Throtle tube witch one


19 replies to this topic
  • gtxkid

Posted November 11, 2008 - 06:04 PM

#1

Should a guy run anything different for a plastic throtle tube.
Why do some run an aluminum one. :moon:
I want a spair anyway so if i have a grip problem or break one then i can change it fast.:thumbsup:

  • mikeerob

Posted November 11, 2008 - 07:42 PM

#2

Not had any experience with one, but I've looked into it and don't know of anybody that has one. I'm not saying it's useless bling but I don't know what the advantage is. Get a stock one if you like the grips. Stock is getting hard to beat. It may help with aftermarket grips. It looks good on paper but how is aluminum on aluminum with no lube? or the thicknes of the grip, I prefer thin. Just curious.

  • clutchless

Posted November 11, 2008 - 09:23 PM

#3

easier to twist, less chance of wrist lock in a race.

i have the pro taper one with bearings.

you can really feel the difference going from my bike to a bike with the OEM tube.

can get scary in whoops and other rough sections when you are really tired.

http://shop.thumpert...fault.asp?p=152

  • RJB

Posted November 12, 2008 - 05:02 AM

#4

Smashed mine up on the ole 426 and replaced with an alu one. Felt smoother, didn't make a blind bit of difference withe the grips - they felt just the same. Kept it lube and trouble free to this day. Can't decide what to do on my 08, as I run some barkbusters and the alu tube would need to be machined to fit. Might ditch the barkbusters and just put some guards on instead, in which case I'll definitely be changing it from stock.

  • coopbronco

Posted November 12, 2008 - 09:02 AM

#5

Im running the ODI grips/trottle tube. I love them, no performance advantage over stock but i like that both sides clamp onto the bars, no need for glue or saftey wire. Also like the removable bar end caps to run with or without barkbusters.

  • Valerie Wilson

Posted November 12, 2008 - 10:09 AM

#6

The only real difference between an aluminum throttle tube and a plastic one is the material. Aluminum is stronger and resitists breaking more.

Now if you go into an aluminum ball bearing one then you'll see a bigger difference in performance, its smoother for sure.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 12, 2008 - 11:04 AM

#7

The aluminum/plastic question, assuming no bearings, is a bit complex, and I don't know that there's a clear winner, although frankly, I favor the plastic ones.

Aluminum is stronger against breakage, but will stay dented if it gets dented against the bars.

Plastic is less dependent on lubricants to work smoothly, and won't wear the cables to a significant extent. It's also less likely to get jammed by dirt between the bars and tube, too.

  • clutchless

Posted November 12, 2008 - 11:27 AM

#8

i wouldn't bother with getting an aluminum one without bearings.

and i wouldn't bother getting the one with bearings unless you already broke your OEM one.

I have used mine on 2 bikes, it's one of those mods that you don't sell with the bike because it goes on any bike you own for the most part.

  • nap__kxf

Posted November 12, 2008 - 07:46 PM

#9

easier to twist, less chance of wrist lock in a race.

i have the pro taper one with bearings.

you can really feel the difference going from my bike to a bike with the OEM tube.

can get scary in whoops and other rough sections when you are really tired.

http://shop.thumpert...fault.asp?p=152

i have the same tube and i haven't had a complaint, only pride. its sooo smooth its unbelievable, a little pricey but worth it in my opinion. i reccomend it for everyone.

  • RCannon

Posted November 12, 2008 - 08:10 PM

#10

The aluminum/plastic question, assuming no bearings, is a bit complex, and I don't know that there's a clear winner, although frankly, I favor the plastic ones.

Aluminum is stronger against breakage, but will stay dented if it gets dented against the bars.

Plastic is less dependent on lubricants to work smoothly, and won't wear the cables to a significant extent. It's also less likely to get jammed by dirt between the bars and tube, too.


I am with you 100% on this one. The bearing versions are cool.
Sometimes I can almost pretend to notice how much less play the assembly has vs the stock plastic parts.

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  • yamaha542

Posted November 13, 2008 - 10:22 AM

#11

if you run bark busters, there is no need for aluminum, the busters will protect your tube from impact. The aluminum ones are a bit smoother, but more money then they are worth. If you ar bark busterless then id say run one and see what you think, there is alot to say for the dent free plastic ones. iv ran both and prefer plastic.

  • RJB

Posted November 15, 2008 - 12:38 AM

#12

if you run bark busters, there is no need for aluminum, the busters will protect your tube from impact. The aluminum ones are a bit smoother, but more money then they are worth. If you ar bark busterless then id say run one and see what you think, there is alot to say for the dent free plastic ones. iv ran both and prefer plastic.


Yeah, problem with barkbusters I've had are the ends getting pushed in and tightening the tube, or getting dirt pushed into where I've had to cut the tube/grip, causing the throttle to stick. Downside is without them, tree branches are a bigger issue. I fall off more than I hit trees, so I personally am questioning their benefit (other than saving my knuckles from buddies' roost). Where we are the 'wait-a-while' or lawyer vine is far more lethal and problematic.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 15, 2008 - 08:37 AM

#13

Yeah, problem with barkbusters I've had are the ends getting pushed in and tightening the tube, or getting dirt pushed into where I've had to cut the tube/grip, causing the throttle to stick.

When I added Cycra Pro Bends to my bike, I cut a hole in the end of the tube, instead of cutting the end off. Then I used a thick steel spacer about 3/8" long that was smaller in diameter than the bars, but too big to fit inside them, between the guard strap and bar as a stand-off. I cut a hole in the end of the grip the size of this spacer.

I have had no trouble with sand in the throttle since adding these, but I also haven't torn up any grips, bent any levers, broken a master cylinder, or had my fingers mashed by the clutch lever when the left bar end stuck in the ground. :thumbsup:

  • gtxkid

Posted November 15, 2008 - 09:27 AM

#14

My outer two finger look very bad from a crash about 8 months ago.
Something to think about.
You are right Gray racer.

  • BlazeNtrigger

Posted November 15, 2008 - 09:35 AM

#15

I got a the Gold Protaper aluminium one with the bearing , best investment in a while , really really smooth throttle operation + it doesn't break like my old plastic one. I dont run barkbusters since I only ride track , I feel barkbusters are suicide on a MX track and I hate the feel.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 15, 2008 - 10:50 AM

#16

"Feel"? What feel? The "feel" is all visual.

  • Kent Rathgeber

Posted November 15, 2008 - 01:27 PM

#17

I run a Tusk aluminum tube with the bushing (at the cable end) and bearing (bar end) and can say that the aluminum tube is tougher and smoother twisting than the plastic stocker.

  • gtxkid

Posted November 15, 2008 - 10:03 PM

#18

I have to plug the end of my bars because i use them as a subtank system for my forks.
Was looking for an easy way to plug the bar ends so i bought plugs made by ZETA.

  • Drinky Chinky

Posted November 15, 2008 - 10:19 PM

#19

I run a joker machine full billet throttle. Its the whole assembly not just the tube,m and I love it. Its so smooth, with the torque of a big bore pinger its dial a wheelie fun

  • Demo_Slug

Posted November 16, 2008 - 10:18 AM

#20

I like the ODI grips a lot. the grips come pre bonded to a throttle tube. makes it super easy to install a fresh plastic trottle tube. and I think a fresh tube feels smoother then an old gritty one.





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