Race Tech spring calculator is off on the WR.


7 replies to this topic
  • TWILES

Posted June 03, 2008 - 04:55 PM

#1

I weigh between 235 and 240. I bought the 5.8 rear spring. Thats what the calculator said I needed. I get it on and start cranking on it. I have no static sag at all and have 3.5 inches ride-sag in shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops. I got home and investigated and noticed that is says I need a 5.9-something if I had a YZ but a 5.79 on the WR thats heavier than the YZ. This was with me checking trail/enduro/desert. If I had clicked MX, it would have told me to get a 6.0. I'm not bashing Race-Tech by no means. Just a little info for anyone using that site as a referance(who's new to this like me). I didn't change the fork springs today because my oil didn't show up but just the rear makes a world of difference. What I want to get at is that if your weight is on the verge or you just like to jump a little, go for the next spring up. My 2005 doesn't plant the front tire all that great in the first place and the lower the rear end, the worse it turns. So, back on the diet for me again.

  • SXP

Posted June 03, 2008 - 05:26 PM

#2

I weigh between 235 and 240. I bought the 5.8 rear spring. Thats what the calculator said I needed. I get it on and start cranking on it. I have no static sag at all and have 3.5 inches ride-sag in shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops. I got home and investigated and noticed that is says I need a 5.9-something if I had a YZ but a 5.79 on the WR thats heavier than the YZ. This was with me checking trail/enduro/desert. If I had clicked MX, it would have told me to get a 6.0. I'm not bashing Race-Tech by no means. Just a little info for anyone using that site as a referance(who's new to this like me). I didn't change the fork springs today because my oil didn't show up but just the rear makes a world of difference. What I want to get at is that if your weight is on the verge or you just like to jump a little, go for the next spring up. My 2005 doesn't plant the front tire all that great in the first place and the lower the rear end, the worse it turns. So, back on the diet for me again.



Make sure you are STANDING on the pegs, more-or-less centered over the bike. THEN measure the sag. If you are sitting, then your weight is biased toward the rear giving an incorrect reading. BTW, even a 6.0 will appear too soft (i.e., you have to dial in too much preload to get the proper sag) if you measure the sag while sitting. This problem is exacerbated for tall, heavy people (like me) as your normal sitting position naturally pushes you further back on the seat biasing your weight rearward. A smaller person can get away with sitting as their normal sitting position is closer to being centered over the bike.

  • dazzabb

Posted June 03, 2008 - 05:30 PM

#3

I dunno if the calculator is off, it's just that every bike is different, has different wear on the components etc. My 05 felt like a sack of shit until it was re-valved, when i found out the bushes in the forks were worn.

Same as the jetting specs are often different for each bike in similar conditions.

I actually found that the calculator had the spring weight much too hard for my style I installed 0.40 springs up front when for my weight it should have been a 0.44, but the 0.44 was way-off. Now with the 0.4 its superb.....

  • tweav

Posted June 03, 2008 - 08:23 PM

#4

Think race tech figures are made with their gold valves . that tends to be about 1 rate too soft for stock valving.

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  • TWILES

Posted June 04, 2008 - 08:18 AM

#5

Think race tech figures are made with their gold valves . that tends to be about 1 rate too soft for stock valving.


With that said, I'm planning on getting the suspension valved next year. I'm still learing so I thought I'd start here. I bought Factory Connection springs and in Parts Unlimited they are the same as the 05 YZ, front and back. Race Tech apparently uses a different fork spring for the WR than Factory Connection. Would they still redo the forks like that or would Factory Connection have to do it?

  • Rudy

Posted August 14, 2008 - 02:12 PM

#6

What bike do you have? I have an '02 WR250F and use .48 front with some valving changes, stock shock valving with 5.6 spring. I tried a 5.4 on my bike and it was in the ball park and felt good on little stuff, but preload was max. I am running my forks down in the clamps even with the bottom of the cap bolts, and the rear sag at about 105 or so. Static sag comes in about 20to 25mm or so. I'd like to try a 5.5 spring but haven't found a lender. My bike works better in the trails with lost of stuff on the bike so I may be sprung a bit higher than I should be--but I carry lots of stuff. I rode the MCCCT a couple of years ago and had about 15# on the PMB rack, plus 20# on my back, and some more stuff up front and it all worked fine. I weigh 230# bare naked. Suspension set up by Lowe Susupension.

  • Demo_Slug

Posted August 14, 2008 - 03:35 PM

#7

I weigh between 235 and 240. I bought the 5.8 rear spring. Thats what the calculator said I needed. I get it on and start cranking on it. I have no static sag at all and have 3.5 inches ride-sag in shorts, a t-shirt, and flip-flops.


I'm 235 and have the 5.8 spring.... but I run 4 inches of sag. most set up instruction I've seen say rider sag is 90mm to 110mm (3.5'' to 4.3"). .

in my very limited experience, the bike will ride very harsh if you don't make enough bike sag. So I pretty much just set up bike sag to 1 inch and lived with where the rider sag was. if its in the window then cool. if not its, time to lose weight or get a new spring.

and in regards to the YZ, I think it has a different leverage ratio.

  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted August 15, 2008 - 01:22 AM

#8

That spring isn't that far off if any.

Besides, the race tech springs soften up a lot once they are broken in. Find some whoops, spend an hour hitting them hard.

Then adjust your sag again. That spring will settle a lot.




 
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