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1990 Husqvarna 510tc


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Hi, i have recently purchased a 1990 510 tc. Could someone please give me some advise on how to start it (kickstart). I,ve kicked it about 200 times now and have only managed to start it about ten times.Is there any way of fitting a electric start onto it as it,s road registered and i don,t wanna be stalling it in town and not be able to start it again.there is plenty of compression and a good spark and new fuel.

much thanks.:lame:

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Yes, there are some techniques to starting these beasts.

I would search on "uptite" posts on this board. I think George gone over this before from what I recall.

If not, he might post on this thread. There are a few other guys that ought to know from first hand experience too.... :lame:

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If it is anything like my bike, what you do is this:

Set the enricher lever on the dell'Orto carb to it's enrich position- lever down to vertical.

Pull in the compression release lever and kick through six or ten times with the compression lever pulled.

Close the enricher.

Kick the bike to where you hit compression and can't kick it any farther.

Pull the release lever and nudge the kicker past where it stopped. It will feel like it pops past and hits up against another bit of compression. It is hard to explain but you will get a feel for it. You don't want to kick past the next compression point and it isn't very far.

Then you release the kick start lever to get it back up as high as you can.

Kick down on it good and hard and the bike will usually start.

Leave it alone for a bit. If you mess with the throttle, my bike has a bad habit of backfiring and blowing the carb off its boot. It is a pain in the butt when it happens.

I don't know if it is how they all are, but it works for my bike. It sometimes takes a similar routine to get it to start when the motor is hot, too. Sometimes it doesn't want to hot start at all, but that's a carburetion problem I haven't completely sorted yet.

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If it is anything like my bike, what you do is this:

Set the enricher lever on the dell'Orto carb to it's enrich position- lever down to vertical.

Pull in the compression release lever and kick through six or ten times with the compression lever pulled.

Close the enricher.

Kick the bike to where you hit compression and can't kick it any farther.

Pull the release lever and nudge the kicker past where it stopped. It will feel like it pops past and hits up against another bit of compression. It is hard to explain but you will get a feel for it. You don't want to kick past the next compression point and it isn't very far.

Then you release the kick start lever to get it back up as high as you can.

Kick down on it good and hard and the bike will usually start.

Leave it alone for a bit. If you mess with the throttle, my bike has a bad habit of backfiring and blowing the carb off its boot. It is a pain in the butt when it happens.

I don't know if it is how they all are, but it works for my bike. It sometimes takes a similar routine to get it to start when the motor is hot, too. Sometimes it doesn't want to hot start at all, but that's a carburetion problem I haven't completely sorted yet.

I've got a 94 that doesn't have the compression issue yet...haven't had to use the lever since I bought it 3 years ago however, I do have to "fiddle" with the "choke". I flip it "on" (horizontal position), kick it. If it doesn't start, turn it off (Vertical position) and no throttle...Once you get it started you've got to remember the sequence you went through in hopes that it repeats it's self!

Good Luck...Oh, and the left side kick is great especially when it doesn't start right away isn't it?

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Will try these techniques this saturday as my foot still has,nt recovered from last weeks kicking. gonna fit a side stand on the right side aswell so it makes it a bit easier.keep u all in touch and thanks for the replys. :D)

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I have a 1998 Te 410 and when cold it starts every time with the choke on no throttle and kick

But hot is another story, if you start it quickly then it will start with nothing extra, but if you let it sit for a few minutes it seems to flood. So what I do is take breaks on hills and roll start it. If I eat crap at the bottom of a hill then I turn the fuel off let it sit and start it before I turn the fuel bad on. But I am rather impatient....LOL

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  • 3 weeks later...

30102008239.jpgmanaged to get it started 1st kick the other day,drove it to the garage for fuel(approx 1/4 mile). then it started 2nd kick, rode it up a few fields for about 15 mins and then stopped for a smoke. could not get it started at all then, i think its flooding itself as i could smell petrol,so i turned the petrol off and tilted the bike so the petrol drained from the carb, started after about 4 kics then. i read somewhere that it would start much better if i changed the carb to a more modern 1, is this true? and if so what sort of one should i look at getting?

much thanks. foots still sore by the way.:worthy:

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Don't change the carb it's a good one, meaning much simpler than the modern ones. Besides that it's paid for.

Does your bike have a cable running down to the K-start can't tell from the picture? If so it is very important to adjust this cable to 1mm free play. This is the auto decompresser on this model. When adjusted properly all you have to do is put your foot on the k lever and kick it, if not must use the manual decomp lever on the bars. Most will tell you push on k start lever until at TDC then pull decomp lever. It's not TDC what is happening is the valves are all closed and starting to build comp so by pulling the decomp lever you are opening the exh valve releaving the comp built up. Heres how to do it push on k lever it gets hard pull decomp lever push down 1" more on k lever return k lever to top of stroke release decomp lever now kick it. NO THROTTLE

Assuming the compression is good,valves set ,throttle cable adjusted (not holding slide up) choke cable having slack in it. Get it started ride it until it's hot. Set the idle speed to where it is at a very low idling speed. The big knob is idle speed and the small screw in front of it is the mixture screw, At a low idle screw mixture in clockwise until it wanst to stumble or start to die, remember this position now go ccwise until it does the samething now put it in the middle of these 2 points, if while doing this it starts to idle higher adjust the idle back down to a very low idle with the idle speed screw. Continue until you can get it to fall off on both ends of the adjustment then set it in the middle of these points, now adjust your idle speed back up to where you want it.

You have to learn how to listen to the bike it will tell you whats up. If you kick it more than 10 times, pull the comp release hold it in throttle WFO kick it a few times if it gives a backfire thru the pipe do it again ( it just told you to rich) now it should start. If nothing happens when doing this means no fuel so choke it somemore.

Another senerio, you kick it and it fires(sounds like it wants to go but doesn't) but doesn't start turn in the Idle speed screw 1 full turn,kick it again if same turn in 1/2 more turn now it will start but DO NOT touch the throttle when it does just wait for a few seconds now SNEAK up on the throttle bairly wiggle it once it takes the revs turn the Idle speed back down and your good to go. These hints are of course is how it's done if all is good with the bike. Later George

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