Overflow drip and won't start...Help!!


12 replies to this topic
  • skintback426

Posted August 04, 2008 - 09:00 PM

#1

I have a new-to-me 2002 WR426, it has started and ran the 2 times I have tried. Today i was doing some tinkering/maintenance on it and now I have the aforementioned problem. The carb overflow drips after I have cranked on it a little while and it will not start. I tried for an hour+

The drip isn't steady, just occasionally,

The only things I did to the carb were taking the plug out of the bowl and draining it, and altering the throttle stop length.

Could draining the carb have caused my float to get stuck? That would cause the leak right? (according to my TT research)

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 05, 2008 - 04:43 AM

#2

My old 426 developed a leaking o-ring around the float valve seat after a few years. When the o-ring started to leak it bypassed the float needle and kept flooding the carb. Try a new o-ring and clean the carb while you have it out. WR Dave

  • skintback426

Posted August 05, 2008 - 09:33 PM

#3

I guess I will have to get me a manual real soon. I have been buying other assorted parts.

  • WR_Dave

Posted August 06, 2008 - 05:36 AM

#4

Manuals can be downloaded for free right here http://www.yamahaown...ook.com.au/?r=0

:) WR Dave

  • skintback426

Posted August 06, 2008 - 04:30 PM

#5

Well, I downloaded the manual, and tried tapping on the side of the carb with a piece of wood about 6" long and tried again. The drip stopped, but I still can't get the darn bike to start. I know it is getting spark and fuel. I think it is my technique, or at least I hope so.

  • wr 400 mikky

Posted August 29, 2008 - 06:12 AM

#6

well did it work??
is it ok now?

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  • matt4x4

Posted August 29, 2008 - 07:59 AM

#7

this is the right technique to start your WR:

Below 70F pull choke (black knob) out.
Make sure hot start (red knob) is in, it should only be out when you stalled the machine and can't get it fired normally right away.
push kicker lightly until you hit TDC - kicker should stop.
Press and hold decomp lever while pushing kicker just a little (to bring puston just past TDC).
Release decomp lever, bring kicker to top of stroke, and kick bike once all the way through with good force - a well tuned bike should fire every time (at least mine does).
Repeat if necessary.
Push in choke if it was out.

By the sounds of it your carb could use a teardown and cleaning - do NOT remove the TPS on it (black plastic thing with wires off it), but disassemble absolutely EVERYTHING else and clean it all well using brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
Make sure you set it all back up to where it was (turns on idle screw etc.).

Oh, and I forgot to add - when starting - don't even so much as look at your throttle - by that I mean - HANDS OFF!!!

Worst case scenario - if it sat a few weeks, give it one or two twists before starting, otherwiese hands off.

  • kheiney

Posted August 29, 2008 - 10:09 AM

#8

I had the same prob on my 426, leaking valve seat. Mine just went away after a couple rides though. But this is the trick to starting it even when it is leaking. Don't turn the Gas on! There is plently of gas in the bowl to start the bike and once it's running turn on the gas. This way you don't flood the engine.

  • skintback426

Posted September 01, 2008 - 05:02 PM

#9

I had apparently flooded it to the point of gas coming out of the overflow. I finally figured out the routine and it starts on 1-3 kicks after sitting a few days and 1-2 if it has been running. (Usually 1 kick)

I am going to tear down the carb now that I have a manual. Is there a rebuild kit that I need to get? Or do most people just tear it down and clean it?

The bike runs like a champ, except it tends to pop and backfire after a hard acceleration and then quick let off. Also, I figure since the bike is 6 years old now and never had the carb touched (supposedly) then it needs some attention. Then I plan on checking the valvetrain...

And that is gonna be a whole nother mother...:thumbsup:

  • WR_Dave

Posted September 01, 2008 - 07:47 PM

#10

You can get rid of alot of the backfiring and popping by flipping the ACV diaphram over ( check the stickies at the top of the forum for mods ). That should take most of it away unless your jetting is too lean. WR Dave.

  • Alternative

Posted September 01, 2008 - 11:04 PM

#11

You can get rid of alot of the backfiring and popping by flipping the ACV diaphram over ( check the stickies at the top of the forum for mods ). That should take most of it away unless your jetting is too lean. WR Dave.


I thought the purpose of the ACV was to reduce popping/backfiring? Wouldn't disabling it exaggerate the problem as opposed to curing it? Just a thought...

  • matt4x4

Posted September 02, 2008 - 05:12 AM

#12

You'll probably fix most fuel related issues by cleaning the carb properly.

  • WR_Dave

Posted September 02, 2008 - 07:58 PM

#13

I thought the purpose of the ACV was to reduce popping/backfiring? Wouldn't disabling it exaggerate the problem as opposed to curing it? Just a thought...



Sorry , didn't finish the thought :thumbsup: . Flipping the ACV diaphram lets you do a more accurate job of jetting as the air that is bypassed is now not an issue. No matter which method you use, all it does is give a consistent reading for jetting the bike properly. WR Dave.




 
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