Shifter seal leaking


4 replies to this topic
  • Twistedtrik

Posted July 29, 2008 - 11:42 AM

#1

Searched this topic for awhile and can't find anything useful. I noticed my shifter seal on my 00 426 was leaking. No big deal, replaced with a new seal and did a new oil change etc. Oil level is in the middle of the crosshatches so that's good. Now it doesn't leak ( that i know of ) when riding but after it sits for a day or so it starts leaking again and my oil level sits lower than normal. The shaft does not look bent and isn't scratched etc. If I start it for a minute and check the oil, the level is back to normal and it doesn't leak for a day or so of sitting. It seems that the oil systems have 1 way valves and maybe 1 is bad and allowing the oil to drain from tank to case while it sits and may be causing this. Any ideas Grey?

  • matt4x4

Posted July 29, 2008 - 11:48 AM

#2

are you sure it's the shifter seal?
Even with a little leak that can happen on those, it's abnormal to actually affect your oil level, it would not leak any more when riding or sitting.

Have you checked just above the shifter seal on your output shaft behind the front sprocket to see if it's wet there, if your output shaft seal is leaking it'll run down to the shifter seal and look like it's coming from there.
At the output shaft, you'd have to remove the sprocket, teh seal retaining plate, the collar, the seal and the oring on the shaft behind the seal - replace the collar, seal and oring.
Before you replace all that though, check for ANY play in the output shaft, any play at all (and I mean even the smallest amount) means your bearing will be leaving you shortly so you should get inside and replace the bearing (and any others you feel necessary while you're in there).

I just reread your post - not sure how you're checking your oil, but to check the oil properly, you HAVE to run the bike for a minute or two, shut it off and check the oil about 30 seconds to a minute later.
Any other oil check will give you false (most likely low) readings.

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  • Twistedtrik

Posted July 29, 2008 - 12:38 PM

#3

That was sorta 1 of my questions in a round about way. I check it after sitting and it looks a bit low, run it and it sits where it's supposed to be. I checked the output shaft and it's clean as can be. I went out and checked the shiter seal a few minutes ago and the leak is not near as bad as it was the other day. IDK, maybe I am just losing my mind LOL. I will keep an eye on it and see what it does. Thx.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 29, 2008 - 12:45 PM

#4

That was sorta 1 of my questions in a round about way. I check it after sitting and it looks a bit low, run it and it sits where it's supposed to be.

This is normal. Your bike has a dry sump oiling system. So,:

... to check the oil properly, you HAVE to run the bike for a minute or two, shut it off and check the oil about 30 seconds to a minute later.
Any other oil check will give you false (most likely low) readings.

Matt's right, and if you make the mistake of adding oil without first running it up, you'll overfill.

Read:

http://www.thumperta...903#post5221903

  • matt4x4

Posted July 30, 2008 - 07:32 AM

#5

One more thing - when you replaced the shifter seal, did you inspect the shifter shaft for wear right where it passes through the seal? (actually - you said you checked it and it's ok) Dirt collecting there, esp. after it starts to leak will wear grooves into it, if that is the case, it can usually be fixed once with emery cloth, you can probably sand it in place, but might have to remove the shaft to clean it up right, then replace the seal - a rough shaft will tear a seal fast.
Also - on the far end of the shaft there is a collar that can wear - if there is play up/down/sideways, it means wear at the collar either on the collar (more common) or on the shaft - this movement will allow your shaft to move more and press onto portions of the seal instead of being centered, opening the opposing end of the seal for fluid to get by - within a short time, the seal will fail due to the extra stress on it.
To remove the shaft, take off the shift lever and entire clutch side case cover (you will need to drain the rad though..) and push the shaft out - easy as that.

If it's a minimal one drop deal, I wouldn't worry about it too much - keep an eye on it





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