06 yz450f linkage trouble


7 replies to this topic
  • _JoNeS_

Posted September 20, 2008 - 02:27 PM

#1

Basically in the process of rebuilding my 06 yz450f, am currently replacing all linkage, swingarm and upper and lower shock bearings. Basically its been a nightmare so far, me and my mate have done the upper and lower shock bearings all ok, the old ones came out fine. But the linkage was a different story, weve done most of it as you can see in the pics, but in the process of getting the old bearings out we damgaed the outter rim slighly on the linkage peice, as you can see in the photo (green zip ties) and now the seals don't sit perfectly, would this affect the mobilty of the shock etc ???? thinking back I wish I had bought the linkage block and arm brand new again which would be a lot easier to install the new bearings, thats what I will be doing next time. By the way the bearings I am using are the all balls kits. Any tips on removing the old bearings (whats left of them) as Ive smashed most out in the other partof the linkage (not the block part) see pics ? I wouldn't have attempted this myself if any of my local shops would have done it but they said no as it may cost a fortune in labour if the old bearings where hard to remove :excuseme: Posted Image

  • _JoNeS_

Posted September 20, 2008 - 02:28 PM

#2

these are the bearings I am still struggling to remove

Posted Image

  • _JoNeS_

Posted September 20, 2008 - 02:30 PM

#3

another photo, (the one above looks like the linkage peice is damaged but it isn't thats jsut the flash)

Posted Image

  • YamaLink

Posted September 20, 2008 - 04:39 PM

#4

The linkage block, also called a relay arm or rocker, should be okay even though your seals don't sit flush. The block pivots on the 4 bushings (rest tight inside seals and "snap" into place tight with the pivot sleeve/collar so even a minor scuff or two where the seals sit won't affect it. Maybe try scraping the seal contact area clean (be careful not to cut your finger or hand with whatever you use).

As for the connecting rod or arm, those bearings are somewhat difficult to remove. Most press them out from the opposite end by placing a thin rectangular piece of metal/anything hard on the inside of the bearing you want out, and then coming in through the opposite bearing. Place a large socket or something similar for the bearing to fall into; use a long thin bolt to pass through the bearing to make contact with the thin rectangular piece. Hopefully this didn't confuse you. It is a bugger!

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  • Matt_W

Posted September 20, 2008 - 06:04 PM

#5

It's usually exercises like this that finally teach people how important it is to lube linkage, swingarm & steering head bearings on a regular basis. There is no way a 2006 model year machine should need all new bearings like this already. In fact, if properly lubed twice/year these bearings should last 10 years or better. A few hours of maintenance in the spring and fall will save you time, money and a lot of frustration in the garage.

  • _JoNeS_

Posted September 21, 2008 - 01:52 AM

#6

Thanks for the replies guys, as for an 06 not needing these replacing, it was mainly just the linkage ones which were shot and coupled with the fact the previous owner obvusouly wasn't big on maintaing things like this, and also the bike was raced most weekends in bad conditions (the UK I say no more) and mainly sand tracks.....But like I say I wanted to do all the bearings while I had the bike in bits as I thought it would be easier in the long run.

I am thinking of just buying the part brand new from my local yamaha dealer which I am having difficulty getting the remaing bearings out of, for the time I am waisting getting them out and just install my new bearings in that. Wish I had done that with the linkage block now but oh well :excuseme:

  • Matt_W

Posted September 21, 2008 - 05:18 AM

#7

I'm sure you've already tried this, but I'll throw it out there anyway. If you don't have a shop press, you can use a regular old bench vice with equal success. Find a deep well socket that fits just inside the linkage housing, but still makes contact with the bearing race inside. Now find a bigger socket to place on the opposite side of the linkage housing that has a diameter larger than the linkage houseing. Put the whole assembly in a bench vice. Start cranking on the vice and the smaller socket should begin pushing the bearing race out of the linkage an into the larger socket on the other end. This is a great home method for removing bearings. However, the bearing are a little more difficult to install this way. I typically just take the linkage pieces to my local shop and have them press them in. They only charge me about $15 to do this since I already have the parts off the bike and the old bearings out of the linkage. Good luck !!

  • matt4x4

Posted September 22, 2008 - 04:57 AM

#8

Once you have it rigged in your vice as already mentioned above, apply a somewhat liberal amount of pressure to get the bearing chase preloaded.(not too much, but definitely more than snugging it up).
Get your trusty propane torch and evenly heat the outside of the linkage, you'll know when it's enough since you will hear a BANG and the shop bench will shake, your bearing chase will have moved, possibly the whole rig drops out of the vise, set it all up square again and the chase will push out like butter the remainder of the way.

To get the new one in, place the chase in the freezer for a few hours, preheat the linkage (or whatever component you're installing a bearing into), use insulated work gloves so you don't burn yourself, set it all in the vise lined up square and push it in.
This is a 4 hand job, since you need to set the chase and linkage and socket up nice and square as you tighten up the vise to do the work.





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