weep hole leak


17 replies to this topic
  • teamdooracer

Posted May 26, 2008 - 12:15 PM

#1

Well coolant started leaking out of my weep hole today so what do I all need. I'm thinking I need the waterpump seal, oil seal, and gaskets. Also what brand of seals would you guys recommend.

  • Honda_Racer19

Posted May 26, 2008 - 02:32 PM

#2

Yeah all you need is the 2 seals and the gasket. I recommend the OEM seals. They are cheap and your dealer may have them there in stock. Mine did.

  • wwoberg

Posted May 26, 2008 - 03:06 PM

#3

Mine leaked too. Then stopped. I'd wait a little while. I do use a little coolant but nothing worth messing with.

  • teamdooracer

Posted May 26, 2008 - 03:39 PM

#4

In order to do the oil seal, I have to remove the right side crankcase cover correct? Also wwoberg, my seal is leaking way to bad to just let it be or stop.

  • Honda_Racer19

Posted May 26, 2008 - 07:22 PM

#5

Yes you need to drain your clutch oil and remove that clutch side case. It took me about 45min to an hour to do it. I like to take my time when doing this stuff. Be sure to note when removing the seals which way they face for install of the new ones. I used a socket the same size as the seal to tap in as not to damage the seal.

  • jratcliffe3

Posted May 27, 2008 - 12:33 AM

#6

Yes you need to drain your clutch oil and remove that clutch side case. It took me about 45min to an hour to do it. I like to take my time when doing this stuff. Be sure to note when removing the seals which way they face for install of the new ones. I used a socket the same size as the seal to tap in as not to damage the seal.


If it's fresh oil, you can keep it by laying the bike down on its left side, this will let you remove the rhs cover without the oil coming out.

  • Honda_Racer19

Posted May 27, 2008 - 08:35 PM

#7

If it's fresh oil, you can keep it by laying the bike down on its left side, this will let you remove the rhs cover without the oil coming out.


True but this would be hard because you need to drain the radiator fluid. So there is a really good chance of getting water in there.

Now he could also drain the oil the regular way but funnel it into an oil can or something to hold it.

  • jratcliffe3

Posted May 28, 2008 - 03:41 AM

#8

True but this would be hard because you need to drain the radiator fluid. So there is a really good chance of getting water in there.

Now he could also drain the oil the regular way but funnel it into an oil can or something to hold it.


Ah, I didn't explain well enough. You can take the pump cover off and blow the water out with the bike on its stand, then lay the bike over to take the rhs cover off. This will stop you getting water in too.

  • Honda_Racer19

Posted May 28, 2008 - 03:04 PM

#9

Ah, I didn't explain well enough. You can take the pump cover off and blow the water out with the bike on its stand, then lay the bike over to take the rhs cover off. This will stop you getting water in too.


Thats just wasted energy.

Just do it thte right way and drrain the oil and water fix the seal then replace the oil/coolant

  • kevin_c

Posted May 31, 2008 - 07:37 PM

#10

i would replace the shaft as well, mine was shot when my seals went out, i think i replaced a bearing as well, it was a while ago so i dont remember all the details but it seems to be a common problem.

  • whighty450rider

Posted June 01, 2008 - 06:44 AM

#11

i agree with kevin c. When mine went out I just redid the whole water pump because I didnt want to do it again for a long time. do the shaft, bearing(s), seals, and the gasket.

  • teamdooracer

Posted June 02, 2008 - 05:25 AM

#12

I just did the seals because thats all I could get. I raced this last weekend and no dealers had the bearing or shaft. Heck, they didn't even have the crankcase cover gasket. I had to use gasket maker just so I could race it this last weekend.

  • zac949

Posted June 02, 2008 - 05:46 AM

#13

So there are many threads going back and forth on this issue from the threads i searched. if it drips from the water pump only upon startup, can you just replace the waterpump seal? i just pick up a low hour 05 yesterday and noticed a couple drips.oil did not appear contaminated.
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  • Honda_Racer19

Posted June 02, 2008 - 04:39 PM

#14

So there are many threads going back and forth on this issue from the threads i searched. if it drips from the water pump only upon startup, can you just replace the waterpump seal? i just pick up a low hour 05 yesterday and noticed a couple drips.oil did not appear contaminated.
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Nice looking bike :thumbsup:

  • GhostFace

Posted June 03, 2008 - 01:15 PM

#15

CRF 450 R 2006.

WATER PUMP LEAKAGE AND BALANCER SHAFT BEARING SERVICE.

PLEASE READ IN FULL BEFORE STARTING.

I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOU TRASHING YOUR ENGINE; THIS IS JUST THE WAY I DID IT.

When I got my 2006 CRF450R the water pump was leaking coolant out of the weep hole underneath. I was aware of this as the previous owner has done the seal twice before but hadn’t solved the problem. I assumed it was the water pump bearing worn out, making the water pump shaft vibrate and blow the seal. Upon closer inspection I discovered the balancer shaft which drives the water pump was moving about on its bearing, thus calling for bearing replacement. I’m a bit of a novice mechanic but fancied having a go because I hate paying shop labour prices, this is a step by step guide to what I’ve done to replace my balancer shaft bearings and stop the leak once and for all.

1. Drain the coolant via the drain bolt at the base of the water pump cover.
2. Drain the transmission oil.
3. Remove the rear brake pedal and kick start.
4. Remove radiator hose at the top of the water pump cover.
5. Remove water pump cover.
6. Remove the complete right side casing, including the clutch cover.
7. You now have a casing in your hand with the water pump shaft, impeller, two seals and the bearing still in place.

Now to service the water pump, gently hold the rear of the shaft with a pair of grips and remove the impeller with an 8mm socket, remove the impeller and the small washer. Now would be an ideal time to do the impeller modification if your bike is 05 or older, another story. Remove the water pump shaft and inspect for ware, any groves in the shaft, then replace it. Seal removal and bearing removal is a fine art and there are lots of ways to do it, I will just say how I did it but it’s up to you to do it your way. I removed the front seal by gently tapping from the rear with a flat blade screw driver, the rear seal sits behind the bearing so I made an improvised bearing puller using a bolt, 2 nuts and a washer behind the seal with pulled out the bearing and seal together. To reassembly, the seals go in first, with the recessed side facing away from the casing, then the bearing, presses in the same way as removal but obviously reversed, lightly grease the inner lips of the seal before inserting the shaft to stop friction burn on initial fire up, mine came ready greased from Honda. Then re-fit the impeller onto the shaft, not forgetting the little washer. The waster pump is now rebuilt and the casing could be fitted back onto the engine, not forgetting the new gasket. I also did the kick start shaft seal as it was easy and cheap to do.

Now is the time to decide if you need to replace your balancer shaft bearings, you will see your clutch and two gears side by side, the one nearest the front of the engine is attached to the balancer shaft, if you hold the balancer gear and move it in a circular motion looking for free play up and down, side to side. Any movement is wear, with new bearings it will not move at all. If you have any ware, replace them now as you will have wasted your time doing the water pump.

Drain your engine oil, remove the left side engine casing, at the front of the engine you will see the other side of the balance shaft above the nylon gear that drives the oil pump, chances are that the left side bearing will be ok but I done mine anyway because I’m not tempting fate one I have it apart.

This bit is very important, the balance shaft and gears are designed to stop the engine shaking itself to bits due to single cylinder vibration, the gears on the end of the shaft are weighted on one side, these need to go back into the same position that that were removed from or the whole thing will be out of balance. I dried the oil of the gear on each side and marked the tooth with the corresponding one on the gear next to it, also do the nylon gear for the left side, I used simple white stationary correction fluid.

If you are going to do the balance shaft bearings, put them in the freezer now so later they will be slightly smaller and easier to insert later.

To remove the balance shaft first you need to remove the weird shaped nut on the right end of the shaft, I had a special socket made but it didn’t arrive in time so I simply tapped it around with a flat screwdriver and hammer, I didn’t even need to lock the gear, remove the balance gear and washer, now pull the shaft out from the left side, the shaft sits in an enclosed tunnel and nothing will fall into the engine casings.
You now have a hole right through the front of your engine, on the right side, remove the two bolts and fixing plates, I removed the bearing by gentle tapping with a long large screw driver inserted from the left side. The right side has an oil seal, a circlip then the bearing, gently prise out the oil seal with a flat screw driver and remove the circlip, I removed the left side bearing by hitting with a socket on an extension bar inserted from the right side, you can only get to about 2/3rds of the bearing so be wise with your choice of socket.

Remember, if like me you attempt this with your bike on a jack up stand you will get nowhere as the force is transferred into moving the bike off the stand, I leaned mine against a wall, leaning on the handle bar.

Remove the bearings from the freezer and drive them into place with a relevant sized socket and large hammer (at own risk), roller on the left and race bearing on the right, replace the circlip and then the oil seal on the right and the two plates and bolt on the left. Now insert the balance shaft from the left side, and align the teeth with the corresponding white markings on the nylon gear, Get some one to hold the gear in place because it is weighted and will rotate out of line if you let it.
On the right side align the balance gear with the white markings on the gear next to it and push into place, refit the washer and weird shaped nut. Refit casings, rear brake and kick start, oil and coolant.

Remember, I will not be held responsible for anything that goes wrong; this is just the way I did it.




The parts I used were,

Left and right engine casing casket.
Kick start shaft oil seal.
Water pump oil seal.
Water pump water seal.
Water pump bearing.
Balancer shaft oil seal.
Balancer shaft race bearing.
Balancer Shaft roller bearing.

Have a beer, job done.

  • Krimnal

Posted July 08, 2008 - 06:06 PM

#16

first of all this is the first time i've ever posted anything on any fourm ever so
forgive any mistakes. back to the subject i changed both seals, shaft, the two bearings on the right side but i did'nt do anything to the left side and the weep hole is still leaking and it is also making little racket like gear noise. so if you think if i tear it down again and change the bearing on the left side i'll be alright? thx

  • dirtheadz

Posted July 13, 2008 - 12:42 PM

#17

in the same boat, I replaced both inner and outter seals have about 16 miles on it and now leaking out the weep hole again. What the deal. I know thier are different part numbers for inner and outter, I installed per dealer break down. Why should orintation matter, a lip seal is a lip seal?

  • Eddie8v

Posted July 13, 2008 - 01:13 PM

#18

If you put either the water pump seal or oil seal in backwards, the backwards one will leak. Those seals are both "directional" seals, sealing with pressure assist of the fluid that they are containing. The cooling system seal will leak right away due to the cooling system pressure whereas the oil system isn't pressurized but will still leak a slight bit due to the slight pressure delta across the seal. If this sort of seal is installed backwards in a pressurized system, the system pressure will force the ssytem fluid right through them, it's just a function of their design. They are installed "backwards" from what logic will tell you when you look at them; you are keeping the cooling fluid on the right side of the water pump seal vs the left hand side, so the "flat" of the seal goes to the left on the water pump seal and vice versa on the oil seal. Most of the time, the flat faces outward and you tap the flat side to press the seal in. Installation is backwards for these seals and it is easy to make the mistake!!! The good news is you only make the mistake once.

You can sort of tell which way to install the water pump seal (and the oil seal) from this fiche pix:

http://www.ridemsc.c...name=WATER PUMP

#9 is the water pump seal
#8 is the oil seal





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