G'day everyone,
I could never find an oil change thread with enough detail in it for a beginner. So I thought I'd make my own.
Let us begin:
1. To start with assemble the tools for the job.
You want the following
- Oil pan - large
- 10mm Socket or spanner
- 12mm Socket
- 14mm Socket or spanner
- Extension for sockets
- Ratchet handle
- 2 Liters of oil
- New oil filter
- Paper towel and/or rags
- Disposable gloves - personal preference
- De-greaser
2. The manual indicates that the oil filler should be unscrewed. I unscrewed it, but left it in place to avoid anything falling in.
3. Now locate the Frame oil plug as depicted below.
Place your oil pan underneath this bolt. Using a 12mm wrench or socket undo the plug and be prepared for the torrent of oil that will flow as so:
4. Once the flow stops, position the oil pan so it will catch oil from the Frame plug and also the Crankcase plug shown here
Using a 14mm socket, undo the plug and once again be prepared for the oil to piss out. (NOTE, how much comes out of the motor is depended on when it was ran last, remember the DRZ is a dry sump system, oil is stored in the frame tank, but will drain down to the motor if store for a few days.)
An extra step here is to balance the bike in the upright position
to aid in the complete emptying of the Crankcase.
5. Now that the bulk of the oil has drained locate the Oil filter cover on the right side of the motor. Undo the three closed top nuts, oil will again drain out. (NOTE if you lean the bike over to the right before undoing those three nuts, most of the oil drained from the filter will go into the pan, and not all over your motor)
6. Take the Oil filter cover off taking care to remove the large "O" ring from the mating surface
if it's not there check the underside of the Oil filter cover.
7. Remove the old filter, see the small "O" ring at the back?
We need that, you can leave it there or take it out and replace it when reassembling. (NOTE: On a used bike, you may find the PO lost the o-ring when he tossed the old filter, and never even knew it. Nothing you can do, so replace it and go ride)
9. Take the new oil filter out of it's packet it should look like this
make sure there are no tears or other imperfections
If you notice "cracks" inside the oil filter cavity when you clean it out.... RELAX.... they are just casting marks... You will find them in the oil filter sump and just about any inside, non finished part of the case.
10. With the area clean of old oil refit the small "O" ring
then place the new oil filter in.
11. Now grab the large "O" ring and refit it to the underside of the Oil filter cover.
12. Refit the Oil filter cover, observing the arrow stamped on its surface to point up-wards, thusly
13. Refit the Frame oil plug. It is tightened to just 13 FTLB.. so go easy on it.
Reusing a OEM crush washer, or installing it upside down can have disastrous results
14. Refit the Crankcase oil plug using a new, or undamaged sealing washer. The OEM Crush washer is a one time use item. Install is with the solid rolled surface toward the case.
When installed it deforms to seal the plug,, the problem is, it forms a bit of a wedge, and if reused, a few times, or over tightened even once,, it can and has wedged itself against the case and broken a hunk of the case out. Reuse this washer at your own risk.:prof: Tighten to just 13 FTLB,, just snug.... enough to seal the washer to case and plug
This is not something most will be able to repair..so it becomes very costly.
As an alternative to the OEM tubular crush washer, you can use flat aluminum sealing washers.
Available from Honda 10mm PN 90545-300-000 and 12mm PN 94109-12000 sealing washers.
NOTE.. The Honda 10mm washer is showing up as a $2.00 part right now.. I would not recommend that. the OEM Suzuki one works just fine for the frame plug.
15. Grab your funnel, any crap stuck on the inside will end up in your engine so make sure you clean it.
16. Place the funnel in the oil filler hole, and pour in 1.8L of your choice of oil.
To measure out 1.8 Liters I find it easiest to keep an eye on these side indicators and wait until it looks like this, indicating there is 200ml left in the bottle. (Note, dropping in a full two bottles , be it liter or quart is ok,, the few extra CC's will not hurt anything. The oil tank easily handles the little bit of extra oil)
17. Tighten up the oil filler cap
Spray the motor with some de-greaser, wash, and then start er up. Check for leaks...if none your done :thumbsup: Go ride :ride:
Publishers Note: This walk though is a repost of a thread started by Stupid-Rookie
I edited it for content and clarity, plus added a few notes here and there. But by and large it was his write up, just posted here in the FAQ to make it easier for all to find.
Thanks Stupid-Rookie :thumbsup:
EDIT:.... NOTE, cleaning the oil tank screen is a once a season deal.. Not needed every oil change.
Here is a good thread that covers the procedure.
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