Help!!! I can't get this thing to start!!


15 replies to this topic
  • skintback426

Posted August 06, 2008 - 04:04 PM

#1

I have been trying to start my new-to-me WR426 for 2 days, and I can't do it. I am to the point of tears.

Previous owner said no throttle, choke, pull the decomp lever and slowly crank over 5-6 times, release decomp and crank to TDC, then pull decomp lever and go just past TDC, reset the kick starter release decomp and kick it

He said if it didn't start, repeat. This is pretty much what my manual says too.

I have done this, multiple times, never touched the throttle, and have replaced the spark plug with a new, properly-gapped one.
Bike will try to start with no choke, but won't.
If I put the choke on it hardly ever will try to start.

I know the bike will start, I watched the previous owner start it the other day and I rode it, then I started it and rode it.

Any ideas? Comments...:) :D

  • Tacojedbob

Posted August 06, 2008 - 04:50 PM

#2

KEEP AT IT! I had the same problem getting my 400 to start. The guy I bought it from started after only one attempt...cold. Brought it home and couldnt get it started for over a week. Just keep going through the tedious cycle and check the plug once and a while. Use your weight to your advantage, otherwise you will keel over from exhuastion. Make sure the high idle is on aswell. I know how you feel.

  • skintback426

Posted August 06, 2008 - 08:48 PM

#3

Well, I kept cranking until my leg/foot is throbbing and the bike tried to start about 3 times in a row. Then I pulled the hot start and it fired right up and ran dang good after it warmed up.

We shall see what the future holds, I will probably be looking into a carb rebuild soon. Does anyone know what the parts will cost for that?
I am working on a list of priorities with budget in mind.

  • chickenstrips

Posted August 06, 2008 - 09:15 PM

#4

Usually you don't need the choke. This is how I start my properly jetted 400 when COLD.


1) gas on
2) pull decomp
3) kick through 2-3 times slowly
4) to tdc, pull decomp, nudge past tdc
5) blip the throttle several times
6) kick


starts on the 1st or 2nd kick
you may also try RAISING the idle to start it, this generally helps when it feels like it is going to start or sputters but doesn't. it is the small black knurled knob on the bottom/side of the carb near the front, turn it clockwise to raise idle. lower it back down after you start it.

When warm/hot, ignore steps 3 and 5.

  • creeky

Posted August 07, 2008 - 03:24 AM

#5

Since it started up with the hot start pulled, you were probably flooding the engine with the choke. chickenstrips has the drill nailed. I use the same basic technique with my 400, bike starts 1st, 2nd kick cold, 1st kick hot.

  • matt4x4

Posted August 07, 2008 - 05:00 AM

#6

Ok, this works EVERY time on mine:

Usually - over 70 you don't need choke, but even with the choke, it will start - just idles higher.

Turn on fuel
press lightly on kicker until it stops (TDC), press and hold decomp lever
Press kickstarter just a little to bump piston over TDC.
Let go of decomp lever.
Bring kicker back to top.
Remove right hand from throttle and set on gastank.
kick once - hard all the way through, she should start right up

There could be several reasons your bike won't start:

1. Bad plug - replace with new one
2. stuck open valve - should not be able to find TDC easily if this is the case
3. Valve clearances too tight - check clearances - and do valve job before imminent explosion.
4. Dirty carb (mainly pilot circuit)


Now - since it starts using hot start - hot start adds air to the circuit, SO possibly, your air filter is restricting flow into the carb - how dirty is it?
possibly, your pilot circuit is set too rich.

Get the bike running and ride til warmed up (10 minutes), now properly adjust your pilot circuit - search for procedure.
Let bike cool down and test.

  • skintback426

Posted August 07, 2008 - 02:18 PM

#7

I had just cleaned and re-oiled the filter, I will search for the pilot circuit procedure. Previous owner said he had never had to touch the carb, so I figure I will be soon.

Thanks for the info guys I really appreciate it

  • freeriders98

Posted August 07, 2008 - 02:49 PM

#8

Its a technique. But once you get it you'll have no problems and love the bike. Good luck man. And once you get it you can laugh at your friends trying to start it. I had a friend who had one brand new so in 01. I'd never started a 4 stroke and he said I could ride it if i could start it. Never rode that bike.

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  • crooks420

Posted August 07, 2008 - 10:48 PM

#9

Yep.... it's all in your technique. You might try various things like the choke on/off, hot start on/off, 1 blip VS 3 blips of the throttle. And finally, you want to kind of snap the kick starter, dont just give a mule-kick. It's a technique; once you figure it out, it'll start in 1 or 2 kicks. IF YOUR JETTING IS SET RIGHT.

Jesse

  • Fullbore4

Posted August 08, 2008 - 07:27 AM

#10

Only thing I might add is until you get the hang of it, wear stiff soled shoes kicking it. I went through the same thing with my wr400. Once you get it you will be able to start with flip-flops on.......hang in there.

  • reloadz400

Posted August 08, 2008 - 07:52 AM

#11

Another thought, if you start smelling gas or think you flooded it pull the hot start, SLOWLY turn the throttle to WOT then hold the decomp lever and kick it about 6 times. close the throttle and kick it 2 more times, should have a good pop.

Then find TCD, go slightly past, release the decomp and kick it hard. I bet she fires.

Good luck!

  • 1rkcooper

Posted August 08, 2008 - 09:00 PM

#12

I understand all too well the troubles you are having, I too went through that. I could have burnt the bike the first day I owned it but I now think it is an awesome bike.

Go to the top of the YZ forum and click on the common threads sticky, now down the list to the bottom and you will find two videos from Yamaha and Dubach Racing, hot starting and cold starting procedures. These should help you out.

If my 400 hasn't been started today it needs 2-3 twists of the throttle and the choke and one good kick. When it is hot I rarely have to use the hot start.

Each bike has it's own little quirks but the videos are a great place to start. You will learn as you go what the quirks are for your bike.


Good luck

  • skintback426

Posted August 08, 2008 - 09:47 PM

#13

Yep, I had the equivilent of a stone bruise on my foot from dang near toe to heal. I could hardly walk without limping. But I went back at it, and started it today on the second kick. No choke, no throttle, just pulled the kickstarter out, decomp and 3 slow kicks, set just past tdc and boom!

I have never seen a bike start with no choke, ever. I am still suprised!
I know what y'all are saying about not mule-kicking the thing. It is sort of a push and follow through.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Y'all are good folks

  • chickenstrips

Posted August 09, 2008 - 12:30 AM

#14

Yep, I had the equivilent of a stone bruise on my foot from dang near toe to heal. I could hardly walk without limping. But I went back at it, and started it today on the second kick. No choke, no throttle, just pulled the kickstarter out, decomp and 3 slow kicks, set just past tdc and boom!

I have never seen a bike start with no choke, ever. I am still suprised!
I know what y'all are saying about not mule-kicking the thing. It is sort of a push and follow through.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Y'all are good folks



Choke is generally only required if the bike is jetted lean (like a lot of bikes for emissions purposes) or it is actually very very cold.

  • acarter92

Posted August 09, 2008 - 02:42 AM

#15

Another way to start this bike is:

-A couple slow kicks with decompression in (not really needed)
-Give it a good hard kick and release the decompression lever about half way down the kick and she will fire up just about every time.

Good luck,
Austin

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 09, 2008 - 05:46 AM

#16

I feel like a broken record , but I will say it again. Whenever the bike is shut off for any length of time, take your hand and move the kick lever till the engine is at TDC. This will help to cool the valves as they are closed at this point and it relieves the maximum amount of tension on the valve springs and helps prevent them from hanging open. This is especially important after washing the bike when the moisture may form a small rust surface on the exposed portion of the valve stem and begin the sticking valve process. It has become a habit with me now that every time we stop on the trail, I automaticaly grab the kicker and move the engine to TDC. My .02 -- WR Dave :)




 
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