Low Seat Options for an 07 WR?
Posted June 24, 2008 - 04:53 AM
Thanks for the help!
Posted June 24, 2008 - 11:06 AM
I have an 05, but the thinner seat is very uncomfortable in my opinion.
Posted June 24, 2008 - 12:18 PM
You can always raise the subframe mount holes with a rotary file or a rat tailed file if you are a poor person like me.Make them oval shape and it will lower the seat hight somewhat. Be carefull when you do this as you can inadvertantly cut the wires to your stoplight switch.(the voice of experience here)
Posted June 24, 2008 - 02:05 PM
Posted June 25, 2008 - 04:29 AM
Better check ebay first...
Posted June 25, 2008 - 05:13 AM
Posted June 25, 2008 - 02:05 PM
You don't lose suspension travel if the link has an increased leverage ratio. This allows the wheel to travel further into its arc which means you actually gain travel. An increase in leverage also means, that while you get a more plush ride on the choppy bone/teeth rattling terrain, your suspension moves through the stroke easier. After resetting sag, a great option for heavier or more aggressive riders is to turn in the high speed compression (the rear shock's big knob, not the flat blade screwdriver knob) about 1/8 turn and turn in the rebound 1 or 2 clicks.
Lowering links are not recommended for big jumpers or ditch bashers, or heavy riders who do not want to go to a heavier spring, but for a vast majority they are a great option. Let us know if you have more questions via PM or email. We've been known to help a few Australians touch the ground
I'm a little "vertically challenged" too (5'7") and have thought along the same lines.
They do make lowering links for the WR450F, but you lose suspension travel with them I'm told.
Posted June 27, 2008 - 05:51 AM
Posted June 27, 2008 - 04:59 PM
Posted June 27, 2008 - 06:36 PM
At 220, did you consider a stiffer spring to begin with even if you ran the stock link? That may negate some of the high speed compression you're putting in.
Understandably that adds cost and labor, and I like to keep things as simple as possible, but it could give your bike that added something extra to make the ride near perfect. Having said that, and what I wrote above, it sounds like you've made a major improvement and have a great understanding on what sort of fine tuning it'll take.
Your comment about "definitely not for the jumper" is true. Not at your weight. In fact, during testing we purposely tried breaking the YamaLink, the bike, the rider (ha) at different stages.
We had a 185 pound AA off-road racer beat the tar out of everything and he said he couldn't do any damage (sag was at 3.25, high speed turned in about 1/8, rebound slowed 2 clicks) so that was obviously good news. He reported an increase in traction and his speed increased dramatically through the rocks and teeth rattling chop.
BUT when we put on a 205 pound ex-mx semi pro and told him to pound some ditches, whoops and tabletops on a WR450F, he wasn't enjoying his ride. One issue was the knobby height hitting the fender. Yes, increased leverage made YOUR bike incredibly plush through the rocks and chop and braking/acceleration bumps, but on the other end of the spectrum it lets that wheel travel further and faster in its arc. And at some point, as with any product, concessions will be made: hence, lowering links that are more than 1 inch in change aren't recommended for heavier riders who have dreams about power shifting 5th right before entering a series of step-ups and waist high whoops and g-outs.
Good luck in your tuning, and please don't hesitate to email us with questions.
I just put one on. I am wiping the sweat away; from testing it, while I write this. First impressions, awesome height, just right. I might lose alittle clearance, but a skid plate is next on my order list. First of all, I am alittle heavy. I weigh about 220, I am 5/9ish with a 31 inseam. It was not a critical need for me, but I found a good deal so i felt like gambling. Plus, I ride my wifes ttr and have a blast on it because of the height and confidence it bestows. Anyway, I am still playing with settings, but I think I can get really close to what I deam acceptable handling. I actually increase highspeed comp alittle more than what the ordinary guy would because I am big. In order for me to get the wobble out of the rearend I had to increase the hs to the point that I am almost oversteering into corners, but like I said I am still playing with it. Def not for the jumper, light jumps are ok. I gonna skip all the boring stuff and get right to the cherry aspect of this mod. Rocks, undoubtedly the most complient shock ever. I went thru a rock section with my front end light and I didnt even feel it. Thats super for me because I am really anal about my bikes and when I feel all the jarring and bumping I slow down. Even though Yamalink didnt sell me this one, and even though this isnt a perfect world, he is the epitome of what service should be. Thanks for your help! Oh yeah, if enough of us have these things there should be a sticky about settings. My 2cents!
Posted June 27, 2008 - 08:07 PM
I put in a 220 pound rider without gear on trails with a standard size tank.
According to RT, the recommended rear shock spring rate is 5.63 kg/mm.
Stock shock spring rate is 5.3 kg/mm
I'm sure most of you know this, but you can play around with fork and shock rates at http://www.racetech..../searchdirt.asp
Plug in the make, model, year. It takes you to a somewhat confusing page. At the top in red you click "Custom Fork and Rear Shock Spring Calculation and Available Rates" and it gives a better idea. Be sure to check lbs or kg.
Posted June 28, 2008 - 07:39 AM