Rotella oil?


30 replies to this topic
  • guitarnut57

Posted November 29, 2008 - 09:16 AM

#1

I recently purchased an 04 YZ450f from a local pro, and he told me he was running Rotella 10W-40 (fossil fuel, non-synthetic) oil and changing it after every ride. The only non-stock parts related to the motor are a Pro-X piston and an FMF 4.1 slip-on. The bike is only ridden on MX tracks about 4-5 hours per week, speed is probably moderately fast.


Here are my questions:


1) Should I keep running this non-synthetic Rotella, or should I switch to a synthetic?

2) Which brand?

3) How often should it be changed?


Thanks

  • xorron5

Posted November 29, 2008 - 09:38 AM

#2

YAMAHA does not recommend synthetic oils...they an motocross magazine test
group recommend mineral oil because the clutch lasts longer...and u need to change the oil every 9-10 hours of driving...using semi synthetic or synthetic
oil do work but it can cause an clutch slippage..and when that happens new clutch plates mister !!:bonk:
and always use oil what is made for motorcycles only...

  • gtxkid

Posted November 29, 2008 - 09:42 AM

#3

Stay with Yamalube and change it every 8-10 hours.
You do not change oil because it beaks down, you change it to get the dirt out.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2008 - 09:43 AM

#4

YAMAHA does not recommend synthetic oils..

That is completely incorrect. Completely.

I have used nothing but synthetics for over 20 years, currently, Amsoil MCF

Read:

http://www.thumperta...432#post2685432

  • Slinkyman16

Posted November 29, 2008 - 11:22 AM

#5

i 2nd the amsoil.. and i was under the same logic as xorron.. but i made the switch and for little over a year now.. still factory clutch. bike has around 40-50 hours on it..

  • guitarnut57

Posted November 29, 2008 - 02:52 PM

#6

Thanks for all your advice guys. I was very confused when the previous owner of the bike recommended Rotella, a non-synthetic diesel oil.

Thanks

  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2008 - 04:08 PM

#7

It's a good enough oil as far as lubrication is concerned when it's fresh. It simply lacks the ability to retain its viscosity for more than about 2-3 hours when used as a gear lube. Guys will use it because they can buy it cheap and then they change every ride.

Doesn't work for me. It's important to note that simply going to an automotive synthetic doesn't improve that situation any. Most multi grade engine oils not made specifically for the purpose are no better than the Dino Rotella is in terms of viscosity retention (shear stability).

  • mickeydee

Posted November 29, 2008 - 04:37 PM

#8

shell rotella T(diesel oil) is fine for your bike.it has way more shear additives than motorcycle oil.it will shear just like any other motorcycle oil but will take longer.if you leave your motorcycle oil in for more than 10hrs it will no longer be 10/40 anymore but more like 5/30.http://www.thumperta...ighlight=UOA SM http://www.thumperta...light=shell oileven if you don't use rotella but any other motorcycle oil you still need to do frequent oil changes.when i was riding a yzf i would change the oil after every 2nd ride.keeps the motor clean and the viscostity where its supost to be.

  • 426 NOOB

Posted November 29, 2008 - 04:49 PM

#9

I would not personally want to run rotella in my bike after, I saw the inside of my buddy's yz450. The rotella left black sludgy stuff throughout the motor. Run either amsoil, or mobil 1 motorcycle oil.

  • 642MX

Posted November 29, 2008 - 05:16 PM

#10

I would not personally want to run rotella in my bike after, I saw the inside of my buddy's yz450. The rotella left black sludgy stuff throughout the motor.


Thats because your friend didn't change his often enough. Any oil will sludge if you don't change it, even Amsoil.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • 642MX

Posted November 29, 2008 - 05:18 PM

#11

I recently purchased an 04 YZ450f from a local pro, and he told me he was running Rotella 10W-40 (fossil fuel, non-synthetic) oil and changing it after every ride. The only non-stock parts related to the motor are a Pro-X piston and an FMF 4.1 slip-on. The bike is only ridden on MX tracks about 4-5 hours per week, speed is probably moderately fast.


Here are my questions:


1) Should I keep running this non-synthetic Rotella, or should I switch to a synthetic?

2) Which brand?

3) How often should it be changed?


Thanks


Rotella is fine for your YZF. I (along with 100's of others) have used it for years with no problems.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2008 - 05:29 PM

#12

shell rotella T(diesel oil) is fine for your bike.it has way more shear additives than motorcycle oil.it will shear just like any other motorcycle oil but will take longer.
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=446411

If you look at the values at the bottom of the oil test you linked to, you see a column labeled SUS Viscosity at 250 F. below that is the range that a 40 wt oil should fall in, 85-78. Note that the oil tested at what appears to be 62.1, well below the rated grade.

Now note the comments: "The viscosity was a bit low, reading more like a 30 wt than a 40 wt, but we didn't find a reason for a viscosity shift (no fuel, no moisture, etc.)". The oil failed to stay in grade. Simple as that.

Thanks for backing up my point.

By contrast, a sample I did of Amsoil MCF last New Years had over 11 hours on it over 4 days in the desert, and came back at 79.8.

  • mickeydee

Posted November 29, 2008 - 06:59 PM

#13

If you look at the values at the bottom of the oil test you linked to, you see a column labeled SUS Viscosity at 250 F. below that is the range that a 40 wt oil should fall in, 85-78. Note that the oil tested at what appears to be 62.1, well below the rated grade.

Now note the comments: "The viscosity was a bit low, reading more like a 30 wt than a 40 wt, but we didn't find a reason for a viscosity shift (no fuel, no moisture, etc.)". The oil failed to stay in grade. Simple as that.

Thanks for backing up my point.

By contrast, a sample I did of Amsoil MCF last New Years had over 11 hours on it over 4 days in the desert, and came back at 79.8.

your welcome:thumbsup: but also remember that the bike it came out of was a road riden supermoto which puts more stress/load on the oil than if you were just in the dirt.also the bike in question went 800miles before the oil change. that works out to 16hrs(for an average)on the oil.funny thing is that suzuki tells us(in the manual)to change the oil in our drz's every 4000miles:eek: i couldn't imagine doing that to any bike.i also use amsoil in my supermoto and i change it every 600 miles and when it comes out it definitly is not the 20/50 i put in fresh(it comes out like water).either way the more frequent the oil changes there are the better off the motor will be:ride:

  • grayracer513

Posted November 29, 2008 - 11:15 PM

#14

I don't buy the contention that any pavement ridden bike stresses the trans more than one of the same engine size ridden in the dirt, where the rear wheel is constantly loosing and regaining contact with the ground under power. That comes from both observing the obvious, and from the number of trans repairs I've done on dirt bikes vs road bikes. I also have seen a number of UOA's on Rotella from dirt bikes. In fact, my son beat it into the low 30wt range in two hours, and that was in a YZ250F. That was the last time I used it.

What oil looks like when you drain it cold says nothing about how it actually tests when hot, either, and without a UOA, you have no explanation for the thinner appearance.

  • Slinkyman16

Posted November 30, 2008 - 01:20 AM

#15

I don't buy the contention that any pavement ridden bike stresses the trans more than one of the same engine size ridden in the dirt, where the rear wheel is constantly loosing and regaining contact with the ground under power. That comes from both observing the obvious, and from the number of trans repairs I've done on dirt bikes vs road bikes. I also have seen a number of UOA's on Rotella from dirt bikes. In fact, my son beat it into the low 30wt range in two hours, and that was in a YZ250F. That was the last time I used it.

What oil looks like when you drain it cold says nothing about how it actually tests when hot, either, and without a UOA, you have no explanation for the thinner appearance.


damn grey is hitting some killer points tonight...

  • Dizzy Zurn

Posted March 21, 2009 - 10:34 PM

#16

Awesome thread you guys...

In the end I think I will stick with my Maxima...although expensive.

  • TD-3

Posted March 22, 2009 - 04:16 AM

#17

Rotella works great for me and most of the people I ride with. It is cheap and readily available. I change it every second ride. Rotella is also the oil of choice for those of us running Rekluse auto clutches and recommended by the them.

Run what makes you most comfortable, Rotella works just fine for many people.

  • ace402

Posted March 22, 2009 - 10:42 AM

#18

+4 on the Amsoil!!! http://www.amsoil.co...WhitePaper.aspx

  • Dizzy Zurn

Posted March 22, 2009 - 10:57 AM

#19

Great literatur review ACE.....very good.
Thanks for the input...I like the fact it was a scientific paper with no "marketing" sponsorship.

Well done.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 22, 2009 - 05:52 PM

#20

The Amsoil study was comprehensive and very well done. I do wish they would do another one that included some of the popular automotive/commercial oils. Rotella, and several others, are excellent engine oils, but fail in the area of shear stability, sometimes very rapidly. They work acceptably only if changed very frequently.





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