Cam Chain Guide Replacement - Help



7 replies to this topic
  • r6roadracer

Posted May 29, 2002 - 01:54 PM

#1

Is it possible to remove and replace the cam chain guides without cylinder removal? I dont have a manual, but from the looks of the parts breakdown on a fiche it appears that the cylinder would need to be removed.

Anyone know for sure?

  • Shawbridge Husky

Posted May 29, 2002 - 02:17 PM

#2

Please do not remove your cylinder! The chain goes in great through the mag side. You will need a flywheel extractor / puller and a Torx set. It helps if you unbolt the right chain buffer also and push it up out of the way.

Please work patiently.

Take care.

  • Hick

Posted May 30, 2002 - 06:35 AM

#3

Originally posted by r6roadracer:
Anyone know for sure?


I'm not sure that the bracket that secures the rear guide will fit through the cam chain hole in the barrel. I know you need to take the head and the flywheel/stator off (the latter is secured w/ metric torx fasteners BTW) …

I can’t remember exactly how it comes apart, but I don’t see why you couldn’t change all those parts out with the barrel on the bike (and the piston staying in the barrel).

Getting the front guide out can be tricky, it sits in a groove in the cases, and if the motor is still in the chassis things are a little tight, but if you lift the head up about an inch, then stick your fingers in the space between head and barrel and lift the guide out of its groove, then turn it clockwise 90 degrees it will come out through the cam chain passage in the head. Then the head will come off easily, then I guess you will find out if the rear guide will come through the barrel :)

Sorry I couldn’t answer your question definitively, but I hope this helps.

[ May 30, 2002: Message edited by: Hick ]

  • Shawbridge Husky

Posted May 30, 2002 - 09:11 PM

#4

I did this last year. Yes it's a tight fir put very doable. No need to lift head.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Mark_Cantrell

Posted May 30, 2002 - 09:48 PM

#5

I've pulled my front chain guide without removing cylinder. DOn't know about back one.

mwc

  • Hick

Posted May 30, 2002 - 12:12 PM

#6

Originally posted by Hugh LePage:
I did this last year. Yes it's a tight fir put very doable. No need to lift head.


How'd you get the front guide out without lifting the head??

Inquiring minds want to know :)

If not, then I want to know. Looked impossible to me at the time...

  • Shawbridge Husky

Posted May 31, 2002 - 12:08 PM

#7

Sorry for the spelling Hick. Always in a hurry at work, no computer at home ( like it that way! )
I basically removed valve cover, tensioner , cams, mag with pick-up, that back plate of sorts with the Torx screws and unbolted the buffer/ guide that runs against the tensioner. I don't remember lifting the other buffer out ( the one that more or less snaps in place ) I just kind of liften the bolt down one out of the way. It has a cupped shaped metal end that was troublesome.

Was then able to spin the chain on carefully using the kick start by hand.

This was last year, my aging mind may have forgotten details but the head stayed put.

Hope this helps.

And oh yeah, I posted and both you and Boit said it was doable before I tried.

[ May 31, 2002: Message edited by: Hugh LePage ]

  • Hick

Posted May 31, 2002 - 12:20 PM

#8

Originally posted by Hugh LePage:
I don't remember lifting the other buffer out ( the one that more or less snaps in place ) I just kind of liften the bolt down one out of the way. It has a cupped shaped metal end that was troublesome.


The original question was about getting the buffers out, not the chain. The front buffer that “snaps in place” is the one that I think won’t come out with the head on, and the “cupped shaped metal end” is what I’m worried about as far as clearing the cam chain hole in the barrel.

Heck R6, you may be able to get everything out with the head still on. Remove the flywheel and stator and see if you can’t somehow coax the front guide up and out of the notch it sits in. Taking the chain off first may help this, and you probably can’t get the steel bracket holding the rear guide out with the chain still on the crank.

Anyway, I hope you find some of our posts here helpful.




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.