Master thread for KLX/KLR technical topics.
If you have tech tips, part numbers or any other useful information, please post here.
Thank You.
FAQ Master Thread-DO NOT DELETE
Started by Ud_Luz, Oct 17 2008 06:54 PM
23 replies to this topic
Posted 17 October 2008 - 06:54 PM
Master thread for KLX/KLR technical topics.
If you have tech tips, part numbers or any other useful information, please post here.
Thank You.
Posted 19 October 2008 - 06:28 PM
SHIFT STAR
Listed below is the gasket necessary when swapping out the shift star. The gasket really should be replaced when performing this mod.
TRANSMISSION COVER GASKET 11060-1327
The suggested torque value on the transmission cover bolts is 87 in-lb
This gasket is also now loaded in the TT OEM online catalog so you don't have to go far to buy it.
Pic courtesy of Planet KLX
Enjoy:thumbsup:
Listed below is the gasket necessary when swapping out the shift star. The gasket really should be replaced when performing this mod.
TRANSMISSION COVER GASKET 11060-1327
The suggested torque value on the transmission cover bolts is 87 in-lb
This gasket is also now loaded in the TT OEM online catalog so you don't have to go far to buy it.
Pic courtesy of Planet KLX
Enjoy:thumbsup:
Attached Thumbnails
Posted 21 October 2008 - 07:16 AM
KLX250s cold-starting is problematic with 06/07 KLX.
A jet-ski primer kit ($15) is a simple low$$ fix which is easy to instal.
When it is cold out, prime the bike with a pull/push on the primer knob, put the choke on, and hit the starter. It cranks up immediatly every time.
1) cut the fuel line about 2 inches below the fuel cutoff valve.
2) inserted a "T" connector with a 1/8" connector in the middle.
3) Be sure to use clamps, as you do not want it to come loose.
4) connect up a 4-inch section of fuel line which came with the primer and attached it to the 1/8" T.
5) zip-tied the primer on the mount for the idle-adjust knob.
6) drill a small hole into the top of the plastic air-intake hose imediatly before the carb.
7) glue on a 1/8" fitting into the hole and attached a hose to it. Use goop...it is flexable and fuel resistant.
8) run the hose under the seat and plugged it into the outlet of the primer
Done!
A jet-ski primer kit ($15) is a simple low$$ fix which is easy to instal.
When it is cold out, prime the bike with a pull/push on the primer knob, put the choke on, and hit the starter. It cranks up immediatly every time.
1) cut the fuel line about 2 inches below the fuel cutoff valve.
2) inserted a "T" connector with a 1/8" connector in the middle.
3) Be sure to use clamps, as you do not want it to come loose.
4) connect up a 4-inch section of fuel line which came with the primer and attached it to the 1/8" T.
5) zip-tied the primer on the mount for the idle-adjust knob.
6) drill a small hole into the top of the plastic air-intake hose imediatly before the carb.
7) glue on a 1/8" fitting into the hole and attached a hose to it. Use goop...it is flexable and fuel resistant.
8) run the hose under the seat and plugged it into the outlet of the primer
Done!
Attached Thumbnails
Posted 21 October 2008 - 06:34 PM
http://www.thumperta...725#post5507725
Here's one on replacing the axle clamp bolts using Honda XR400 bolts.
Here's one on replacing the axle clamp bolts using Honda XR400 bolts.
Posted 22 October 2008 - 04:08 PM
KLX 300 (250) CVK carb mods, jetting and adjustments.
These notes are for a KLX300, but most if not all will apply to a KLX250 as well.
The CVK is a little bit different type of carb than many are used to. It uses a vacuum to lift the slide instead of the cable attached to the throttle. This gives a somewhat "disconnected" feel between the throttle and the engine response time. Although sluggish stock, like most 4-strokes, it can be made to perform much better with a little work. Doing these mods for yourself will not only give you a good understanding of how the bike works, but will yield a much improved throttle response and higher HP to boot! A win/win situation!!!
Before taking on a carb tune-up, please note that the carb's circuits are divided into 3 overlapping "zones". Idle to 1/8-1/4 throttle is controlled by the pilot circuit. Off idle bog would be addressed here. 1/8-1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle is controlled by the needle. This circuit is where we ride most of the time, and proper tuning is critical for good performance. 3/4 to wide open throttle is controlled by the main jet. Please note that these overlap and are interactive, but if you are having a problem in any of those areas, the associated circuit is the first place to check out.
Carbs on the 300 have been identical from 96 onward with the exception that currently, most bikes sold in the US have the "CA" (California) jetting. The way to tell if you have CA jetting is to check the needle - if it does NOT have adjustable slots and a circlip, then it is indeed the dreaded CA needle. In the past, only CA bikes had the CA jetting. The CA jetting results in an extremely lean mixture when doing the free mods unless you address and fix jetting first.
IMPORTANT : It is advised that you do NOT do the free mods until you re-jet the standard jetting. The bike will run dangerously lean, and most likely will barely run at all. Do it all at one time. Wait to do the mods until you have time and can afford to re-jet!!!
This is an EASY mod, and if you can remove your carb, you can do this mod. These instructions will help.
Re-jetting the bike requires that you replace the main jet, needle and (much less frequently) the pilot jet as well as make a couple of simple adjustments. Most people opt for replacing the stock jets with a Dyno-Jet kit - and that is my suggestion as well. It is not that expensive and is money well spent. The custom needle in the Dyno-jet kit is superior in every way to the stock needles, and in my opinion is definitely worth the money. If you decide not to go DynoJet, you will need to replace the CA needle with Kawi's "49 state" adjustable needle. Kawi part #'s:
Needle p/n 16009-1912
Brass collar p/n 92143-1667
Needle clip p/n 92037-1401
So......Step 1 is to remove the carb from the bike.
Pull the Seat, Tank and Shrouds. You will need to disconnect the gas line from the carb. Make sure you put out your cigarette before doing this or we will be visiting you in the hospital.
Next, remove the two throttle cables at the carb. IMPORTANT NOTE: try to figure out EXACTLY how many turns you used to remove the cables. Replacement to EXACTLY how they came of is critical for not having your throttle feel "sticky" as one is a push and the other a pull cable. If they are out of adjustment, you will be hating life. If your throttle feels weird, sticky, dirty, sluggish or otherwise not right, fiddling with these two adjustments will most likely fix your throttle and make it "snappy" again. I can't emphasize enough trying to notate exactly their respective positions before pulling them off.
Once the Seat Tank and Shrouds are off, and the throttle cables removed, loosen the clamps on the boots that hold the carb in place.
Pull the rear air box boot back as far as you can and free up the carb for removal. As I recall (I have had an FCR on for quite awhile, so this is from memory) you must pull the carb up to get it out of the frame.
By now you should have sourced either a Dyno-jet kit or the "49 state" needle, and a few main jets.
These notes are for a KLX300, but most if not all will apply to a KLX250 as well.
The CVK is a little bit different type of carb than many are used to. It uses a vacuum to lift the slide instead of the cable attached to the throttle. This gives a somewhat "disconnected" feel between the throttle and the engine response time. Although sluggish stock, like most 4-strokes, it can be made to perform much better with a little work. Doing these mods for yourself will not only give you a good understanding of how the bike works, but will yield a much improved throttle response and higher HP to boot! A win/win situation!!!
Before taking on a carb tune-up, please note that the carb's circuits are divided into 3 overlapping "zones". Idle to 1/8-1/4 throttle is controlled by the pilot circuit. Off idle bog would be addressed here. 1/8-1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle is controlled by the needle. This circuit is where we ride most of the time, and proper tuning is critical for good performance. 3/4 to wide open throttle is controlled by the main jet. Please note that these overlap and are interactive, but if you are having a problem in any of those areas, the associated circuit is the first place to check out.
Carbs on the 300 have been identical from 96 onward with the exception that currently, most bikes sold in the US have the "CA" (California) jetting. The way to tell if you have CA jetting is to check the needle - if it does NOT have adjustable slots and a circlip, then it is indeed the dreaded CA needle. In the past, only CA bikes had the CA jetting. The CA jetting results in an extremely lean mixture when doing the free mods unless you address and fix jetting first.
IMPORTANT : It is advised that you do NOT do the free mods until you re-jet the standard jetting. The bike will run dangerously lean, and most likely will barely run at all. Do it all at one time. Wait to do the mods until you have time and can afford to re-jet!!!
This is an EASY mod, and if you can remove your carb, you can do this mod. These instructions will help.
Re-jetting the bike requires that you replace the main jet, needle and (much less frequently) the pilot jet as well as make a couple of simple adjustments. Most people opt for replacing the stock jets with a Dyno-Jet kit - and that is my suggestion as well. It is not that expensive and is money well spent. The custom needle in the Dyno-jet kit is superior in every way to the stock needles, and in my opinion is definitely worth the money. If you decide not to go DynoJet, you will need to replace the CA needle with Kawi's "49 state" adjustable needle. Kawi part #'s:
Needle p/n 16009-1912
Brass collar p/n 92143-1667
Needle clip p/n 92037-1401
So......Step 1 is to remove the carb from the bike.
Pull the Seat, Tank and Shrouds. You will need to disconnect the gas line from the carb. Make sure you put out your cigarette before doing this or we will be visiting you in the hospital.
Next, remove the two throttle cables at the carb. IMPORTANT NOTE: try to figure out EXACTLY how many turns you used to remove the cables. Replacement to EXACTLY how they came of is critical for not having your throttle feel "sticky" as one is a push and the other a pull cable. If they are out of adjustment, you will be hating life. If your throttle feels weird, sticky, dirty, sluggish or otherwise not right, fiddling with these two adjustments will most likely fix your throttle and make it "snappy" again. I can't emphasize enough trying to notate exactly their respective positions before pulling them off.
Once the Seat Tank and Shrouds are off, and the throttle cables removed, loosen the clamps on the boots that hold the carb in place.
Pull the rear air box boot back as far as you can and free up the carb for removal. As I recall (I have had an FCR on for quite awhile, so this is from memory) you must pull the carb up to get it out of the frame.
By now you should have sourced either a Dyno-jet kit or the "49 state" needle, and a few main jets.
Posted 22 October 2008 - 04:10 PM
Continuing on.......
The stock main jet is a 128. My experience has shown that with a completely uncorked KLX300 - FSW Header, after-market Exhaust Can - or uncorked stocker, Airbox Lid Removed, UNI or TWINAIR air filter - a 132 MJ is usually a good bet from Sea Level to 6500 Feet. At about 7000 Feet, you will start to feel a power loss, and will need to go smaller on the MJ and leaner (clip higher) on the needle, as well as adjusting the pilot screw (more on that later).
Some of the guys in upper elevations 10,000-12,000 + ft in Colorado are running 122 or 125 MJ's. When I ride at Mammoth Lakes (8000-10,000) I usually run a 125-128 MJ. You will need to make a discernment for your altitude and weather conditions. The best thing to do is to check with local shops or others that are in your same locale. All that said, the CVK carb is generally very forgiving and once you get your jetting set, you'll probably never have to change it unless you change altitudes DRASTICALLY.
On a side note, the Dyno-jet MJ sizes are not identical to stock Keihin MJ sizes. A 132 Dyno-jet MJ flows more gas than a 132 Keihin MJ.
So, now to the carb. First off, hit your local hardware store and get some HEX head bolts to replace the float bowl philips head screws. You will be much happier down the road. It makes adjustments with the carb ON the bike much easier. Note the hex head screws in the pic below......
First up - replacing the Main Jet.
The main jet is easily located by pulling the bowl. It CAN be done with the carb on the bike, but is more difficult. But easier with the hex head bolts.
With the hex head bolts in hand, pull the bowl and replace the main jet with your main jet of choice. You will see a large (relatively) brass jet that is up above all the other passageways. It is probably stamped 128 or 132 or ??? That is the main jet. Remove it with a flat blade screwdriver and replace it with your main jet of choice.
Do not over-tighten, but make sure it's not going to fall out. (It happens.) Just remember, it's soft brass and does not require a LOT of torque. There, done! Simple!
Right next to the MJ, there is a recessed passageway with another jet in it. This is the pilot jet. I stole this pic from Harold at PlanetKLX.
Note, the red arrow is pointing to the recessed hole that the pilot jet resides in. The jet itself has been removed and is laying on top of the carb itself. The stock PJ is a 35. Most people stay with the stock pilot, but some feel it is a little on the lean side and replace it with a 42. If you decide to replace the pilot jet, or if you just want to clean it out (advisable if you're not working on a brand new carb and have gone this far), use a longish flat blade screwdriver to remove it carefully. Once removed, please put on some safety glasses before blasting the passageways with carb cleaner. (Lesson learned the hard way......)
As long as we're dealing with the pilot jet, we need to address the pilot jet adjustment screw. Due to EPA BS, the adjustment for this is normally sealed off so that we can't make the bike run right without removing the plug.
On the bottom of the carb, on the engine side, you will find a thin aluminum plug that is plugging the hole to access the recessed pilot screw. In this picture, the plug has already been removed, and you can see the recessed pilot screw that has been already uncovered.
CAREFULLY (and by hand if possible) drill a shallow hole in the plug and use something to pry out the plug. DO NOT DRILL AWAY WITHOUT THINKING. There is a screw below this plug. You do NOT want to damage it. The plug is thin and easily removed. After opening up the passageway, your carb will look like the above picture. Adjust the screw to 2-2.5 turns out from seated as a starting point. We'll talk about tuning it later.....
While you're here, find a nice SHORT screwdriver that will allow you to make adjustments to this screw while the carb is ON the bike. (See my ideas below....)
The stock main jet is a 128. My experience has shown that with a completely uncorked KLX300 - FSW Header, after-market Exhaust Can - or uncorked stocker, Airbox Lid Removed, UNI or TWINAIR air filter - a 132 MJ is usually a good bet from Sea Level to 6500 Feet. At about 7000 Feet, you will start to feel a power loss, and will need to go smaller on the MJ and leaner (clip higher) on the needle, as well as adjusting the pilot screw (more on that later).
Some of the guys in upper elevations 10,000-12,000 + ft in Colorado are running 122 or 125 MJ's. When I ride at Mammoth Lakes (8000-10,000) I usually run a 125-128 MJ. You will need to make a discernment for your altitude and weather conditions. The best thing to do is to check with local shops or others that are in your same locale. All that said, the CVK carb is generally very forgiving and once you get your jetting set, you'll probably never have to change it unless you change altitudes DRASTICALLY.
On a side note, the Dyno-jet MJ sizes are not identical to stock Keihin MJ sizes. A 132 Dyno-jet MJ flows more gas than a 132 Keihin MJ.
So, now to the carb. First off, hit your local hardware store and get some HEX head bolts to replace the float bowl philips head screws. You will be much happier down the road. It makes adjustments with the carb ON the bike much easier. Note the hex head screws in the pic below......
First up - replacing the Main Jet.
The main jet is easily located by pulling the bowl. It CAN be done with the carb on the bike, but is more difficult. But easier with the hex head bolts.
With the hex head bolts in hand, pull the bowl and replace the main jet with your main jet of choice. You will see a large (relatively) brass jet that is up above all the other passageways. It is probably stamped 128 or 132 or ??? That is the main jet. Remove it with a flat blade screwdriver and replace it with your main jet of choice.
Do not over-tighten, but make sure it's not going to fall out. (It happens.) Just remember, it's soft brass and does not require a LOT of torque. There, done! Simple!
Right next to the MJ, there is a recessed passageway with another jet in it. This is the pilot jet. I stole this pic from Harold at PlanetKLX.
Note, the red arrow is pointing to the recessed hole that the pilot jet resides in. The jet itself has been removed and is laying on top of the carb itself. The stock PJ is a 35. Most people stay with the stock pilot, but some feel it is a little on the lean side and replace it with a 42. If you decide to replace the pilot jet, or if you just want to clean it out (advisable if you're not working on a brand new carb and have gone this far), use a longish flat blade screwdriver to remove it carefully. Once removed, please put on some safety glasses before blasting the passageways with carb cleaner. (Lesson learned the hard way......)
As long as we're dealing with the pilot jet, we need to address the pilot jet adjustment screw. Due to EPA BS, the adjustment for this is normally sealed off so that we can't make the bike run right without removing the plug.
On the bottom of the carb, on the engine side, you will find a thin aluminum plug that is plugging the hole to access the recessed pilot screw. In this picture, the plug has already been removed, and you can see the recessed pilot screw that has been already uncovered.
CAREFULLY (and by hand if possible) drill a shallow hole in the plug and use something to pry out the plug. DO NOT DRILL AWAY WITHOUT THINKING. There is a screw below this plug. You do NOT want to damage it. The plug is thin and easily removed. After opening up the passageway, your carb will look like the above picture. Adjust the screw to 2-2.5 turns out from seated as a starting point. We'll talk about tuning it later.....
While you're here, find a nice SHORT screwdriver that will allow you to make adjustments to this screw while the carb is ON the bike. (See my ideas below....)
Attached Thumbnails
Posted 22 October 2008 - 04:12 PM
And continuing on......
Next step.......putting in the Dynojet or 49 state needle and adjusting the needle to your weather / altitude. The top of the carb will come off with the removal of the 4 screws. See the 4 screws on the top of the carb below:
After removing the 4 screws, this is what you will see:
Remove the spring and put it somewhere safe. You will see a black rubber diaphragm. Gently pull on it and the slide, needle and diaphragm assembly will come out in your hand.
To remove the needle, push upward on the needle, and the white plastic cage and needle will pop out of the diaphragm / slide assembly as they have in this pic:
Lay the cage and needle to the side. If you are going to drill the slide this is the time to do it. Use the drill that comes with the dynojet kit to drill the small vacuum hole that resides NEXT TO THE SLIDE. DO NOT DRILL THE SLIDE HOLE. Although the pic is not great, you can see it below the needle / cage in this picture.
Follow the dynojet instructions for the slide modification via drilling.
AT THIS POINT IT WOULD BE WISE TO NOTE THAT DYNOJET KITS AS OF LATE HAVE BEEN DELIVERING NEEDLES THAT ARE VERY, VERY SLIGHTLY TOO LARGE TO COMPLETELY SEAT IN THE SLIDE HOLE. Solution? Either sand down your needle just a bit where it fits thru the hole or slightly open up the hole that the needle goes through. Either way, you want it to fit through smoothly, but without too much "slop".
If you are not using a dynojet kit and are instead replacing the needle with the Kawi "49 state" needle and would like to drill out the slide for increased performance, you can still drill the slide per the dynojet mods.
To do this you drill the hole that the slide needle DOES NOT go thru from the stock hole size of .092" to .116" - OR 2 drill sizes larger. Please keep in mind that drilling the slide is not easily undone. Make sure you know what you are doing.
When replacing the needle, they Dynojet needle the circlip should be in the 4th slot from the top. The washer/collar go on top of the circlip.
Make sure that when putting the needle back in the slide that the white plastic cage feet do not cover the vacuum hole.
For the 49 state needle, the circlip should be in the 3rd slot from the top - or the middle groove of the needle. The washer/collar go on top of the circlip. For any questions in re-assembly order you can go to www.buykawasaki.com and view the parts diaphragm for a break down picture of the carb.
Drop the needle back into the slide, put the collar/washer on top of the needle and the plastic cage on top of the needle assembly, making sure not to cover the vacuum hole with the feet of the cage, then you're ready to put the spring back on.
At this stage, some people like to cut 3-4 coils (or you can zip tie or wire them if you prefer) off the spring to help with improving throttle response.
Put the spring (full or shorter length) back over the needle assembly, put the top back on and you're DONE!!!!!
Yahoo!! Your bike should now look something like this:
All that's left is to adjust the pilot screw once the bike is running.
Next step.......putting in the Dynojet or 49 state needle and adjusting the needle to your weather / altitude. The top of the carb will come off with the removal of the 4 screws. See the 4 screws on the top of the carb below:
After removing the 4 screws, this is what you will see:
Remove the spring and put it somewhere safe. You will see a black rubber diaphragm. Gently pull on it and the slide, needle and diaphragm assembly will come out in your hand.
To remove the needle, push upward on the needle, and the white plastic cage and needle will pop out of the diaphragm / slide assembly as they have in this pic:
Lay the cage and needle to the side. If you are going to drill the slide this is the time to do it. Use the drill that comes with the dynojet kit to drill the small vacuum hole that resides NEXT TO THE SLIDE. DO NOT DRILL THE SLIDE HOLE. Although the pic is not great, you can see it below the needle / cage in this picture.
Follow the dynojet instructions for the slide modification via drilling.
AT THIS POINT IT WOULD BE WISE TO NOTE THAT DYNOJET KITS AS OF LATE HAVE BEEN DELIVERING NEEDLES THAT ARE VERY, VERY SLIGHTLY TOO LARGE TO COMPLETELY SEAT IN THE SLIDE HOLE. Solution? Either sand down your needle just a bit where it fits thru the hole or slightly open up the hole that the needle goes through. Either way, you want it to fit through smoothly, but without too much "slop".
If you are not using a dynojet kit and are instead replacing the needle with the Kawi "49 state" needle and would like to drill out the slide for increased performance, you can still drill the slide per the dynojet mods.
To do this you drill the hole that the slide needle DOES NOT go thru from the stock hole size of .092" to .116" - OR 2 drill sizes larger. Please keep in mind that drilling the slide is not easily undone. Make sure you know what you are doing.
When replacing the needle, they Dynojet needle the circlip should be in the 4th slot from the top. The washer/collar go on top of the circlip.
Make sure that when putting the needle back in the slide that the white plastic cage feet do not cover the vacuum hole.
For the 49 state needle, the circlip should be in the 3rd slot from the top - or the middle groove of the needle. The washer/collar go on top of the circlip. For any questions in re-assembly order you can go to www.buykawasaki.com and view the parts diaphragm for a break down picture of the carb.
Drop the needle back into the slide, put the collar/washer on top of the needle and the plastic cage on top of the needle assembly, making sure not to cover the vacuum hole with the feet of the cage, then you're ready to put the spring back on.
At this stage, some people like to cut 3-4 coils (or you can zip tie or wire them if you prefer) off the spring to help with improving throttle response.
Put the spring (full or shorter length) back over the needle assembly, put the top back on and you're DONE!!!!!
Yahoo!! Your bike should now look something like this:
All that's left is to adjust the pilot screw once the bike is running.
Attached Thumbnails
Posted 22 October 2008 - 04:13 PM
And the last of it.......
Put the carb back on the bike making sure to attach and tighten the clamps that hold the carb in the boots. Air leaks are not good!!
Then carefully re-attach your throttle cables and make sure the throttle is responding without any obstructions. Adjust as necessary. Put on the tank, shrouds and seat. DO NOT PUT THE AIRBOX LID BACK ON UNLESS YOU WANT LESS POWER. FOR THOSE THAT WANT LESS POWER, PUT THE AIRBOX LID ON. THROW AWAY STOCK AIR FILTER AND REPLACE WITH UNI OR TWINAIR. Do not fire up bike with a freshly lubed air filter.
Now fire that baby up!!!! While it's warming up, find a very short flat-blade screwdriver that's fairly narrow. I took one of those stubby screwdrivers that seem to come in every set of screwdrivers that you never end up using and ground it down so that it was narrow enough to get into the pilot screw hole.
This would probably be a good time to pat yourself on the back and enjoy a beverage of choice, but I'm always wary of Murphy, so I usually don't celebrate too soon......
After the bike is good and warm increase the idle speed so that it is idling at a good rate - not too fast, not too slow. Then adjust the pilot screw for maximum RPM at that setting. After doing so, if the idle speed is too fast, return the idle to normal. (SIDE NOTE: See that big thumb screw? It's on there for a reason. When the bike is hard to start, turn it up a turn or turn and a half. Makes hot starting much easier.
Now......
If you put in the right MJ for your altitude/weather, put in a dynojet kit with the needle in the correct position, correctly set the idle, cleaned the carb (if it's a used carb), and did the free mods.......
Prepare to have a permanent smile glued to the front of your face. Take er around the block and be amazed. Add a header to the combo and REALLY be amazed.
A couple of additional side notes. As you have the carb apart, it's good to hose everything down with carb cleaner to make sure all the tiny passages are clean. Beware of pulling parts off the carb as sometimes springs and other tiny parts have a tendency to fly across the shop. Consider yourself warned.
While you have the carb apart, also, notice the little needle and seat that is attached to the float. The float turns on and off gas coming into the carb. If there is gunk in this needle/seat, your carb will overflow gas while stopped. Most likely this is the culprit. Rarely will you need to adjust float level, and once you do, you'll probably never need to again, but the seat has a tendency to attract gunk, leading the carb to puke out fuel when stopped. Cleaning it out, or tapping the side of the carb one solution, but I've always just pulled the bowl off quickly (cause I have the hex bolts - remember???) and jiggled the float up and down to free the debris out of the seat. Always seems to do the trick.
Once the smile fades and everything seems normal with the power again.....it's time to look at an FCR!!!
Cheers,
Bill_P
Put the carb back on the bike making sure to attach and tighten the clamps that hold the carb in the boots. Air leaks are not good!!
Then carefully re-attach your throttle cables and make sure the throttle is responding without any obstructions. Adjust as necessary. Put on the tank, shrouds and seat. DO NOT PUT THE AIRBOX LID BACK ON UNLESS YOU WANT LESS POWER. FOR THOSE THAT WANT LESS POWER, PUT THE AIRBOX LID ON. THROW AWAY STOCK AIR FILTER AND REPLACE WITH UNI OR TWINAIR. Do not fire up bike with a freshly lubed air filter.
Now fire that baby up!!!! While it's warming up, find a very short flat-blade screwdriver that's fairly narrow. I took one of those stubby screwdrivers that seem to come in every set of screwdrivers that you never end up using and ground it down so that it was narrow enough to get into the pilot screw hole.
This would probably be a good time to pat yourself on the back and enjoy a beverage of choice, but I'm always wary of Murphy, so I usually don't celebrate too soon......
After the bike is good and warm increase the idle speed so that it is idling at a good rate - not too fast, not too slow. Then adjust the pilot screw for maximum RPM at that setting. After doing so, if the idle speed is too fast, return the idle to normal. (SIDE NOTE: See that big thumb screw? It's on there for a reason. When the bike is hard to start, turn it up a turn or turn and a half. Makes hot starting much easier.
Now......
If you put in the right MJ for your altitude/weather, put in a dynojet kit with the needle in the correct position, correctly set the idle, cleaned the carb (if it's a used carb), and did the free mods.......
Prepare to have a permanent smile glued to the front of your face. Take er around the block and be amazed. Add a header to the combo and REALLY be amazed.
A couple of additional side notes. As you have the carb apart, it's good to hose everything down with carb cleaner to make sure all the tiny passages are clean. Beware of pulling parts off the carb as sometimes springs and other tiny parts have a tendency to fly across the shop. Consider yourself warned.
While you have the carb apart, also, notice the little needle and seat that is attached to the float. The float turns on and off gas coming into the carb. If there is gunk in this needle/seat, your carb will overflow gas while stopped. Most likely this is the culprit. Rarely will you need to adjust float level, and once you do, you'll probably never need to again, but the seat has a tendency to attract gunk, leading the carb to puke out fuel when stopped. Cleaning it out, or tapping the side of the carb one solution, but I've always just pulled the bowl off quickly (cause I have the hex bolts - remember???) and jiggled the float up and down to free the debris out of the seat. Always seems to do the trick.
Once the smile fades and everything seems normal with the power again.....it's time to look at an FCR!!!
Cheers,
Bill_P
Posted 23 October 2008 - 07:43 AM
FORK SEALS:
Here's my "how to" on replacing the fork seals from a 2004 post (sorry, no pics):
http://www.thumperta...458#post1335458
With additional input (same thread):
http://www.thumperta...450#post1336450
and a noted clarification (same thread):
http://www.thumperta...439#post1337439
Here's my "how to" on replacing the fork seals from a 2004 post (sorry, no pics):
http://www.thumperta...458#post1335458
With additional input (same thread):
http://www.thumperta...450#post1336450
and a noted clarification (same thread):
http://www.thumperta...439#post1337439
Posted 23 October 2008 - 07:54 PM
Here is a link to maier's website with their "mx style rear fender" for the klx.
http://www.maier-mfg...&modelyear=1999
Here is the maier fender part#14541. Also seen is the baja designs LED tail light #60-2020
http://www.maier-mfg...&modelyear=1999
Here is the maier fender part#14541. Also seen is the baja designs LED tail light #60-2020
Posted 24 October 2008 - 08:46 PM
2001 KLX 300 CLUTCH PLATE REPLACEMENT / SERVICE
Hey guys, here are pics of my clutch rebuild which I just finished.
Since I took the time to put the explanation in the pics themselves, you just need to download the pictures to your computer and you have the rebuild info! All pics are also numbered so you know the intended order (32 pictures total).
This took a lot of time to put together and I'm happy with the results
Hopefully you will find it useful as well. 
(this link is to the individual pictures):
http://s110.photobuc...utch%20Rebuild/
Here's the link to download all 32 pictures in one .pdf file!:
http://www.mediafire.com/?wmnyywawj3b
Hey guys, here are pics of my clutch rebuild which I just finished.
Since I took the time to put the explanation in the pics themselves, you just need to download the pictures to your computer and you have the rebuild info! All pics are also numbered so you know the intended order (32 pictures total).
This took a lot of time to put together and I'm happy with the results
Hopefully you will find it useful as well. (this link is to the individual pictures):http://s110.photobuc...utch%20Rebuild/
Here's the link to download all 32 pictures in one .pdf file!:
http://www.mediafire.com/?wmnyywawj3b
Posted 24 October 2008 - 10:12 PM
RAM -
AWESOME!!!!!!
Killer writeup and pics. I can't wait to go thru it in more detail. Gas and KUDO's to you!!!!!
AWESOME!!!!!!
Killer writeup and pics. I can't wait to go thru it in more detail. Gas and KUDO's to you!!!!!
Posted 29 October 2008 - 02:19 PM
JasonFMX said:
What turn signals are those above on that rear MX fender?
http://www.sicassrac...n&ppinc=search2
Those look like the DMS series available here: http://www.procycle....skits/dskit.htm
Posted 03 November 2008 - 09:43 PM
FIX YOUR SMASHED EXHAUST PIPE!!!
Found these on another forum. They seem Very useful. The before and after pictures on both sites are incredible! check them out!
Okay, for some conspiracy reason, the first link is blanked out by the TT system. Seems like censorship with no explanation. Nothing like a little "big brother" action here.
Anyway, read between the lines, but here it is:
www (dot) motocrosspiperepair (dot) com
AND: here' the second site for pipe repair (which is apparently acceptable to the TT system):
http://piperepair.com/
Found these on another forum. They seem Very useful. The before and after pictures on both sites are incredible! check them out!
Okay, for some conspiracy reason, the first link is blanked out by the TT system. Seems like censorship with no explanation. Nothing like a little "big brother" action here.
Anyway, read between the lines, but here it is:
www (dot) motocrosspiperepair (dot) com
AND: here' the second site for pipe repair (which is apparently acceptable to the TT system):
http://piperepair.com/
Posted 09 November 2008 - 11:43 AM
CO KLX Rider said:
SHIFT STAR
Listed below is the gasket necessary when swapping out the shift star. The gasket really should be replaced when performing this mod.
TRANSMISSION COVER GASKET 11060-1327
The suggested torque value on the transmission cover bolts is 87 in-lb
This gasket is also now loaded in the TT OEM online catalog so you don't have to go far to buy it.
Pic courtesy of Planet KLX
Enjoy:thumbsup:
Listed below is the gasket necessary when swapping out the shift star. The gasket really should be replaced when performing this mod.
TRANSMISSION COVER GASKET 11060-1327
The suggested torque value on the transmission cover bolts is 87 in-lb
This gasket is also now loaded in the TT OEM online catalog so you don't have to go far to buy it.
Pic courtesy of Planet KLX
Enjoy:thumbsup:
Posted 02 December 2008 - 08:40 PM
Installing Trail Techs eclipse X2 on a 07 KLX300r.
Light kit # 36T6-70, switch/wire harness #3600-PWH
klx sticker # 3600-SKLX
You will also need cable ties, Male/female blue crimp Bullet connectors. Scrap wire. According to my wiring diagram The wire colors should be the same in previous model years. Also, I installed a LED tail light bulb to conserve wattage. red works best under a red lens.
I am sure that there are several easier ways to accomplish the same goal. I did it as to keep all the stock connectors in place in case you wanted to replace the stock head light and kill switch.
Head light kit and harness. light Kit comes with plastic Roost protector and white background sticker. KLX one looks Cooler.
First you will have to remove the stock head light assembly. headlight switch, Kill switch. Unplug bullet connectors behind head light and bullet connectors on left side of frame next to tank. Also remove rad. shrouds, fuel tank, seat, left side cover. clip all cable ties holding wires to bars and left side of frame. Thats my Trail Tech vapor attached to the stock odometer mount. Later on the vapor power wire will plug into the new blue wire for the back light. I'll describe it in a later photo. Thats if you have a vapor installed.
These are the 3 bullet connectors on side of frame that should already be unplugged. yellow, red, black/white.
Remove the 2 black ground wires from the bolt holding on coil. one is the kill switch wire the other is the light switch.
Yellow is 12+, red is tail light feed, black/white is ignition kill. Remember this.
All handle bar wiring should now be removed. Install the new switch on the left handle bar. throttle cables in the way on right. Route new harness down bars to new light location. And finish running down left side of frame to locate fuse end under seat. Dont cable tie anything till your done!
This section of harness is for the kill switch. Black with ring connector goes under coil bolt (ground). red routes to the black/white unplugged earlier next to frame. You will have to cut off the connector on the red wire and crimp on a new male bullet connector. plug new red wire into black/white wire.
The individual blue wire is the tail light power feed. It is not long enough. Add a similar size gauge wire to extend and run down the frame to the red stock wire crimp on a new male bullet connector and plug into the red wire. NOTE** keep your front wheel turned to the right and allow for enough wire slack. dont want to tear everything apart the first right turn you make.
kill switch red to black/ white
kill switch black wire to ground.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0176_12.jpg
Extend blue with new bullet connector.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0177_13.jpg
Other end of blue wire plugged into red for tail light.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0179_14.jpg
Run trail tech harness along with stock harness to locate fuse under seat. Temp tape to stock harness to hold in place.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0180_15.jpg
This is what you should have under the seat.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0181_16.jpg
Ground black ring terminal to frame. I used a self drilling screw to the cross brace under seat frame. Cut off red ring terminal, extend a piece of same size wire and run it back toward the front of bike with stock harness and plug this wire with a new male bullet into the Yellow stock 12+ on side of frame. You are probably wondering why I put the power connection under the seat for easy access? If some day I want to go D/C power these will go to the battery. Thats what I call thinking ahead.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0183_22.jpg
Extended red wire from fuse plugs into Yellow stock wire.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0184_21.jpg
All wiring is finished and you should have all stock wires with a new wire in them. Dont forget to tighten the coil ground bolt. Install lower support bracket how ever you want. I use a fender bag, so I used a piece of 3/4x1/16 aluminum angle and bolted it to the unused threaded hole on the triple tree. this will raise the head light and aid in aiming. **NOTE** If you have a vapor installed, See the skinny red wire plugged into the connector. This is the Vapor power wire as described earlier. The vapor back light will only be on when the head light is on.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0185_20.jpg
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0186_19.jpg
Remove upper stock cable guide. the one with two bolts in it. install new cable guide supplied with kit over front brake hose. Install new head light assembly and screw new guide to the back of it. It only goes one way. Plug in new light to new harness connector.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0187_18.jpg
You are almost there. finish installing light. route wires and provide enough slack. Replace all previously cut cable ties. Put the bike back together. and try it out. Low is 2" spot only, High is both lights at same time. Mine was wrong from the factory. I had to swap the wire connectors in the light assembly. start engine and check new kill switch operation. Any questions please ask. Dont second guess.
Light kit # 36T6-70, switch/wire harness #3600-PWH
klx sticker # 3600-SKLX
You will also need cable ties, Male/female blue crimp Bullet connectors. Scrap wire. According to my wiring diagram The wire colors should be the same in previous model years. Also, I installed a LED tail light bulb to conserve wattage. red works best under a red lens.
I am sure that there are several easier ways to accomplish the same goal. I did it as to keep all the stock connectors in place in case you wanted to replace the stock head light and kill switch.
Head light kit and harness. light Kit comes with plastic Roost protector and white background sticker. KLX one looks Cooler.
First you will have to remove the stock head light assembly. headlight switch, Kill switch. Unplug bullet connectors behind head light and bullet connectors on left side of frame next to tank. Also remove rad. shrouds, fuel tank, seat, left side cover. clip all cable ties holding wires to bars and left side of frame. Thats my Trail Tech vapor attached to the stock odometer mount. Later on the vapor power wire will plug into the new blue wire for the back light. I'll describe it in a later photo. Thats if you have a vapor installed.
These are the 3 bullet connectors on side of frame that should already be unplugged. yellow, red, black/white.
Remove the 2 black ground wires from the bolt holding on coil. one is the kill switch wire the other is the light switch.
Yellow is 12+, red is tail light feed, black/white is ignition kill. Remember this.
All handle bar wiring should now be removed. Install the new switch on the left handle bar. throttle cables in the way on right. Route new harness down bars to new light location. And finish running down left side of frame to locate fuse end under seat. Dont cable tie anything till your done!
This section of harness is for the kill switch. Black with ring connector goes under coil bolt (ground). red routes to the black/white unplugged earlier next to frame. You will have to cut off the connector on the red wire and crimp on a new male bullet connector. plug new red wire into black/white wire.
The individual blue wire is the tail light power feed. It is not long enough. Add a similar size gauge wire to extend and run down the frame to the red stock wire crimp on a new male bullet connector and plug into the red wire. NOTE** keep your front wheel turned to the right and allow for enough wire slack. dont want to tear everything apart the first right turn you make.
kill switch red to black/ white
kill switch black wire to ground.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0176_12.jpg
Extend blue with new bullet connector.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0177_13.jpg
Other end of blue wire plugged into red for tail light.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0179_14.jpg
Run trail tech harness along with stock harness to locate fuse under seat. Temp tape to stock harness to hold in place.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0180_15.jpg
This is what you should have under the seat.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0181_16.jpg
Ground black ring terminal to frame. I used a self drilling screw to the cross brace under seat frame. Cut off red ring terminal, extend a piece of same size wire and run it back toward the front of bike with stock harness and plug this wire with a new male bullet into the Yellow stock 12+ on side of frame. You are probably wondering why I put the power connection under the seat for easy access? If some day I want to go D/C power these will go to the battery. Thats what I call thinking ahead.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0183_22.jpg
Extended red wire from fuse plugs into Yellow stock wire.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0184_21.jpg
All wiring is finished and you should have all stock wires with a new wire in them. Dont forget to tighten the coil ground bolt. Install lower support bracket how ever you want. I use a fender bag, so I used a piece of 3/4x1/16 aluminum angle and bolted it to the unused threaded hole on the triple tree. this will raise the head light and aid in aiming. **NOTE** If you have a vapor installed, See the skinny red wire plugged into the connector. This is the Vapor power wire as described earlier. The vapor back light will only be on when the head light is on.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0185_20.jpg
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0186_19.jpg
Remove upper stock cable guide. the one with two bolts in it. install new cable guide supplied with kit over front brake hose. Install new head light assembly and screw new guide to the back of it. It only goes one way. Plug in new light to new harness connector.
http://i249.photobuc...IMG_0187_18.jpg
You are almost there. finish installing light. route wires and provide enough slack. Replace all previously cut cable ties. Put the bike back together. and try it out. Low is 2" spot only, High is both lights at same time. Mine was wrong from the factory. I had to swap the wire connectors in the light assembly. start engine and check new kill switch operation. Any questions please ask. Dont second guess.
Posted 02 December 2008 - 09:47 PM
Part 2 only 20 pics allowed.
This is the light with the klx sticker attached. Notice bottom of light is not sitting on top of fender. plenty of clearance for my fender bag. If I had it on there. dont want to block any light.
Street with 2" low beam spot only. This is at 4000 RPM
This is high beams both headlights on at 4000 RPM
Aim your new light by sliding the bottom black bracket or select a new hole for the mounting pins. Dont hesitate to ask any questions just send me a PM. Go Green. Let The Good Times Roll, Even in the dark!!! Sweeeeet.. Colorado Kid
This is the light with the klx sticker attached. Notice bottom of light is not sitting on top of fender. plenty of clearance for my fender bag. If I had it on there. dont want to block any light.
Street with 2" low beam spot only. This is at 4000 RPM
This is high beams both headlights on at 4000 RPM
Aim your new light by sliding the bottom black bracket or select a new hole for the mounting pins. Dont hesitate to ask any questions just send me a PM. Go Green. Let The Good Times Roll, Even in the dark!!! Sweeeeet..
Colorado Kid
