chain, how loose/tight...
Posted 30 August 2008 - 10:45 PM
myself i run it pretty much to spec but i was thinking it seems a little tight. should i consider running it a little looser for off road where i'm really taxing the suspension? would that put more stress on the chain? just kinda thinking outloud here...
Posted 31 August 2008 - 04:47 AM
Just the way i've done it for about the past 30 years and it has served me well. Remember YMMV.
Cheers - Paul
Posted 31 August 2008 - 10:31 AM
Posted 31 August 2008 - 11:45 AM
Posted 31 August 2008 - 11:57 AM
I'm a big fan of keeping the chain's slack within the manufacturer's recommended limits, and measuring that slack in the recommended location using the recommended method. This practice has never failed me.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 04:39 PM
Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:00 PM
Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:23 PM
Posted 31 August 2008 - 06:30 PM
When I'm riding doun the street the chain is alway bobing up and down making clacking noises but when I tighten it up it one notch it is to tight. I was wondering if anyone out there has bought a chain tensioner for this problem? And did it cure it?
You can't tension out the thumper in the thumper... nor do you want to. Although a mechanical slide carb does smooth things out substantially down in thumpville.
If you have the stock lower roller it will make clacking noises (hard plastic). Replace it with one of the urethane rollers with bearings. Of course you've romoved and flung the upper roller right? Frames tend to make a lot of noise when you rip pieces of metal out of them.
Posted 31 August 2008 - 07:21 PM
Posted 31 August 2008 - 07:38 PM
Posted 01 September 2008 - 06:46 AM
I just bought a 92 DR650,should I get rid of the upper roller or is just the newer bikes?
Can't answer that one from experience. If the roller is mounted high enough to stay out of the chain's line of fire between the two sprockets under suspension compression then it will not be ripped off like the 96-08 models.
Posted 02 September 2008 - 07:25 AM
Posted 02 September 2008 - 07:46 AM
The thing is,they call for 1.2 to 1.8" of travel and my chain bumps into the black plastic slider on the bottom of the swing arm before I even have 1.2".
Keep in mind that it's total travel you're measuring - not just travel from the chain's static position to full up. Pull the chain down until it's taught, then push it up until it taught. Measure the TOTAL deflection from it's full down position to it's full up position, and this will give you your chain's true slack.
Posted 03 September 2008 - 05:13 AM
Posted 12 September 2008 - 10:03 AM
Posted 12 September 2008 - 10:10 AM
I just read an article in dirtrider magazine where a race mechanic adjusted the tension to 1/4-1/2" slack with the rear shock compressed to the tightest point of chain tension. i.e where the sprockets and swingarm link line up. It seems to me that it is too tight. Is that for race bikes only?
No, all you really need is a small amount of slack at the point where the countershaft sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle are all lined up. That is the point that the rear wheel is farthest from the CS sprocket.
Posted 12 September 2008 - 11:47 AM
It looks like with my setup that if you [COLOR="Red"]pull the chain down[/COLOR] then measure travel up to where it bumps into the slider its about 1.6":, right in spec.
That's the way I'm rolling, no problems here.
Posted 12 September 2008 - 12:32 PM
Posted 12 September 2008 - 12:44 PM
ok, i loosened mine because it seemed really tight but i think i'm going to tighten it again from what mxrob says, well after i check it again
Just remember, to do it MXrob's way..."No, all you really need is a small amount of slack at the point where the countershaft sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle are all lined up."
You will need to load the suspension so that the counter shaft, swing arm, and rear axle centerlines are all LINED UP. Not an easy task, but doable with some ratchet straps. That's whay suzuki gives you an "unloaded" setting. It's easier for most people to follow.
Translations on japanese manuals to English have gotten much better over the last 20 years, but sometimes you gotta read between the lines.
I pull the chain down, and measure the distance between it and the slider on the bottom of the swing arm.
1.5" is my optimum, 1.75" is max, anything greater, is time to adjust. When in doubt, loosen the chain, then use the snails to tighten to your desired spec, much easier that way.
Sorry, probably should have been more specific in my first answer. Sometimes I forget, not everyone has been doing this for 40 years....sorry.