Hard to start now that its cold, and plug color
Posted December 08, 2002 - 05:05 PM
Posted December 08, 2002 - 05:27 PM
On the WR426 it was very black and had corrosion on the top of the ring on the plug. It looks like salt corrosion. Anybody else see this?
So, Yes I did change it to a CR8E fired on the first kick and no problem, but I too would be interested to know what others have seen on the color of their plugs.
Posted December 08, 2002 - 05:44 PM
I've gotten the answer to the salty looking corrosion problem you mention. It comes from water that gets down in the plug hole when you wash the bike. If you want to see another place where similar corriosion occurs, take off your kickstarter and look inside the part that rotates. If you do, watch for the spring-loaded ball bearing in there. I took mine apart and it was loaded with the corrosive looking crud.
So, does anyone get nice tan plugs?
Posted December 09, 2002 - 08:33 AM
Posted December 09, 2002 - 08:47 AM
My stock jetted 2000wr's 1 yr old plug was clean with a light redish color on the insulator. Otherwise clean.
I suspect a black sooty fould plug means yr bike is running rich.
check yr jetting an consider leaning it out.
Is the insulator is black, drop the main and or needle.
If the outer ring is black, turn screw in or drop the pilot jet.
Also, make sure the air filter is clean.
A black plug in No good.
Posted December 09, 2002 - 10:22 AM
I just went ridding yesterday in about 25-30 deg weather. My 400 starts hard in the winter also. About the only thing that I can suggest is to lay the bike over on its side b4 you try to start it. Keep it there until gas starts to drool out of the carb vent tubes. I tried to start it without doing that yesterday and it diddn't even pop. Once I layed it over it started to sputter. Usually it starts and stalls. It does this about 10x b4 it stays running. Its a pain but it will usually start. Also let it idle for a long time and get really warm. If I take off too soon it will start popping and coughing.
If it is still poping when your ridding. Try putting duct tape over the radiator shields to keep the air out. Sometimes its so cold out that the air cools the bike faster than the engine can heat it. The tape helps.
Posted December 09, 2002 - 06:13 PM
Posted December 11, 2002 - 07:08 AM
I normally only gave a very small twist of the throttle to prime the carb, but in the cold weather I give it a full twist and a tad more. It starts on kick 5-6 kicks then dies then starts again 3-4 kicks later. It doesnt tick over too well with the choke on unless I blip the throttle slightly. It then runs fast and after about 5 seconds I turn the choke off, and it settles donw to idle speed. I then let it warm up real good before riding.
Posted December 11, 2002 - 09:15 AM
I'm on a DTM clip 3 and 160 MJ 160 MAJ
Posted December 11, 2002 - 11:54 AM
Posted December 11, 2002 - 07:09 PM
When it gets colder your bike will run leaner. But a cold start requires a rich mixture. Thus it makes sense that the bike is harder to start when cold UNLESS you have richened the pilot circuit. I would guess that you are also getting some popping on decel too - also indicative of a lean pilot circuit.
Have you tried to simply adjust the fuel screw OUT? I would try about a 1/2 turn first. If you end up more than 2.75 turns out put in a larger pilot (not smaller!).
Posted December 12, 2002 - 02:08 PM
Posted December 13, 2002 - 09:20 AM
Posted December 13, 2002 - 11:19 AM
EKQ pos#1? Just a guess; maybe you are lean on needle and trying to compensate with pilot..?
Posted December 13, 2002 - 12:05 PM
Posted December 13, 2002 - 12:44 PM
i give up.
it's nobody's job on this web site to say what the laws of physics are. not one of you knows all the facts.
so i offer this challenge.
if you know all the facts and you can put them all up here then do it. but if you think you know just carry on as you are.
every autumn you guys flood and every year i don't have a problem, the difference is that i deal with things as i find them.
your way over jetted but did i teach you anything new there stefe?
Posted December 13, 2002 - 03:13 PM
I stress the importance of operating engine at a warm enough temperature by covering part of rads at cooler temps before determining what is wrong with jetting. Simply feeling the engine by touch should indicate this as there is no thermostat to control cooling.
Laws of physics never cease to exist here and I have never fouled my plug, by the way.(2800 miles on a CR8EK) ...and don't worry about my big MFJ, I am switching to an EKN with smaller MFJ...
Posted December 14, 2002 - 08:40 AM
With your signature jetting, what elevation and temperature were you at? As it got colder what changes if any did you make? Thank you.
Posted December 15, 2002 - 12:07 PM
Posted December 15, 2002 - 03:30 PM
What Taffy is telling you is that as the temp. drops you need to go leaner on jetting. Yamakaze will also say go leaner. You will get conflicting opinions on this subject. If the plug is black & sooty its to rich, this is a common fall problem. I think this is what Taffy said. The English wit is at times hard to understand. If you have a beer or two beforehand it will make more sense.