oil pressure check bolt

15 replies to this topic
  • benston89

Posted October 13, 2008 - 06:37 PM


my oil pressure check bolt snapped, I got it out but need to get a new one. What is the part number?

  • matt4x4

Posted October 14, 2008 - 03:46 AM


Depends on teh year of your bike - check the online parts fiche at OEM resellers.

  • broccoli2

Posted October 14, 2008 - 05:01 AM


This is the best way I have found to check for part numbers and price.. I use this all the time. The price might not apply to you, being in BC and all, but a good reference none the less..


  • 02WR426Cali

Posted October 14, 2008 - 06:17 AM


They will probably charge like $6 for that oem bolt. You can go to a good hardware/ industrial supply store and get the same thing for like $.50 or less.

  • MountainMax

Posted October 14, 2008 - 07:37 AM


sounds like someone put it too tight, lol

  • matt4x4

Posted October 14, 2008 - 11:17 AM


I think they fatigue easily - when I rebuilt the bike and started putting everything back on - one of those broke at half the recommended torque, dealer doesn't stock them, no one else carries them - no harware stores, nothing - especially on a saturday (The Dealer also wouldn't sell me one off the showroom floor and replace theirs on Monday - acted like someone was going to come in in the last hour of the day and buy the bike!).

I made my own - at least I was able to ride - once teh replacement came in I swapped them out but am keeping the one I made as a just in case part.

  • William1

Posted October 14, 2008 - 02:22 PM


That bolt never needs to be removed unless you think there is a problem. Routinely removing it to check for flow is pointless. You could check it and two minutes later, the oil pump could cease pumping. I only remove check bolts when a new engine is built to ensure flow and then afterwards, only when oil flow is suspect.

  • MountainMax

Posted October 14, 2008 - 02:34 PM


the reason to remove it, is to let it bleed the air out of the system, not to check to see if the pump is working.....

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • William1

Posted October 14, 2008 - 03:20 PM


Absolutely no need to bleed the oiling system.

  • oldmanx

Posted October 15, 2008 - 08:07 AM


Absolutely no need to bleed the oiling system.

Not trying to be a SA, but why would it state in the manual to bleed until oil flows after every oil change?

  • matt4x4

Posted October 15, 2008 - 08:28 AM


That is absolutely not necessary - if you shut your bike down the oil will drain to it's lowest spots and sit there until the pump rotates again - the system is by no means "sealed internally" and wouldn't stop oil from bleeding back down anyways.
When you drain your oil, you're not draining any more than what's ran back into the bottom of the case anyways (and of course the frame) - if you want to get crazy and remove all your external oil lines and drip drain them too (whatever might hold a ML or two) go ahead but it's just a waste of time, and as soon as you fire it up - unless you have a blockage somewhere - they will fill right up again. Sure - it might give you a cleaner oil system for about 5 seconds, but if it took 1/2 hour to drip drain every line - is it really worth it?

  • William1

Posted October 15, 2008 - 01:10 PM


Lets say you changed the oil and filter. Did you notice the filter cavity was not full when you removed the cover?
So you put in a new filter, the oil filter cavity is full of air. You start the bike. All the air gets pumped through the passage ways in about 1 second. As matt4x4 states, when you shut the bike down, often the cavity drains back and partially fills with air. So if you feel bleeding is needed, you should do it every time you start the bike. Silly isn't it?

  • MountainMax

Posted October 15, 2008 - 01:13 PM


I guess the engineers who wrote the manual are all wrong then, I'll listen you you guys instead, NOT!

  • William1

Posted October 15, 2008 - 03:38 PM


LOL, if it makes you more comfortable, then do it. But if the threads get worn out/stripped, the bolt breaks off or vibrates out.....

  • matt4x4

Posted October 16, 2008 - 04:38 AM


Well, if it makes you more comfortable - do as the engineers say, I mean, in all my life, I don't think I've EVER met an engineer who was wrong.

I think that judging from the amount of 400's still ticking and the minimal maintenance MOST owners actually do on the bikes, my guess is you're going to be pretty safe without the check, but if it lets you sleep better at night.....

If you did everything as the manual states, at every interval the manual tells you to do it - you would never have a chance to ride the bike.

  • minty0_10

Posted October 16, 2008 - 01:05 PM


I guess the engineers who wrote the manual are all wrong then, I'll listen you you guys instead, NOT!

mate my genuine manual tells me that with a oil and filter change it takes 1100mil.
with 1100 mill in its over the max mark on the dip stick now that cant be right can it?

of corse i may be wrong maybe a us and uk litre is a different amount. (mines a us manual)

point being dont always beleave what you read in books. look how many people there are on this site alone that never checks this bolt.
i dont even know where it is of heard of it untill now.


Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.