looking for, thx!




 
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