A Little More Light
Posted December 11, 2002 - 07:00 AM
I have a single position headlight and rear light/brakelight and thats the way I want to keep it - simple.
Posted December 11, 2002 - 12:46 PM
If you do use a battery, you should use a voltage regulator to prevent overcharging. The lead acid batteries will merely boil, but the newer solid state batters will rupture/explode if overcharged.
Another thought might be to fabricate a nighttime throttle stop(fast idle). It could be something quick like a hot start button you could quickly and mechanically enable or disable only when you needed it. A little quicker than adjusting the idle screw.
Posted December 11, 2002 - 02:59 PM
Posted December 12, 2002 - 05:32 AM
I have a reworked 130 watt stator w/ a acerbis blitz light on my yz400. I have 2 50watt bulbs in it and it seams to work fine. Not too much dimming at idle. Im even runing 35watt hand warmers and a tailight. Although I think I need to reduce the wattage of the bulbs while I am using the warmers in the winter. They arn't gettin to warm. maybe with the reduced wattage bulbs it will be better.
if you put in a smaller wattage bulb it will not dim at idle. But it wont put out as much light either. Its always a tradeoff. Dual sport bikes are better equiped to handle this problem. But trail bikes seem to be more suseptible to it. If your looking for a cheep solution I dont know if there is one.
Posted December 12, 2002 - 05:46 AM
Posted December 12, 2002 - 06:09 AM
Even with both lights on, they did not dim at idle.
I REALLY wish I could afford a set of those for my ride....
Posted December 12, 2002 - 05:49 PM
Sounds like the easiest thing to try may be replacing your stator w/ a new (higher output) one and retaining the stock lighting for now. Then if you choose to go briter you'll have the juice to run it.
Another more technical thought, would be to setup a high/low beam unit where the low beam would be slightly less wattage, but if your traveling at low rpms (slow speeds) you wouldn't miss it. As you increase your rpms (traveling speeds) you flip on the high beam. All you would need to do is replace the stock switch with one that is an On-OFF-On, and then replace the head lamp w/ an automotive style (Halogen) bulb. While this is still just theroy I believe it'll work, just check the wattages of the bulbs your trying. I believe stock WR's come with a halogen 55/60 watt bulb wired onto the 60 watt high beam. So you may not even have to change plug ends. If I get a chance to try it I'll post my steps.
Posted December 12, 2002 - 07:39 PM
Posted December 13, 2002 - 05:20 AM
If I were to replace the stator (lighting coil??) this would provide more juice right, so it would dim less...right ? So how do i upgrade my stator ? Is there anything I should watch out for ?
Rich, on the battery thing, what would I need to install and how would I go about installing it & wiring it up ?
Posted December 13, 2002 - 07:44 AM
THe hid buld is actually more durable than the standard filiment type bulb. The hid has no filiment. Instead the electricity arcs acrost 2 polls creating an arc of light. That arc is seald in a glass bulb so nothing (water) can get at it.
Posted December 14, 2002 - 08:15 AM
To wire in a battery, you need to rectify the current to DC first. I've got a Baja Designs regulator/rectifier, but you can just put a rectifier inline after the regulator and achieve the same results. Then you take the rectified positive wire and plug that into the positive battery terminal and connect the battery ground to bike's ground. (Floating the lighting coil's ground is preferable because you don't get any AC "interference" from the ignition coil's ground. If you do float the ground, remember to attach a ground wire to the voltage regulator or it won't get any juice.) Then take all the lighting power right off the battery.
I and several friends use a 1.2 ah sealed lead-acid battery. It behaves just like a regular automotive battery and has plenty of capacity. They are small enough to fit nicely in the airbox. Or you could put it behind the headlight. I had a Ni-Cad battery from Baja Designs but it died on me after just a few months. This battery has lasted me a couple of years, so far. I also power my GPS off of it.
Regarding LEDs, I replaced the stock 1157 bulb (tail/brake light) with an LED 1157. It's very bright, especially at braking, and I think it's a lot less drain on the electrical system. I also use LEDs for the high beam indicator and license plate light. So the only incandescent bulb I'm using is the headlight.
Posted December 15, 2002 - 11:34 PM
I looked on the Baja Designs site and they only have regulator/rectifiers - is that OK ? They have a choise of two, one wired & fused the other not. I presume the wired & fused.
As for the battery I presume its a 12V 1200 millamp. Can I use a regular airplane remote control type battery or do I need to get something special.
As you may be able to tell i'm not much of an electrics geek so I may have a couple more questions.... like this one... what is a 'floating ground'?
thanks for the help
Posted December 16, 2002 - 08:54 AM
On another matter, has anyone mounted an LED lights in their
conventional signal lights? I am not sure of the bulb size but one would need to match the bayonette. I am not sure if this size is yet commercially available? Another problem would be the relay. One would need a relay that could be triggered by the extremely low current required by these LEDS. Rich? Techman? Anyone?
Posted December 16, 2002 - 04:27 PM
If you just install a rectifier, you can float the ground after the stator by connecting a wire to the frame and using that as the ground coming into the rectifier. Then the ground wire exiting the rectifier will be the ground for all of the lighting circuits. This effectively isolates the DC lighting ground from the AC ignition ground and elimintes any weird AC interference.
Posted December 16, 2002 - 04:40 PM
I have been experimenting with using LED lights for turn signals recently and have come to a kind of roadblock. As you correctly surmised, the extremely low current draw of an LED (or cluster of LEDs) is not enough to trigger a standard turn signal flasher. I've searched the internet to see if I could make an electronic turn signal flasher using a 555 timer, but my knowledge of electronics is extremely limited and I wouldn't know a timing circuit if I saw one. A local electronics store had a kit that used a 555 IC and some resistors and capacitors on a small circuit board that I thought would work. But just as I was about to pay for it, I saw that the minimum pause duration was 2 seconds. (Pause duration was adjustable between 2 and 60 seconds and "on" duration was similarly adjustable.) I realized that 2 seconds was just too slow of a flash rate and was back to square one. I figure this sort of timer has to be simple for somone who knows much about electronics.
So, to all you electronics wizards out there: could you help a brother out and tell us how it's done?
Posted December 16, 2002 - 10:27 PM
I'm a little confused from the conceptual point of view. Maybe cos I dont understand electrical systems. Just tell me to shut up if I'm being a idjit.
So here is my theory...If I need to convert the output from the electrical system to DC then without the rectifier the elcetrical system is AC, right ? So if I convert that to DC so the battery charges and isn't screwed up by the AC, how will the lights now run with a DC current when before they were running with a AC current ? Dont the lights ONLY work with DC anyway ? Hmmm... I think I'm missing something.....
I was wondering perhaps if you were running a YZ that was converted to run with a light system. Electrics would be AC from the stock set-up (no lights) and to install lights you would have to convert to a DC setup. But you say you have a WR. Did it come without lights ?
I know I'm wrong somewheres but ....... help?!!!...?
Posted December 17, 2002 - 07:21 AM
If I need to convert the output from the electrical system to DC then without the rectifier the elcetrical system is AC, right ?
So if I convert that to DC so the battery charges and isn't screwed up by the AC, how will the lights now run with a DC current when before they were running with a AC current ? Dont the lights ONLY work with DC anyway ?
Wrong...the lights work with either AC or DC; they don't care. The only reason to rectify the current in your application is to be able to charge the battery. If you wanted an electric horn or turn signals, those devices only work with DC. Floating the ground prevents AC-DC interference and allows you to wire the rectifier properly.
I was wondering perhaps if you were running a YZ that was converted to run with a light system. Electrics would be AC from the stock set-up (no lights) and to install lights you would have to convert to a DC setup. But you say you have a WR. Did it come without lights?
I've got a '99 WR400. Stock, it comes with lights powered by an AC lighting coil. The lighting power on my bike has been rectified with a Baja Designs regulator/rectifier, which replaces the stock voltage regulator and also rectifies the current. It allows the battery to charge and the horn and turn signals to operate.
Also, I was working on my bike this weekend and turned the lights on while the motor was off. The lights were very bright. Just thought I'd rub it in. BTW, a YZ doesn't have a lighting coil at all.
Posted December 18, 2002 - 07:06 AM