Dr650 Faq
Posted 04 April 2009 - 04:20 AM
Posted 29 April 2009 - 04:28 AM
bigboy292000 said:
We'll see.
I have the same problem. I'm in the process of changing my ISP and I need to be able to edit all of the posts I've made that referrence my web site. Many pictures and how-to's in a lot of useful threads for the DR community. I sent a note to the mods but I have not got anything back but the auto-reply message. I'm sure they are pretty busy..... and I'm sure the pay ain't so great either.
Posted 30 April 2009 - 05:54 AM
http://www.advrider....postcount=23121
Posted 30 April 2009 - 06:50 AM
vfr870 said:
http://www.advrider....postcount=23121
What happens if just the spacer is removed?
Posted 02 May 2009 - 12:22 AM
andmoon said:
Then there's a 30mm gap the spring can flop around in if you accelerate rapidly or otherwise unweight the front.
Posted 04 June 2009 - 06:51 AM
did some work on my 1300km old '09DR650. She reacted very well.
drilled the slide
moved the clip on the needle (equivalent of 1 shim)
set the fuel/air screw properly (was only 3/4 turn out...) - 2.5 turns now.
ground the weld out the header
freeflow exhaust.
according to the dyno built into my ass, performance is way better. did a run the other day with a mate (KLR - same mods as my old KLR), left him standing.
I love my suzuki.
Posted 18 July 2009 - 10:25 PM
Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:17 AM
After a quick inspection, I see there's a kill switch that breaks the ignition circuit on the kick stand. And the jolt is shutting off the engine.
I have not owned a bike since the 80s and did not realize this was an added safety feature,,,my friend's Shadow 100 also has one.
So I removed it and crimped the wires together.
It was probably a Federal mandate after some idiot drove off with the kick stand down and wiped out on the first left turn.....probably the same type of dumb-a$$ who strips Phillips head machine screws because he never figured out that you have to tap them to tighten or loosen them.......
Anyways.....Am I the only one here to despise the kick stand kill switch or have any of you removed yours too.....?
Posted 19 July 2009 - 09:37 AM
Tibarus said:
Nope,,,not without some expensive, expert machining and parts from another older bike.
I mean, there's no hole on the crank case to insert a lever....just better buy a spare starter for when yours goes bad.
Besides, Even if the battery is dead you can push/run start it by popping the clutch in first gear,,,,right..?
Posted 19 July 2009 - 01:45 PM
Glenn61 said:
Sometimes it would stick with the stand down slightly...
Glenn61 said:
3rd to 4th gear - yes.
Posted 15 August 2009 - 11:58 AM
Mine were totally rusted and not working,,,The replacements were crazy expensive.
But I found these after markets that use a single contact bulb,,,which is better because they don't short out like the double contacts on the base of the bulb.
Check these out,,,,$11.99/ set of two.
http://www.motorcycl...-Light-Kit.aspx
Another problem I had was my foot hitting the right rear signal while mounting the bike,,,because of where the stem is located on my DR650,,,right behind the seat.
So, after breaking the plastic stem mount I drilled a hole through the stem, around the mounting bolt and lock wired it into place.
Also,,, I over tightened the screws that hold on the lens.
So I drilled two corresponding holed through the lens and lock wired it on securely.
At 12 buck a pair I can afford an extra set, and they work great...
http://i30.tinypic.com/15hk6k1.jpg
http://i27.tinypic.com/2rnudfc.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/ilkf9f.jpg
www. my space .com/glennsixtyone
Posted 05 October 2009 - 09:12 PM
bigboy292000 said:
We'll see.
In the future, either post up what you want added/changed/removed, and I can handle that for you.
I added the DRZ shock install thread and also the thread about how to bypass the kickstand switch.
Posted 21 October 2009 - 02:36 PM
chickenhauler said:
I added the DRZ shock install thread and also the thread about how to bypass the kickstand switch.
Under Exhaust:
How to repack FMF Q2 (Q4) New link:
http://mxrob.com/FMF_Q2_Rebuild.htm
Posted 22 October 2009 - 09:06 AM
chickenhauler said:
Cool... so do you feel like fixing any of the broken links in my Needle Comparison, FCR or GSXR threads.... they are some of the highest view threads on the DR forum. It is sad to have all those pictures and info missing that I spent so much time on. It is as simple as replacing my old IP addy with HTTP//:mxrob.com/
So for example the addy on page 57 of the Needle thread:
http://www.thumperta...03&postcount=57
https://home.comcast...l_Needles_2.pdf
would need to now be:
http://mxrob.com/ima...l_Needles_2.pdf
I kept the same file format when I changed IP's.
Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:06 PM
mx_rob said:
So for example the addy on page 57 of the Needle thread:
http://www.thumperta...03&postcount=57
https://home.comcast.net/~rshafer9/images/All_Needles_2.pdf
would need to now be:
http://mxrob.com/ima...l_Needles_2.pdf
I kept the same file format when I changed IP's.
Done!:thumbsup:
Posted 04 August 2010 - 08:54 PM
NZDrRider said:
http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Ok, they have arrived and look good. Installed easy as they had bullet connectors so I cut the existing cables and installed bullet connectors on the originals so I can revert at any time. They are 10 watt bulbs though so I will have to either wire in a resistor or a digital flasher unit. These are a cheap unit to minimize breakage costs.
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