I'd like to upgrade my suspension to accommodate my weight. (200 lbs.) I understand that I have two options for upgrading, valves and springs. I, unfortunatly, need to choose one or the other. Which one would benifit me the most. ...and don't say both, I know that, I'll do the other next when I get the money...
Suspension Upgrade - Valves or Springs
Started by Ike400, Nov 11 2008 04:41 PM
7 replies to this topic
Posted 11 November 2008 - 04:41 PM
I'd like to upgrade my suspension to accommodate my weight. (200 lbs.) I understand that I have two options for upgrading, valves and springs. I, unfortunatly, need to choose one or the other. Which one would benifit me the most. ...and don't say both, I know that, I'll do the other next when I get the money...
Posted 11 November 2008 - 04:47 PM
You need to start with springs. Otherwise you'll be revalving again when you do get springs.
Posted 11 November 2008 - 04:49 PM
I was planning on doing just springs on mine for the same reason. I'm a bit bigger than you (335).
Valves change the dampening effect of the shock or fork. All the dampening will not keep you from bottoming out because your springs are too light.
If you can only do 1 do the springs, But with winter coming up , I would save and have it all done at once. I ran my bike over to John Curea (TT suspension Specialist) whose shop is near Ytown. Mine handles like a dream now.
Valves change the dampening effect of the shock or fork. All the dampening will not keep you from bottoming out because your springs are too light.
If you can only do 1 do the springs, But with winter coming up , I would save and have it all done at once. I ran my bike over to John Curea (TT suspension Specialist) whose shop is near Ytown. Mine handles like a dream now.
Posted 11 November 2008 - 05:00 PM
You can valve a fork/shock to not bottom with the factory spring and your weight but it's going to ride like crap. You can also make a fork/shock somewhat compliant with a spring that's too heavy but then the light valving won't be able to control the stiff spring over the nasty stuff. What you need is the right balance of spring rate and valving to make the bike handle best for you and your riding style and ability. No easy task unless you really know what you're doing.
Posted 11 November 2008 - 05:48 PM
In all reality one compliments the other. But you would be best suited to just re-spring first for your weight.
Posted 11 November 2008 - 05:57 PM
On the 01 S model, do the springs on the front forks first. Then carefully chose an oil that has more viscosity than the OEM stuff.
I have found no reason to change the rear spring.
I am 260 and 6'4" and use the heaviest progressive springs available in front, and then use Cenex Universal Tractor Fluid in the forks as oil on a 2000. Works great for me, but I am not jumping much other than over fences once in a while. The rear assembly had to be recharged with nitrogen after many years, and it works great with just the valving adjustments available on the stock unit.
I ride a mix of gravel, dirt, mud, and some pavement.
I have found no reason to change the rear spring.
I am 260 and 6'4" and use the heaviest progressive springs available in front, and then use Cenex Universal Tractor Fluid in the forks as oil on a 2000. Works great for me, but I am not jumping much other than over fences once in a while. The rear assembly had to be recharged with nitrogen after many years, and it works great with just the valving adjustments available on the stock unit.
I ride a mix of gravel, dirt, mud, and some pavement.
Posted 11 November 2008 - 08:08 PM
Wow Oregonpharmer,, I have an '08 DRZ and was bottoming the rear on big dips in the road, much less actual hard off road riding. I HAD to respring the rear but simply made some adjustments and changed the oil up front. No bottoming now and I've hit some pretty big stuff. I do intend to revalve and spring the front though, just saving my pennys. By the way I'm about 220. Maybe they came with heavier springs in '01??








