08 WR 450 Ground Float help

14 replies to this topic
  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 07, 2008 - 08:10 AM


I know that many of you have "floated your own ground" and I get the basic theory. I searched and found some pretty good pictures that show a step by step instruction on how to do it but the last picture that shows the connection to the "other" post didnt show which post to connect it to. Do you connect it to the post that hte yellow wire is soldered to? I just got a bajadesigns light set up and am anxious to get this to work. :thumbsup:

  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 07, 2008 - 10:56 AM


I pulled off the stator side and could use a little direction if anyone has any. A little different than the pictures I looked at....

  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 07, 2008 - 01:19 PM


I did the 05 yfz450 and the lighting one of the lights on the hid set flickers a bit. I am not sure if this is because the battery isnt at full charge but I am somewhat concerned. I connected the yellow wire on the stator to the wire that I disconnected in the winding as instructed on TT. Thats the minor issue really. I floated the ground on my day old 2008 wr450 and now it wont start, I would imagine that it is a spark issue as I just floated the ground. Kinda concerned about this one though. Anyone have any ideas?

  • tweav

Posted June 07, 2008 - 02:09 PM


did you swap out your rectifier with a bigger one . the stock one can't handle the whole stator. as far a instructions for the stator mod they are posted on baje designs web site on the main page under tech .

  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 07, 2008 - 02:45 PM


yup, swapped out the rectifier on the wr. The yfz runs fine but the wr has no spark. I floated the grounds the same. There must be something that I am missing. Even though the yfz runs well, I have yet to see if floating the ground actually worked. I mean... to see if it is putting out more wattage. As soon as I turn on the sick ass lights that BD sold me the voltage drops significantly in the battery and one light goes out. The battery is pretty new though. I think that I may have screwed up the whole floating process..

  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 07, 2008 - 06:49 PM


Thought that I would pass on my mistakes....I guess there have probably bee a couple made that I benefited from in the past. If you try to float a ground make sure that you "scrape" the outside of the wires before you sauder them. If you dont then you will have little or no contact and the bike will either not start of push little power. Really, the estimated 100-120 watts that they say your bike will have after you float the ground is only as good as the connection that you made and the amount of resistence present. Thought I would stop being a lurker and join the club. Thanks for all the valuable knowledge imparted on me over the last year or so...I look forward to helping as I have been helped. :thumbsup:

  • tweav

Posted June 08, 2008 - 01:15 AM


I'd say you did some thing wrong on the wr . Are you sure you hooked the output wires of your stator to the right wires ? if you did the stock headlight wires should not work. Oh and by the way a yfz stator is barely big enough to run a hid even when modded . I think the that stator is only rated for 50 watts . modded like 70 maybe . the wr's stator modded are only good for a little over 100 watts .

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Posted June 08, 2008 - 03:41 PM


Not sure what wattage draw you have from your lights, but should not try and light them both at once. They should be on separate switches as it will likely be too much draw all at once. Once the first light is completely fired up (maybe 30 seconds or so) then try to switch on the other. The power requirement of HID lights drops as they warm up.

  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 08, 2008 - 04:47 PM


Thanks for all the advice. The yfz 450 was flickering a bit because the battery was so low. I started it, reved it for a bit, then turned on both of the lights and the flickering went away. I modded both stators incorrectly as I didnt scrape the wire before connecting them. After scraping the wire, everything works fine. After I modded the wr, the stock light still worked. Does that mean that I didnt do it right?

  • tweav

Posted June 08, 2008 - 06:13 PM


I don't think the stock light should work after modding the stator on a wr . I'm not 100% sure but , I think when it's done right the stock head light wire should be dead unless it comes on as soon as you hit the power button . I don't have my wiring diagram right now so I can't tell you for sure . I do know it's best crimp the wires and solder them too , when modding the stator . I'll look at the wiring when I get home inthe morning

  • tweav

Posted June 08, 2008 - 10:04 PM


I got on baja's site and verified that to stock headlight should not work it right in the second paragraph

’03-on WR stators are wound with two separate coil outputs from the factory.
One output charges the battery for the electric-start and the other output powers
the stock lighting via its own AC circuit (no battery backup.) In stock form the
battery cannot be used to power any lighting without becoming discharged. This
modification joins the two existing stator outputs together into one and is
necessary anytime the stock battery will be used to power a lighting system
(such as a dual sport or HID system.) Once the stator has been modified, the
stock rectifier/regulator must be replaced with a Baja Designs unit and the
lighting system must be powered via DC from the battery. The stock
headlight connector can no longer be used as a lighting power source.
Failure to replace the rectifier/regulator or using the stock headlight
connector will result in the battery discharging.

  • jim-in-so-ore

Posted June 09, 2008 - 05:11 AM


If you guys had bought a Trick Dualsport Kit you wouldn't be doing any of this monkey-motion, as it is not needed on a GOOD dualsport kit.:thumbsup:

  • tweav

Posted June 09, 2008 - 12:32 PM


I built my kit I did not buy it , I rewired the whole bike myself . I did the 40 buck stator mod also ,because I planned on riding in the dark alot . I run a stock headlight on my bike with a 50 watt bulb ,and it's is much brighter then most peoples street bikes I ride with. here's a few pics of my heep . How did yours turn out?

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  • dougEfresh223

Posted June 10, 2008 - 02:06 AM


Nice ride there...good to see some wr's as I am trying to by some grahics for my own. i just finished doing that AIS kit on the wr, what a pain in the ass. takes alot more than the 2 hours that it said. As for the lights...they are bright as the sun...I am VERY happy with both the yfz and the wr. I figured the lights out...I think. I still have to put a meter on the battery to see what I am putting out. I am really excited to ride my bike....havent had a chance yet. I think the speedo says that it has a mile on it. Oh, I like you stabilizer...I have been looking at those. Is that a scott?

  • dougEfresh223

Posted August 10, 2008 - 12:29 PM


Just a little update on the YFZ/WR stator thread. I took the YFZ out and the battery was dead in about an hour. I barely got home. I was driving and lost my lights then the bike started running like crap. I am assuming it was because the battery was dead. When I want lights, I call baja designs.....When I want power, I call Ricky stator. So, I called Ricky Stator. They told me that, even with the stator "floated", the yfz still wont put out enough power to run the lights and charge the battery. After the 130 raw watts of power is converted to DC and sent to the battey, you have about 50 watts that you can pull and still charge the battery. This is kinda hard when you are running a 25 watt fan and ONe single 30 watt headlight. This is just one headlight....NOT two. I may be a little off repeating these numbers but the main point is that, before you add $1000 of baja designs lights, upgrade your stator or you will have problems. I wish they would have told me. I wouldnt have minded getting a new stator. All baja designs told me was that Ricky stator was wrong and that the stator should power the lights no problem. They informed me that many of their customers power 110watts of lights with this particular stator modification. So, whats the real deal? Anyone know? I dont want someone else installing these lights with the expectation that they will work with a stock stator if they wont.


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