plastic grease



12 replies to this topic
  • R_Little

Posted June 26, 2002 - 05:21 AM

#1

I searched the archives but can't find a definative answer.

Should I remove the plastic grease from the linkage bearings on my realtively new WR.

I looks clean, but the needles do not turn with the plastic stuff in.

Also, does anyone know the torque reading forthe lower shock mount bolt. I waiting for my new manual to come from Baja Designs.

Thanks

  • YAMAKAZE

Posted June 26, 2002 - 05:29 AM

#2

45 Ft Lbs on the shock bolt.

Its a very good idea to relube all of the swing arm and linkage bearings with a good Hi-Pressure Molly grease. Done Once a year the bearings are lasting on the average of 4 seasons before replacement. Same thing with your wheel bearings...Pull the outer seals and pack the same grease in there. The seals can pe pushed back in by hand most of the time. Also check your head bearings...Yamaha is notorious for not lubing them properly.

Bonzai :)

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted June 26, 2002 - 05:33 AM

#3

Originally posted by R Little:

Should I remove the plastic grease from the linkage bearings on my realtively new WR.

I looks clean, but the needles do not turn with the plastic stuff in.


Don't do it, man! Just grease them up and they will be fine. Either that, or get all new bearings. Don't just pull the plastic stuff out. It will be more trouble than you want to deal with.

My recollection is that the lower shock mounting bolt should be torqued to something like 5.6 kg-m but I don't have my manual with me to know for sure.

  • MOmilkman

Posted June 26, 2002 - 07:11 AM

#4

Bill,

You might have/or might not have seen my post on my thread "Question about pivot works".

You said something about a swingarm bearing press from Motion Pro. Do you think this is really a necessary tool?
Dont you think you could do the same thing with a large bolt, & some heavy washers?

Just wanting your input on this.

  • YAMAKAZE

Posted June 26, 2002 - 09:01 PM

#5

Darin,

The last time I changed the bearings in my buddies WR it was a disaster. The darn Races were almost welded in place. I busted my knuckles trying to get them out. I do enough damage to myself riding, I don't enjoy being disabled while doing maintenance. I have seen this tool in action at a local dealer. 5 Minutes to remove and 5 minutes to reinstall.....Beats the 1.5 hours plus all the blood of the last attempt.

I'll spend the money and avoid the pain....

Bonzai :)

  • MOmilkman

Posted June 26, 2002 - 09:39 PM

#6

Bill,

If your just concerned about the "taking them out part" Ive already done that and it was a breeze!!!

First, clean as much of the grease from the inside and outside of the swingarm as you can and remove the rubber nipple things (whatever they are for?) from the inside and the seals and take a propane torch to the outside of the swingarm. You dont even have to heat it red hot, just about 1 minute on each side. This will expand the metal ever so slightly and then they just tap out like a wheel bearing.

Trust me, you dont need one to take them out but to put them in,.......eehhhh, I'll have to post back later and let you know how that works out. I dont think that will be a problem either.

I mean were talking about $100 here that you can save for say....2 new Dunlops! (or whatever you run :) )

[ June 26, 2002: Message edited by: MOmilkman ]

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  • R_Little

Posted June 26, 2002 - 03:53 PM

#7

Put me down in the "take the plastic stuff out" camp.

I checked the bottom bearing in the dog bone and it looked like it had never been greased. It was discolored and froze up solid. This on a bike with 20 hrs max, maybe 2 hrs in the wet and never in serious mud. The 3yr old bearings in my DR looked better. It was obvious water was entering the bearing and it was mostly dry. I have officialy lost my faith in this Yamaha "super lube"

Anyway, I pryed the needles out removed the plastic and filled with Belray grease. We will see if it holds up any better.

I just gotta get that shop manual. Been waiting 2 weeks for a shipment from Baja Designs.

Meantime, I'm concerned about 45ftlbs on that shock mount. I know it was not that tight when I removed and am afraid the 1/2 inch of alum threads will pull right out or the dog bone at 45 lbs

Hey, can anyone check their bike or the manual and tell me if the long bolt that mounts the linkage to the frame under the motor has got a washer on the hex end. I don't think so but I want to be sure. Lastly, does the manual show if the inner bearing sleeves on the dog bone need the long "half" on the rt or left side of the bike? I took it apart so many times I don't remember. I would not be surprised if it doesn't matter.

After this I'm gonna tackle the BK mod!

Thanks fellas
R

  • MOmilkman

Posted June 26, 2002 - 06:00 PM

#8

Ok, theres no washer on the head of that bolt but there is on the nut. Is that what you were wanting to know?

  • R_Little

Posted June 27, 2002 - 05:42 AM

#9

Momilkman:

Yes, thanks

  • Portland_650R

Posted June 27, 2002 - 09:44 PM

#10

First thing I do with a new bike is pull both axles,swingarm bolt, and every other lower suspension bolt - and coat them all with waterproof grease. Of course I live here in rain country, but these things come dry. I use Sea-Doo synthetic grease from Bombardier - stickiest stuff I've ever seen.

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted June 27, 2002 - 11:00 AM

#11

Originally posted by R Little:
...Lastly, does the manual show if the inner bearing sleeves on the dog bone need the long "half" on the rt or left side of the bike? I took it apart so many times I don't remember. I would not be surprised if it doesn't matter...


I don't think it matters either, but the exploded parts diagram shows both short "collars" on the "relay arm" going in from the left side.

[ June 27, 2002: Message edited by: Rich in Orlando ]

  • Mark_Cantrell

Posted June 28, 2002 - 03:52 AM

#12

R,

The first time through, I didn't remove the plastic/waxy stuff that holds the pins during manufacturing. I just added more grease thinking it would work down through it. It didn't, at least not very much. I strongly recommend taking it out and just installing pins one at a time in a grease bed.

A few weeks ago I went back in, saw discoloration from running dry, used a pick to push enough strands loose to start getting the needles out, and pulled the entire bearing out of the race. Cleaned race thoroughly with contact cleaner. The races were fine. Cleaned needles (kept in separate bowls). Some were discolored but none rusted or pitted. Laid a thick finger full of grease as a bed in the races and started adding the needles. They stuck in the grease just fine, you don't have to keep them perfectly aligned, the last one will force them all to line up. Add a thick layer of grease over them so entire bearing area is a bed of grease. Grease inside and outside of sleeve and slide over them.

Now I know the plastic isn't keep new grease from the pins. Took about 45 minutes in addition to getting swing arm off and apart. Did it to all bearings in the rear end.

Good luck,
mwc

  • wrooster

Posted June 30, 2002 - 04:14 PM

#13

folks, here's the bearing "cheese" knowledge roundup:
http://www.thumperta...=10&t=005250&p=

jim aka the wrooster, a 250F owner trespassing here :)




 
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