Racing an 07 yz450f need advice


13 replies to this topic
  • drzjay400e

Posted July 06, 2008 - 05:11 PM

#1

I race in the 30 beginner class and it is clear that I will be moving to intermediate next season. The problems I need to weed out is stalling. If it were'nt for stalling I would be going home with more trophies. The stock rear sprocket is a 49 and I went up to a 50t which seems to help a little. I turned my idle up and this also helps. If I could stop locking the rear wheel up, it would help alot. But until I get use to using the front brake more I need a quick fix. Someone made the suggestion to go up another tooth in the rear. Plus this may help in my holeshot.

Can anyone give me suggestions on equiping my bike in solving this issue.

Or, can you share your bikes setup.

:thumbsup:

  • KJ790

Posted July 06, 2008 - 05:14 PM

#2

Pull in the clutch whenever you are braking hard. If you want to spend the money, you can get a recluse auto-clutch.

  • drzjay400e

Posted July 06, 2008 - 05:19 PM

#3

Recluse is def the way to go. But not for this bike. I will be picking out an 09 yz450 and I will get one for that bike.

  • Kent Rathgeber

Posted July 06, 2008 - 05:20 PM

#4

Use your front brake more than the rear, and whenever you need to stomp on your rear brake, pull in the clutch lever. Also, you may be trying to carry too high of a gear through the turn. Try going down one gear (from 3rd to 2nd, for example) and see what happens. That alone helped me a lot.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 06, 2008 - 06:00 PM

#5

There is no quick fix. You have to teach yourself 1) not to do this in the first place, and 2) how to react to it and get the bike restarted on the fly.

If you are going to use the brake to set up corners, like my son is so fond of doing, you have to either pull the clutch, or learn to near-lock, rather than fully lock, the rear.

  • Nitrox

Posted July 06, 2008 - 06:08 PM

#6

A flywheel may help. Not a lot more than the stock weight but it may be just enough to keep your bike from stalling/brake locking up. I put a gyrt on my 04 450 and it helped just enough for me. My 07 doesn't seem to have that problem.

cb

  • BeauGt

Posted July 07, 2008 - 11:33 AM

#7

Jusr learn to pull the clutch in when you break hard. I still have this problem, just need to pratice it.

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  • drzjay400e

Posted July 07, 2008 - 05:10 PM

#8

all great suggestions. I really need alot more seat time to practice.

Has anyone played witht the rear sproket to help from stalling. and has it helped in the holeshot?
:thumbsup:

  • Daltoneious

Posted July 07, 2008 - 05:32 PM

#9

it just sounds like u need more seat time, i always have at least my index finger on the clutch, sometimes two. when i get off the gas coming into the corner i almost always grab the clutch, not doing so creates engine braking and doesnt allow your suspension to work properly, as does locking your rear brake. you should hardly ever lock your rear brake. changing sprockets hasnt helped me in anyway other then what gear i can carry through a corner and shift points, so on the start it may help you. another problem could be your idle is too low and then if you snap the throttle quickly in a corner it could cough an stall, thats a jetting/idle speed issue. all those are things u should try out and see if it helps.

  • swatdoc

Posted July 09, 2008 - 01:11 AM

#10

One trick the Graves supermoto team does to help decrease the sensitivity of the rear brake (might be other reasons too) is to take a spring and mount it between the rear brake lever clevis and the master cylinder. It looks like either a clutch spring or a valve spring (cut down, obviously). Gives a little extra resistance - I'm thinking of trying this on my bike. Just take a good look at the right side of one of the graves bikes and you'll see the spring

Posted Image

  • Motoidiot7

Posted July 10, 2008 - 03:42 PM

#11

Ok I see the spring but the thing that catches my eye the most is whatever that is coming off of the head pipe, what in the world good would that do??? The spring thing is a great idea. And about your problem just use the clutch. This helps me while mountain biking, ride around the track using only your front brake, and learn how to control it and use it right, also downshifting on a four stroke creates one hell of an engine break on its own. So what you need to work on in my opinion, is your front breaking, clutch grabbing, down shifting, and not so much rear brake. Remember that the front brake is 80 or so % of your stopping power, so use it. But thats my opinion, and it works great for me. If you change your rear sprocket to much your gaining more low end, not that these bikes need it, and losing alot of high speed, which they have plenty of, so it may get you the hole shot, but you could get left in the straights, so you dont want to add to many teeth to the rear. Another thing that works good on the starts is the fork compressor that mounts to your right fork, and on your fork guard to lower the front of the bike for the start then release it on the first bump, mine works wonders to keep the front down so you may want to look into that. Thats all....

  • grayracer513

Posted July 10, 2008 - 03:47 PM

#12

... the thing that catches my eye the most is whatever that is coming off of the head pipe, what in the world good would that do???

That is another approach to the pressure damping concept of the Power Bomb/Mega Bomb header. Widens the power curve.

  • swatdoc

Posted July 10, 2008 - 04:42 PM

#13

Yea, and supposedly really helps tone down the noise, too, according to the Graves boys

  • BBrown626

Posted July 10, 2008 - 06:05 PM

#14

it just sounds like u need more seat time, i always have at least my index finger on the clutch, sometimes two. when i get off the gas coming into the corner i almost always grab the clutch, not doing so creates engine braking and doesnt allow your suspension to work properly, as does locking your rear brake. you should hardly ever lock your rear brake. ...


+ 1
:thumbsup:





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