crf250r feedback and questions.


9 replies to this topic
  • falkon

Posted May 17, 2008 - 08:08 PM

#1

I know there are tons of things about valves and changes/tuning ect. But i have searched the forums and was not succesful. I havnt been riding for the past 2 years and I need some help. I really dont want people posting saying "crf250r ROCKS!! they are awsome!"

I have a few questions.
1. Can i get some feedback on how easy the valves are to adjust/tune?
2. can i get feedback on how easy crf250r's are to work on?
3. How often do you have to adjust the valves, does it vary with what year you get? ex. 04 every 15 hours, 06 every 45 hours.
4. What is the average cost the valves done at the shop, and how about replacing the valves, how much does that cost at the shop?
5. How many times can the valves be adjusted before they need to be replaced?

My last bike was a yz85, sence then i have grown and now am 6 foot even. I know some of these questions have been awnsered, and i did read the valve stickey. I know how annoying it is on forums new members askign questions that have been asked 1000 times.

Also, I need feedback on how often this bike breaks.because I will be doing the mataniece <sp? not my father. 2 Strokes are much easyer to work on.

Also I have a few questions when looking for a used bike.
1. What should i look for that is wrong? stress marks on the frame?
2. What should i look for?
3. How can i tell how much life is left on the valves/engine?

  • xxxjay01

Posted May 17, 2008 - 11:26 PM

#2

well i have a 04 crf250r and i have only done the valves once and they were done in a shop for AU$80. as for life in the valves i just ride mine untill it doesnt kick over and wen that happens i just clutch start it. as for matienence i just keep the air filter clean and oil clean and thats it

  • hyperawg

Posted May 18, 2008 - 02:03 AM

#3

I recently bought an 08 250R and so far i have nothing to complain about. :thumbsup: The bike is very easy to work on and the owners manual that comes with it explains step by step how most basic maintenance( including measuring valve clearence and reshimming) is done and how often it should be checked.
Buy a workshop manual if you dont get one with the bike and make sure you have the right tools for the job, if in doubt ask for help/advise on the TT forums or take your bike to a shop and have someone in the know do the work for you.

a few things i do when looking at used bikes:

*stand directly behind the bike and see if it looks twisted.
*see if rear suspension has sag or play.
*check the tires, brakes, chain and sprokets for excessive wear.
*with 2 strokes i used to give the kickstarter a few goes to see how much compression was there but im not sure how well this works with modern 4 strokes?
*start it up and see how it sounds.
*if the owner will let me, take it for a small test drive and run up/down the gears.
* always ask questions.. if you want to know about its engine ask when it was last worked on/rebuilt and what was done.
If the owner cant really tell you about the bikes maintenance it might be a sign that they didnt maintain it well and that will mean more time in the garage and less time riding for you.

hope some of my ramblings help.

  • Honda_250f_rider

Posted May 18, 2008 - 07:06 AM

#4

1. Can i get some feedback on how easy the valves are to adjust/tune?
[COLOR="Red"]Easy to adjust and check. Takes 15 min to check, and probably 45 min to an hour to adjust. Just follow the manual[/COLOR]
2. can i get feedback on how easy crf250r's are to work on?
[COLOR="Red"]They are easy to work on, I think. 1 cam and 4 valves, can't get much simpler than that.[/COLOR]
3. How often do you have to adjust the valves, does it vary with what year you get? ex. 04 every 15 hours, 06 every 45 hours.
[COLOR="Red"]Check valves after break in if the bike is new. Other than that, I would do it every 30 or so hours[/COLOR]
4. What is the average cost the valves done at the shop, and how about replacing the valves, how much does that cost at the shop?
[COLOR="Red"]To adjust them a shop will charge an average of $75. Much more worthwhile to do it yourself. Replacing them entails of sending the head out, getting the guides checked, and seats cut. Then putting in new valve seals, valves, springs, and cotters. This will cost $65 or so for the seat cutting. And $175 for a good intake valve kit (faction MX Stainless), and then Maybe another $100 for OEM exhaust components and all 4 seals[/COLOR]
5. How many times can the valves be adjusted before they need to be replaced?
[COLOR="Red"]Technically once right after the valves seat in after break in. Then they shouldn't move after that. When they start moving again, they are on their way out and you will only get a couple of rides, if that after an adjustment. So once your valve "zero's" out/looses its clearance you need a valve job.[/COLOR]

I have 45 hrs on my 08 on the meter now. replaced the OEM piston at 38.1 hrs with my JE high comp piston. I adjusted the valves right after break in, and they haven't moved since them the last time I checked them.

For your bike to last, maintenance is critical. You should be changing both oils after every ride/1-2 hrs/one tank of gas. The oil filter after every 10 hrs, the airfilter after every dusty ride, filterskins helps extend this interval.

Changing fork/shock oil every 20-25 hrs for best performance of susp parts and life of them. Do not go over double that number though.

Pistons, change out the OEM at 30-40 hrs, they don't last as long as aftermarket ones. Like for example a JE piston, they are a different aluminum alloy, you can go to your 30 or so hrs, measure the outside diameter of the piston skirt at the smallest place, and if its above spec, which it will be, re ring to restore performance and ride again. My OEM piston was below the service limit at 38.1 hrs on the meter when I measured the smallest place on the piston skirt. I will measure my JE when I re-ring at 30 hrs.

regrease the suspension linkage, swing arm, steering head, etc. Once or twice a year depending on how much you ride.

  • hyperawg

Posted May 18, 2008 - 09:32 PM

#5

good post 250f_rider, i recently measured valve clearances after the initial break in and the intakes were fine but the exhaust clearances where a bit tight, i got the smallest feeler gage within spec to fit but it seemed a bit tight. should i re-shim the exhaust valves?

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  • Honda_250f_rider

Posted May 18, 2008 - 10:11 PM

#6

It is safe to run the exhaust valve clearances as tight as .008"

I run mine right in the middle of the spec .011" because the 08 is already hard enough to start at times.

When you check the valves you should have a slight resistance on the feeler gauges, you should not be forcing them in.

  • hyperawg

Posted May 19, 2008 - 12:18 AM

#7

heh yeah the 08 can be hard to start sometimes, i guess my ex valves being tight doesnt help matters either.

I may get a shim kit and fix them up so they are 0.011"/0.28mm, hopefully after that they wont move for awhile.

  • falkon

Posted May 19, 2008 - 09:25 AM

#8

How much do shim kits cost? 20 dollars or so?

  • Honda_250f_rider

Posted May 19, 2008 - 09:32 AM

#9

Hotcams valve shim kits are around $80, can be seen for around $60 on ebay. You get 3 of every shim from 1.20mm all of the way up to 3.xmm. It works out to roughly $0.60 cents a shim. versus about $7-10 a shim at the dealership.

  • joe1118

Posted May 19, 2008 - 02:59 PM

#10

I just take my measurements and the old shims to the local service guy and he trades me for the ones I need.





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