Colorado Kid said:
FAQ Master Thread-DO NOT DELETE
Posted 23 April 2009 - 06:01 AM
Posted 11 August 2009 - 02:22 PM
Posted 10 March 2012 - 08:12 PM
Hey guys, here are pics of my clutch rebuild which I just finished.
Since I took the time to put the explanation in the pics themselves, you just need to download the pictures to your computer and you have the rebuild info! All pics are also numbered so you know the intended order (32 pictures total).
This took a lot of time to put together and I'm happy with the results Hopefully you will find it useful as well. (this link is to the individual pictures):
Here's the link to download all 32 pictures in one .pdf file!:
Posted 11 April 2012 - 04:24 PM
Put the carb back on the bike making sure to attach and tighten the clamps that hold the carb in the boots. Air leaks are not good!!
Then carefully re-attach your throttle cables and make sure the throttle is responding without any obstructions. Adjust as necessary. Put on the tank, shrouds and seat. DO NOT PUT THE AIRBOX LID BACK ON UNLESS YOU WANT LESS POWER. FOR THOSE THAT WANT LESS POWER, PUT THE AIRBOX LID ON. THROW AWAY STOCK AIR FILTER AND REPLACE WITH UNI OR TWINAIR. Do not fire up bike with a freshly lubed air filter.
Now fire that baby up!!!! While it's warming up, find a very short flat-blade screwdriver that's fairly narrow. I took one of those stubby screwdrivers that seem to come in every set of screwdrivers that you never end up using and ground it down so that it was narrow enough to get into the pilot screw hole.
This would probably be a good time to pat yourself on the back and enjoy a beverage of choice, but I'm always wary of Murphy, so I usually don't celebrate too soon......
After the bike is good and warm increase the idle speed so that it is idling at a good rate - not too fast, not too slow. Then adjust the pilot screw for maximum RPM at that setting. After doing so, if the idle speed is too fast, return the idle to normal. (SIDE NOTE: See that big thumb screw? It's on there for a reason. When the bike is hard to start, turn it up a turn or turn and a half. Makes hot starting much easier.
If you put in the right MJ for your altitude/weather, put in a dynojet kit with the needle in the correct position, correctly set the idle, cleaned the carb (if it's a used carb), and did the free mods.......
Prepare to have a permanent smile glued to the front of your face. Take er around the block and be amazed. Add a header to the combo and REALLY be amazed.
A couple of additional side notes. As you have the carb apart, it's good to hose everything down with carb cleaner to make sure all the tiny passages are clean. Beware of pulling parts off the carb as sometimes springs and other tiny parts have a tendency to fly across the shop. Consider yourself warned.
While you have the carb apart, also, notice the little needle and seat that is attached to the float. The float turns on and off gas coming into the carb. If there is gunk in this needle/seat, your carb will overflow gas while stopped. Most likely this is the culprit. Rarely will you need to adjust float level, and once you do, you'll probably never need to again, but the seat has a tendency to attract gunk, leading the carb to puke out fuel when stopped. Cleaning it out, or tapping the side of the carb one solution, but I've always just pulled the bowl off quickly (cause I have the hex bolts - remember???) and jiggled the float up and down to free the debris out of the seat. Always seems to do the trick.
Once the smile fades and everything seems normal with the power again.....it's time to look at an FCR!!!
Very nice and concise "how to's"
Thanks Bill, now about that fcr...
I'm ready (bike is 2 days old to me)
Fcrmx from yz 250f, Ive seen. is a 37 enough?
some say 37, 38, or 39?
39's I've seen come of 450's
any others that will (almost) bolt right on?
no pipe yet but searching
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