Clutch change on a 06 YZ450f


16 replies to this topic
  • sacfelix

Posted June 28, 2008 - 09:44 PM

#1

I just changed the clutch on my 06 YZ450 and thought I would post the pics from it.

1. I drained the oil and removed the rear brake pedal.
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2. I loosened the clutch cable adjuster and removed the clutch cover.
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3. I removed the 6 bolts holding the pressure plate on.
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4. When removing the pressure plate be sure not to loose the little steel ball
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5. Remove all the clutch friction plates and inspect the clutch boss for marks in the fingers. If there happens to be scars in the fingers remove the boss and replace it or you can simply prolong the replacement by taking a file to the fingers(not recommended) and knocking down the scars as a temporary fix.
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6. Here is the specs for the clutch friction and steel plates
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7. I know a safe measure is to soak the new friction plates in oil before you install them. Some clutch plates dont need to be soaked in oil before install but these specific ones do.
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8. Install the new clutch starting with a friction plate and you should end with a friction plate.
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9. reinstall the pressure plate and new springs but if you are going to use the same springs then here is the spec sheet
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10. The pressure plate and clutch cover should be torqued to 7.2ft-lbs
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11. install the clutch cover, install the rear brake, adjust your clutch cable as needed and add oil. Once the bike is warm the manual tells you to slip the clutch a few times to seat the clutch plates.
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The clutch job took 45mins. to complete from start to finish. I hope this helps and keeps you roostin!

  • FreshDonutsCAN

Posted June 28, 2008 - 09:53 PM

#2

that was nice Thanks!

  • gabrams

Posted November 08, 2008 - 05:47 PM

#3

Thank you so much for doing this. i hadn't done a clutch in 10 years and it was nice to have a few visual aides while doing my 06 yz450. Mine took about 1.5 hours start to finish but I'm a little slow.

  • 2012 450 xc-w

Posted November 09, 2008 - 12:10 PM

#4

You can also lean the bike over and do this without draining the oil.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 09, 2008 - 01:05 PM

#5

You can also lean the bike over and do this without draining the oil.

You don't have to. The YZ is a dry sump. If you run the engine for about 1 minute prior to doing the work, you will loose little or no oil during this operation with the bike upright.

  • Family Man

Posted November 09, 2008 - 05:53 PM

#6

You also dont need to take the rear brake pedal off. You can pry it down and that will alow you to remove install the clutch cover. Laying your bike on its opposite side lets you see things easier. Nice pictures, good job.

  • Michael Cahill

Posted November 10, 2008 - 11:55 AM

#7

You don't have to. The YZ is a dry sump. If you run the engine for about 1 minute prior to doing the work, you will loose little or no oil during this operation with the bike upright.


well where does all of the oil go then?
or should i say, how does it stay out of the bottom of the engine? :worthy:

  • grayracer513

Posted November 10, 2008 - 02:02 PM

#8

well where does all of the oil go then?
or should i say, how does it stay out of the bottom of the engine? :worthy:

It goes in the oil tank, which is in the frame on the older bikes, and in a volume in the front of the engine on the '06 and later.

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  • sacfelix

Posted November 10, 2008 - 02:23 PM

#9

You dont have to remove the brake but its easier with it out of the way.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 10, 2008 - 02:26 PM

#10

You dont have to remove the brake but its easier with it out of the way.

No harder than it is to do, I'd have to agree. For those who insist on leaving it on, push the caliper piston back first. You can lower the pedal much farther.

  • polarisrmk

Posted April 07, 2009 - 02:24 PM

#11

Hi there I think this is what my bike needs done...what were the syptoms that your bike was showing when it was time to replace the clutch plates? And how much did you pay for the set of them if you can remember? How big of a job was it? judging from the pictures it doesn't look to terrable. Thanks in advance!!

  • gabrams

Posted April 08, 2009 - 07:40 AM

#12

Basically your bike won't move at top speed or at all when you release the clutch. it will rev and not go anywhere or feel like the power is not getting to your back tire (aka clutch slipping). You may also smell it burning. The job is very easy to do and the worst part for me was draining the oil. Make sure not to lose the little ball and everything will be fine. i also changed my cable at the same time just to start fresh. The clutch (EBC) and clutch cover gasket (Tusk) was about $125 from Rocky Mountain ATV and the cable was about $20 if i remember correctly. i also do recommend removing the rear brake lever, it only takes a second and is much easier with it out of the way. I also drained the oil and changed it contrary to earlier posts in this thread. Remember to soak the clutch plates overnight in oil to get them nice and saturated prior to installation. Hope this helped.

  • sacfelix

Posted April 09, 2009 - 07:59 AM

#13

The clutch job took me 45mins and I bought the fibers off ebay for $45. The gasket I bought from the local Yamaha shop for $7. It is a very simple task.

  • gdbarr1976

Posted April 09, 2009 - 08:27 AM

#14

Don't take the brake pedal off. Pry the brake pads open, push the pedal down then stick a screw driver into the swing arm axle. Or would it be a big bolt? (it is hollow). The brake pedal will now be down far enough to easily take off the clutch cover.

  • Kasjok

Posted April 09, 2009 - 08:33 AM

#15

I don´t think removing one bolt is too hard and then you have a perfect opportunity to clean an lube the pivot point of the brake pedal.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 09, 2009 - 08:42 AM

#16

I don´t think removing one bolt is too hard and then you have a perfect opportunity to clean an lube the pivot point of the brake pedal.


I don't either, and doing it the other way stretches the return spring well beyond the normal operating range by the time you get the arch of the pedal completely out of your way. Removing it is way too easy. (Just remember to pull the safety pin out of the pivot bolt first!)

  • gabrams

Posted April 10, 2009 - 06:04 AM

#17

I also recommend the EBC (or other high end clutch) and friction plates. I've found cheaper clutches burn out quicker and you just end up redoing the job again.





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