Master link removal
Posted August 28, 2008 - 02:45 PM
Posted August 28, 2008 - 02:50 PM
Posted August 28, 2008 - 03:05 PM
and wear safety glasses because sometimes it flys off a bit
Posted September 24, 2008 - 03:55 PM
clip type connecting link has less strength than rivet type connecting link. Endless links or rivet type links are recommended at any time for o-ring chains.
I'm pissed, why didn't they supply me with one? On denniskirk it says what part number it is for the rivet, but they don't have it even listed. I am heated- now I have to order one and wait for it to come it. I will deal with the clip type, but the lack of strength scares me.
Any help is appreciated!
Posted September 25, 2008 - 03:24 PM
Posted September 25, 2008 - 10:32 PM
If I was still racing I might be a little more critical in my selection of master links.
Posted March 22, 2010 - 08:21 PM
I get what your saying ubu. The clip isn't the problem. It's removing the plate once the clip is gone. I've got a problem with this too. I really don't want to use my chain breaker tool to destroy the master link either, but I'm not seeing alternatives here.
so how did you do it? once I got the clip off my masterlink, it looks like the pins are actually bigger than the hole they came through?? this would require a chainbreaker, correct? I did not put this chain on and am wondering how it actually gets installed? Do I need to get a new masterlink?
Posted March 22, 2010 - 08:36 PM
I still haven't figured it out completely:busted: But last time I was able to pry the plate off with a screwdriver. It went flying and I lost an o-ring. I got a new o-ring and installed the link using channel-lock pilers. The first install, I used my chain breaker as a press by backing the pin out and using the outer clamp side of the breaker to squeeze it on.
Posted March 23, 2010 - 08:25 AM
When you work with the link or joining a chain etc always wrap it half/half around the rear sprocket. In other words, the join in the chain should always meet half way around the rear sprocket. This ensures there is little tension on the link you are working with. This makes all the work on removing and adding the link easy.
If the link plate is tight then use a flat screw driver that is just wider than the two lobes of the chain so that it pushes the link plate off both links equally. This does not damage the plate.
If there is no link in the chain as most factory bikes are then when you grind off the link also ensure you grind off the link that is halfway around the rear sprocket.
Posted March 23, 2010 - 09:42 AM
If you are going to run sealed chains, you really should invest in a proper chain press with the riveting and pin removal attachments. Screwing around with the wrong tools can cost you big bucks when the chain flies off and takes out your engine cases.
+1. I would be very cautious about re-using masterlinks for the exact same reason. But then I've never had a chain break in nearly thirty years of riding bikes (although there's a first time for everything).
When I have to remove a chain it's nature's way of telling me that it's time to drop the swingarm and regrease the pivot and linkage bearings. I never bother splitting a chain - if I'm simply changing gearing there's enough room on my bike to wriggle the front sprocket off once the chain is slackened. Assembling the masterlink on a new chain is easier with the chain on the bench than on the bike too, but then I'm getting too old for scrabbling around on the workshop floor anyway.