Why do u not lap titanium valves?? what makes them so special??? I dont care what valve it is, if it is not lapped to the seat it cannot seal properly??
Ne way, yeah, a grand will probably get you back underway. One other MAJOR thing u need to do, is find all the metal that is missing!!! All the slivers and chunks, they are in the crank case, or on top, my motor when this happend, had a hole in the piston where the valve stem whent through it, i found the piece that made the hole in the bottom of the crankcase.
Like i have said many times already, INSPECT-CLEAN-INSPECT-CLEAN-INSPECT AGAIN.
Just to kinda give you a suggestion as to what could have been your cause of failure. My 450 blew the head gasket first! After thinking about it a while, thats what caused the valve to drop. The steam that was being created made it much hotter and just torched the tulip off. I never asked it was an intake or exhaust valve that failed. It was an exhaust valve could be runnin a little lean, a little lean and on the gas hard will build one hellofa fire in the cylinder creating some mean heat, and enescence causing the torch effect i mentioned that will just slice that bad boy off right at the stem.
ONE OTHER Thing lol. Sorry, i just feel like i need to spill my beans on what i know bout this.
The reason i wouldnt consider a rebuild HEAD is this. The heat that is created in this part of the engine is rediculous. If there are pieces welded in or melted back in to fill holes and so forth, IN MY OPINION could get hot enough to fall out, one other thing with it too, is ne sharp edge sticking out will get really hot, like a spark plug tip, it will cause detonation, like running cheap gas. Basically PRE LIGHTING the fire.
ALL OF ABOVE IS MY OPINION/EXPERIENCE, WITH THIS ISSUE, PLEASE DO NOT THROW STONES!!!
No stones. Whether I can use it or not, I appreciate any real world experience on this particular issue
Other than the few indentations from the broken valve, the top of the piston looks good. Not a whole lot of material missing. I believe everything was contained to the area above it and I have completely removed all affected parts.
The valve that broke was the right intake. I am no jetting expert by any stretch of the imagination, but as far as I could tell it was jetted pretty well. Stock jetting here in Florida always seems to work pretty well. A couple quarter turns in or out with the fuel screw, depending on how hot it was that day, always seemed to make it run perfectly. The head gasket is still in great shape as well.
Without doing any research yet, I am assuming that 'lapping' valves simply means to shape them a bit to seal tight in the valve seat, no? If no lapping is required, am I to assume that any OEM
Ti valve will seal perfectly into any new OEM
head? And if this is only true for Ti valves, what if I went with some after market stainless valves? would they then need to be 'lapped'? If so, how does one go about lapping valves?
I tend to agree with you on the head rebuild, but I am going to look into it any how. If someone who knows more about the process can explain to me just how it's done and I am comfortable with it, I'll do it, so long as the savings are there. I certainly wouldn't prefer a rebuild dollar for dollar.
Again, thanks to all for shedding some light on this deal. I have already learned a great deal, and after all is said and done I am sure I will be all the more wiser (and much lighter in the wallet).