YZ426F - My First Oil Chnage


16 replies to this topic
  • Readymixer

Posted November 27, 2008 - 07:21 AM

#1

Greetings everyone. This is my first post here at TT. This is a great forum and I an thankful for it. I bought a 2003 YZ426F back this summer and it is my first dirt bike. I have ridden street bikes for years but no dirt bikes. Anyway, when I bought it, the guy threw in the oil filter and the synthetic oil.

It is now time for me to change the oil but I am a bit fearful of doing something incorrectly. I know I need to drain the frame and crankcase oil. When I refill, are there two fill points other than the frame? Also, my manual states that I need to make sure oil is pumping through the tube inside the filter before I button it up. Is this the case?

Any experiences or knowledge is appreciated. Also, and tips that you may have that will help me out will be appreciated as well.

Thanks!

Readymixer
Jemison, AL

  • zZCRF450kmnZz

Posted November 27, 2008 - 07:27 AM

#2

u came to the right place for answers. that for sure... people will help you...

  • jayh300

Posted November 27, 2008 - 07:45 AM

#3

it just fills thru the frame, and like you said it drains at the frame and the case. My 400 routine was basically the same, when you check the oil, do not screw in the dipstick and check it after the bikes has run a few minutes. The manual shows like 1.7q but i think that is completely dissassembled. I never got much more than 1.5 after an oil change. these bikes do not like to idle very long, the no air flow gets them hot quick, and at night the header will glow red, don't worry its normal. I would change coolant also while you are doing fluids.
If i am remembering correctly 02 was the last year of a 426, 03 should have been a 450, but i am not sure of that. My manual had the deal about the oil pipe nut to check for oil pressure too, but i missed that the first time I read that and I never did that, nore did it cause any problems.
those bikes are about as reliable as an anvil....
have fun
jay

  • matt4x4

Posted November 27, 2008 - 07:49 AM

#4

Ok, your bike is either a 2001 or 2002, if it's a 2003 it's a 450.
But to answer your questions - yes, no, and I think that there's something wrong with that info.

Yes to draining both location, no to multiple fill points and pretty much your choice on whether to check for flow - this is usually done on the outer oil passage to the head, not looking inside the filter - that would get pretty messy since oil flows all around the filter inside the closed chamber and pushes it through the filter medium.

  • Readymixer

Posted November 27, 2008 - 07:57 AM

#5

Thanks guys! I was wrong about the model year. It is in fact a 2002. I will probably tackle this project over the next couple of weeks. I absolutely LOVE this bike. It is so powerful and nimble for me (I'm 6'4" 220lbs). I have recently cut many trails on my property and ride every day. When everyone leaves today after lunch, my son and I will hit the trails! Thanks!

  • 642MX

Posted November 27, 2008 - 08:58 AM

#6

Thanks guys! I was wrong about the model year. It is in fact a 2002. I will probably tackle this project over the next couple of weeks. I absolutely LOVE this bike. It is so powerful and nimble for me (I'm 6'4" 220lbs). I have recently cut many trails on my property and ride every day. When everyone leaves today after lunch, my son and I will hit the trails! Thanks!


You know you should change the oil every few hours, right?..... I change mine every ride.

Start with warming the bike up. Drain the frame first, then the engine. Torque the drain plug bolts, they strip easy so use a torque wrench. (204 inch lbs on the frame, 168 inch lbs on the engine drain).

Next, lay the bike over on the left side, put the handle bars on a bike stand so the radiator isn't laying on the ground. Remove the oil filter cover (just in front of the clutch cover). Laying the bike over keeps the mess to a minimum. Replace or clean depending on what filter you have. Put the cover back on and pick the bike back up.

Remove the filler/dip stick in front of the gas tank. Dump 1.5 quarts in and cap it back off. Ride and repeat!...

Be sure to clean the air filter at the same time, your valves will be thankful for fresh air. :bonk:

  • DPW

Posted November 27, 2008 - 09:02 AM

#7

If you need a manual>> http://www.yamaha-mo...ice/manuals.jsp

  • 426 NOOB

Posted November 27, 2008 - 11:01 AM

#8

It really is not hard at all to do. Just follow the manual and you will be fine.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • divebobber

Posted November 27, 2008 - 05:54 PM

#9

This forum is wild. I'm always seeing posts about things I'm either thinking about or have just done. I recently bought a 2000 yz426f and have been a busy bee ever since. Yesterday I changed the oil for the first time. One thing you left out of your sequence. There's a filter screen just below the frame drain bolt. It's up in the frame and held in by a large nut (sorry, forget size).
A rubber hose connects to the nipple and the oil line coming down from it goes down to your oil filter area. By the way, the screen was perfectly clean on mine, even though there was about a half teaspoon of black crud in my oil filter housing.

  • 642MX

Posted November 27, 2008 - 06:40 PM

#10

One thing you left out of your sequence. There's a filter screen just below the frame drain bolt. It's up in the frame and held in by a large nut (sorry, forget size).
A rubber hose connects to the nipple and the oil line coming down from it goes down to your oil filter area. By the way, the screen was perfectly clean on mine, even though there was about a half teaspoon of black crud in my oil filter housing.


There are 2 reasons to clean this screen. One is just after break in. Two is right after any major engine problems that have been repaired (like a locked up crank).

Other than that, its useless to clean it because it will never be dirty.

  • divebobber

Posted November 27, 2008 - 11:12 PM

#11

So, 642, how many hours do you recommend between oil changes?

  • Family Man

Posted November 27, 2008 - 11:52 PM

#12

It really depends on how hard you ride and how much you use the clutch. probley 3 to 5 tanks of gas.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 28, 2008 - 06:47 AM

#13

It also depends a great deal on what kind of oil you use. Oils blended for automotive engine use, either "car oil" or commercial oils like Rotella, are seldom capable of retaining their viscosity when put to use in a transmission. Unfortunately, neither is every available "Motorcycle oil". Oils like this should be changed each ride day, 3 hours max.

Other oils, such as Amsoil MCF/MCV, Mobil 1 Racing 4T/V-Twin, and others, are capable of holding up far better in this regard, and can be run for up to 7-10 hours.

http://www.thumperta...432#post2685432

  • 642MX

Posted November 28, 2008 - 05:23 PM

#14

So, 642, how many hours do you recommend between oil changes?


Like Grayracer said, it depends on which oil you choose to use. I personally use Shell Rotella 15W40 and change it every ride. Guys that run Amsoil claim they can go longer, but I can buy a gallon of Rotella for the retail price of Amsoil 10W40 and I don't mind taking 10 minutes to change the oil every ride.

To answer your question, no more than 5 hours on Rotella (and other dino 10W40's). High end synthetics I wouldn't go over 10 hours.

Also, get yourself a stainless steel oil filter. Several companies make them, some are better than others, I use Ready Racings SS filter. All you have to do is clean them with some carb cleaner, blow them out with air and re-install.

  • therealjuggernaut

Posted November 28, 2008 - 06:10 PM

#15

Like Grayracer said, it depends on which oil you choose to use. I personally use Shell Rotella 15W40 and change it every ride. Guys that run Amsoil claim they can go longer, but I can buy a gallon of Rotella for the retail price of Amsoil 10W40 and I don't mind taking 10 minutes to change the oil every ride.

To answer your question, no more than 5 hours on Rotella (and other dino 10W40's). High end synthetics I wouldn't go over 10 hours.

Also, get yourself a stainless steel oil filter. Several companies make them, some are better than others, I use Ready Racings SS filter. All you have to do is clean them with some carb cleaner, blow them out with air and re-install.


Don't skimp on the oil changes, When I got my YZ400 I changed about every 4 tanks of gas. For $30 you can pick up an hour meter, they're easy to install and tell you the exact number of hours on the bike. Then go to changing about every 5 hours.

  • t-birds53

Posted November 28, 2008 - 11:36 PM

#16

Whatever you do, make sure you warm the bike up before you ever check the oil. you have to get it circulating through the frame. otherwise you'll check it and it'll be low, you'll add oil' and your oil overflow will be dumping oil onto your back tire as you ride. trust me, I've got experience with that.

  • cmore

Posted November 29, 2008 - 05:27 AM

#17

Oil is cheap insurance, I have a 2001 426. This bike has never failed me, Trail ride only. I religiuosly change oil every other ride,clean filter, only pull the frame screen couple times a year. BUY a MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG. helps collect other contaminates.





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