Scotts Damper Problem HELP!

7 replies to this topic
  • TeamScream

Posted May 18, 2002 - 04:31 AM


I have a Scotts (bolt on) damper on my bike, and I am about ready to send it back, the problem I am having is with the tower/pin,(the part that bolts around the steering tube) it will not stay in place, it wont even stay in place for a short ride around the block with the damper set to low/medium damping, I have tried sanding the paint off the surface of the steering tube where the ring portion of the tower/pin clamps and it still comes loose...has anyone else had issues like this? what is the cure? I am calling Scotts today to see if they can help me....but would appreciate any help from the guys who actually use them. Thanks!

  • Bezore

Posted May 18, 2002 - 06:51 AM


sanding is not usually eneough. you also need to file or grind the area to get the proper fit. i had the same problem and now it works great. not all bikes got clean welds at the factory and all it takes is one small high spot to make the ring slip.

  • TeamScream

Posted May 18, 2002 - 02:03 PM


Yeah man you couldnt be more correct!
I had to take my Dremel with a small sanding disc to get the wel knocked down enough for it to fit, but I got it put back together and took it for a ride now it works perfect!

  • Moto-Mike

Posted May 18, 2002 - 04:36 PM


Also check that the tower is not hitting the upper triple clamp. Check this by turning the bars and look for contact between the tower (in the recessed area) and triple clamp...Even with the tower pefectly centered between the stops mine would hit so I had to take a rat-tail file to the triple clamp and carve slots where the contact was being made. The amount of steering sweep varies as some bikes have this problem while others do not.

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  • km98045

Posted May 18, 2002 - 04:43 PM


I had a 98 400 and the oil filler tube where the scott post mounted was smooth and thicker material than the 02 426 I just bought. My 02 426 has a lip on the top of the oil filler tube that is the right diameter for my old scott post so I had to add filler material on the lower portion of the oil filler tube to make it work right. Used JB weld. Else mine was coming loose all the time also. Now it works great.

  • SealClubber

Posted May 18, 2002 - 05:33 PM


Did you trim the headset seal? Mine was coming loose until I trimmed the Seal. The directions say how much to trim.
No problems now, even after multiple wipeouts.

  • TeamScream

Posted May 18, 2002 - 06:36 PM


Yes I did trim the seal, the deal was definately the weld slag on the head tube/frame joint, once that was gone the ring clamp slid down much farther and grips perfect now, the was evidenced by the fact that the tower pin now stuck up through the top of the sweep arm by 1/8 inch so it was clear the thing went down farther. It was strange because prior to grinding away the weld slag the ring clamp appeared to be fully seated, but looking at it now I can see that this is correct. Took a decent ride around town today and played with the settings on the damper and it did not come loose at would come loos after a 3 minute ride before the operation. Thanks alot for the help, also the guys at Scotts are great! and they are open Saturday! FANTASTIC customer service!

  • MX_Tuner

Posted May 19, 2002 - 04:57 PM


Some of you mentioned it hitting the triple clamp. One thing the directions are VERY specific of is making sure the steering stops are what actually stop the triple clamp swing and NOT the damper. This will damage the damper. If your steering stops are too short, you can weld a bead along the short edge and regrind it down as long as that still acts as the stop. Don't take this step lightly!


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