WR to YZ results:



8 replies to this topic
  • tk421

Posted May 16, 2002 - 12:07 PM

#1

Got the Yz timing and carb changes done theses past 2 days. Ran the bike up and down our street today. Noticed no change. There was no backfiring on deceleration. Bogs off idle if wicked hard (same as before, but no big deal.) The engine idle sounded different, not so much the speed but the sound. Seemed to idle down faster too.

Also first, second, and third gear wheelies felt the same. Third gear wheel pop wasn’t there unless you tugged on the bars (same as before)

The needle profiles looked identical. For a minute I thought it was the same needle until I looked at the tip. There is a noticeable size difference in the diameter between the stock DQR and the stock EJP. The EJP is noticeably thinner. I’m running in the 4th clip.

Thankfully the YZ timing went fairly good, I’m no mechanic. Lined up the I to the tics on the magneto, cable tied the intake gear to the chain and sharpy marked both wheels to the chain. Removed the chain tensioner and cam caps (both exhaust and intake), then rotated the exhaust gear one tooth clockwise. Went from 13 to 12 pins no problem. Only trouble I had was the intake bearing retainer fell part way into the engine and had to be fished out. I found out even if you are careful it can still happen! The retainers actually pop up by themselves just sitting on the bearing before the caps are placed on them. Anyway, I got it put back together, the engine still runs quiet with no strange new noises.

Should I try a bigger main jet? I have my stock 165 right now and a 45 pilot jet right now. The pilot jet is out one turn.

Maybe I’m their now. I’m tempted to take to take and have it dyno tested to just see where it’s at.

Maybe the powers there (say 45-50hp), but the way it gets there is disappointing. :)

The accelerator pump (BK mod) has about .5-1 second. The airbox lid and exhaust plug are both removed.

How can I get more of a HIT out of the power?

Thanks in advance.

tk

  • Mark_Cantrell

Posted May 16, 2002 - 04:41 PM

#2

The way to get more hit is to lean out the top end. In fact, your pilot and main are way too big. I am not familiar with your needle and would recommend you look at Taffy's recent posts. The DMM and EMM have changed for a middle clip position, but other than that, its still just like in Jetting Qs.

The extra gas is killing your acceleration after the 1/2 way point.

Good luck,
mwc

  • tk421

Posted May 16, 2002 - 04:53 PM

#3

Thanks Mark.
That’s interesting. I keep thinking I need to go richer. Perhaps your right.
tk

  • SoCalWR426

Posted May 16, 2002 - 05:15 PM

#4

Woa-there big fella,
Try it 1st! you might be surprised to find your very close.. IMHO.....

SoCal

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  • tk421

Posted May 16, 2002 - 05:45 PM

#5

Sunday I actually have off and plan to do some serious riding. :) :D :D

I admit just taking just taking a quick pass down one block and back in NOT a fair test.

I WAS disappointed not to see the front wheel shoot skyward from second to third.

I’ll let you all know how Sunday goes.

tk

  • SoCalWR426

Posted May 16, 2002 - 06:23 PM

#6

Tk,
I don't know what you got going on.. My bike and others I've done all ROOST!.. My bike as well as others you have to keep the front end down! 2nd and 3rd whip the front end up, 4th a slight pull up, 5th you have-ta yank or clutch it!..

Socal

  • blue_beast_wins

Posted May 16, 2002 - 09:30 PM

#7

Get rid of the dqr and get an e series needle clip #3 and get a 158mj !!!

[ May 17, 2002: Message edited by: blue beast wins ]

  • Taffy

Posted May 16, 2002 - 09:45 PM

#8

please tell me i have had nothing to do with your jetting.

if you were a cat looking for a home i'd run past your cage!

but as usual all good TT members will try and rescue you from yourself!

i suggest you start the bike up and rev the nuts off it on the stand in your bedroom. this will give you a clear indication of how it's running and give you something to suck on while you sleep.

you could also try going to the woods and trying it there. just a crazy idea i know.

also which century did you get your jetting from? my hunch is that it's a piece of fine bozantine 18th century work. a classic of it's time and if one looks closely at the work one can see early influences of mason, dean and van gogh. the work is easily dated by the ancient P needle that was once used at sea level and a mock tudor pilot jet which was only used for a short period and so the work can be dated to about 1760-1780.

the ancient 45PJ is a clear giveaway.

am i right tk?

by the way you know how names have conotations that you never thought of well the irish would just love your sense of humour :) :D :D

try 158MJ. try a 40PJ. and put your whole jetting numbers up every time because i like others shouldn't and won't be expected to trapse all over the website trying to remember the model and pipe etc.

good luck

Taffy

  • WRFUN

Posted May 17, 2002 - 11:06 AM

#9

After doing the YZ timing MOD I too did not notice a big difference until I started working with Taffy and JD on my jetting. I have started working with Taffy's suggestions, but due to the flooding in the midwest I have not finished my testing, but once I started I could not believe the power that started to come alive. Go for it, you will not be disappointed. I would not change back for anything.

Pete :)




 
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