WR400 and The Road

11 replies to this topic

Posted December 02, 2002 - 09:20 AM


I think I would like to own one of these kick ass machines. I'll need to register it though so I can use it to get to work and Trail. Anyone use this bike for "Dual Purpose"? I'm looking for input.

Thanks a bunch!

  • EMARacing

Posted December 02, 2002 - 01:53 PM


1998 WR400

I have just converted mine to street legal and got it inspected and registered. TX has some pretty easy laws, so it was no problem at all.

I have the UFO blitz(?), the one with two halogen bulbs. Baja Designs has a new 3 position headlight switch with a kill button. Very slim and sleek. I wired it up so one bulb burns for low beam, and both burn for high. I left my stock kill switch, so I used the kill switch on the BD's for the horn button. Parts Unlimited has a generic 7mm horn for like $10 that I bolted to the back of the headlight.

I also got a BD rear hydraulic brake switch that I wired into the stock taillight. It's already a dual filimant and has an extra lead coming out of the socket. Super easy. I wired all 3 (headlight, taillight, and horn) into the main power supply to the BD 3 position switch. So when it's in the off position nothing will work. That way when I take everything off, switch it to off, and don't have power running to anything. I also connected everything with bullet quick disconnects and color coordinated so I can have it all off in about 10 mins. 4 headlight straps, and swap the rear fender, and presto your done.

Headlight $70
3 position switch $20
Horn $10
Brake light switch $15
Misc. wire and connectors $10
Acerbis rearview mirror $15
Total $140!
Beats any "kit" and is easily removed.

I have a rough schematic drawn out on paper that I can fax to anyone on how everything is wired. Sorry, I don't have the ability to scan it and post it here. Anyone else is welcome to though.

My next step is to upgrade the coil from an '01-'02 WR426. The '98 coil is pretty weak (80 watts?) and things can get pretty dark at night when braking into a corner and the revs fall. BD said it's not even worth having it rewound, just swap it for a newer one.

Hope this helps. :)

  • Team_Oatmeal_Pie

Posted December 02, 2002 - 04:11 PM


GWHayduke, what would E.A. say about you riding one of these "machines"??????

  • wnadrag

Posted December 02, 2002 - 06:17 PM


EMARacing, how did you wire up the headlight. I have the Baja Designs kit on my bike but I also have that UFO headlight and thought about wireing it like that. How did you get both lights on High beam and only one on low? I can only wire it to get one or the other. Unfortately I don't have a fax. I am hopeing it is something simple that I just didn't think of.

  • Talonboy

Posted December 02, 2002 - 06:31 PM


My WR has been street legal since mid 1998. I have had no problems whatsoever. With taller gearing the WR makes a decent street bike, is still excellent in the woods, and is fine for motocross work.

  • fastmonstr

Posted December 03, 2002 - 05:01 AM


Hey John, what happend to the Cannondale. It's good to see you riding blue!!

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  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted December 03, 2002 - 12:37 PM



I like the fact that you didn't go for a kit like I did a few years ago. I've been trying to convince people that's the way to go because it saves so much money and is probably of better quality. I spent over $400 on a BD kit and regretted it. I've replaced almost every component of it with stuff I've assembled myself, including the battery, handlebar switches, connectors and wire loom.

I also upgraded the stator to the newer year model for the higher output. I think it helps keep the lights bright at lower revs, but if you don't have a battery it won't make much of a difference. A friend of mine with a WR426 put a rectifier together for just a few bucks and got the same kind of small sealed lead acid battery that I'm using for less than $20. I'm sure you'll be much more satisfied with the low-rev brightness if you did too.

There's a little bit of work involved in doing this. You have to "float" the lighting coil ground at the stator (sounds scarier than it really is) and wire all the lights to come out of the battery but otherwise your existing wiring would work. I can give you more info about it if you want.

  • EMARacing

Posted December 03, 2002 - 03:31 PM


Wnadrag, here's how I did it.

On the BD switch I have there is a blue lead to the taillight which is a constant. It's "on" in the low and high switch position, but off when the switch is off. I used it to power the low beam side since it's a constant in both positions and the high beam lead to power the second bulb. I didn't use the green low beam lead at all.

Hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions.

  • EMARacing

Posted December 03, 2002 - 03:39 PM


I raced a YZ426 for two years before I bought the Cannondale and was very comforatable on it, so I decided to go back. I wanted something a little more versital than the YZ, so I found an ultra clean/ultra tricked out 98 WR.

It must have worked because I only spent about 30 mins on it before my first hs race with it and placed 2nd :) which was my best finish of the year.

  • EMARacing

Posted December 03, 2002 - 03:44 PM


Rich, more info would be terrific. Also I would like to pick you brain for any info you have about a small capacitor instead of a battery. I've found one from Parts Unlimited for about $40 retail, I'll get some more info on it tomorrow.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

  • wnadrag

Posted December 03, 2002 - 04:42 PM


EMARacing, That makes perfect sence. So simple, thanks alot

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted December 03, 2002 - 05:02 PM


If you're looking to save money, the SLA battery is cheaper (less than $20) and it fits nicely right inside the airbox. I've never known anyone who has been satisfied with one of those "battery eliminator" capacitors. The battery I'm using will keep the lights on for quite a while with the motor off. I don't know how much storage capacity one of those things have. I'm assuming that one benefit would be that the capacitor will work with AC current, while a battery requires the current to be rectified to DC. But, you can buy a 50A rectifier for less than 5 bucks so you're still coming out ahead on the price. If you do make your own rectifier, make sure you make or get a good heat sink to keep it from overheating. I'm lucky in that there's a huge electronics surplus store about 15 minutes from my house where all this stuff can be had cheap. I got the battery from Batteries Plus, but I found one online here.

I can give you more info later. Tell me what you need to know (my wife's calling me for dinner.)


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