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CRF 450 Transmission Oil


5 replies to this topic
  • Honky

Posted September 21, 2008 - 05:14 AM

#1

Hey,

I'm new to the whole thumper scene, having only picked up an 04 CRF450R in sweet cond 2 days ago. Was just wanting to give the bike a standard oil/filter service before riding just for piece of mind. Whats the go with the tranny oil, do you use the same grade as the engine oil (SAE 20W-50). Like I said Ive always been on a 2 pot screamer, so please excuse my ignorance. One other thing ,how often should I replace the engine oil/filter?? Ive had advice ranging from 2hrs - 8hrs? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

  • CamP

Posted September 21, 2008 - 05:55 AM

#2

What you used in your 2-stroke tranny will work fine in the CRF gearbox.

Engine oil should last 6-8 hours under normal riding conditions. I replace the oil filter every other oil change.

  • 15YZ250

Posted September 21, 2008 - 01:54 PM

#3

I use Honda's HP4S 10w-30(FULL SYN) for the engine
For the trany I use Honda's 80/85w gear oil.
I change every 3 to 4 hours and oil filter every other time.
You don't need 20w-50 unless your rideing in extreme heat. You will end up with cold start up wear, because the thick oil flows slow. HP4S can handle extreme heat any way.

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  • CamP

Posted September 21, 2008 - 02:41 PM

#4

I use Honda's HP4S 10w-30(FULL SYN) for the engine
For the trany I use Honda's 80/85w gear oil.
I change every 3 to 4 hours and oil filter every other time.
You don't need 20w-50 unless your rideing in extreme heat. You will end up with cold start up wear, because the thick oil flows slow. HP4S can handle extreme heat any way.


The problem with 10w30 is that it will shear out of viscosity very quickly. That's not a problem if you like to change oil all the time. 10w40 will provide longer service intervals. 20w50 is fine and it won't increase cold stat wear. That's all I've ever run during the summer here in TX. In fact, I'm pretty sure the new KTM's use 20w60 from the factory.

  • sawworcs

Posted September 21, 2008 - 07:16 PM

#5

ATF or Honda clutch oil seem to work the best for me. I used Specto Clutch saver for years & found after abour 3 hours of ride time the bike started shifting harder. I switched to ATF & the bike shifts very smooth even after 3 hours. BTW ATF is very cheap.

  • supermoto101

Posted September 22, 2008 - 05:27 AM

#6

All good advice above that will work.

Key things to realize:

1. The engine oil works harder than the trans oil and is more critical in terms of cost to repair.

2. Depending on how hard you are on the clutch the trans oil can get icky quick too (if you beat on the clutch) but is far less of a problem than icky engine oil. The thing will just shift crappy (as noted above) whereas you will be beating on a lot of expensive engine components if you neglect engine oil.

3. More important than what brand of oil is how often it's changed. Its just a small amount (approx 680cc) of oil which recirculates very rapidly and doesn't have time to cool so it contaminates quick and takes a beating. You will see it turn dark pretty rapidly after it's changed, so the key is to change often. 2-4 hrs. Honda GN4 is good and cheap so you won't mind dumping it often. If you can afford the synthetic great but don't leave it in much longer. 3-6hrs. We use GN4 for engine and trans, have since 2002 with no issues.

4. The filter just picks out particulate and you will see some if you look between the pleats. It would take many many many hours of use to contaminate it to the point of reduced flow so it does not need changing ever time you dump oil. They still are clean even after 3 oil changes but I wouldn't go much further than that. Filters are also pretty inexpensive.

Also since you're new, the main things with your four stroke is: oils as discussed, the usual maintenance stuff you know from your 2 banger and VALVE CLEARANCE! Have someone pop the head cover off and check the valves every 15 to 20 hours. If they need to be shimmed get it done and if they need it again soon you may have bigger issues. Air filter maintenance is CRITICAL on these things, gritty air just eats these motors so don't skimp in that area, this will tighten your valves quick. Throwing a set of valve springs in it every once it a while (annually) is the cheapest insurance going (assuming everything else is good). If you drop a valve and it goes boom your looking a grand minimum to rebuild, $40.00 for a set of springs and some labor to change will look real cheap.

If you look after it with the info on this website it will treat you well
:excuseme:





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